93 S13 Hatch Purchase

[shazzy]

*Changed the title to one that goes with the new topic*

Hey guys I just registered to this forum today for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 97 240sx I found for sale. I was talking to the guy, he said the car runs rough and doesn't hold an idle well. On his ad it says "Not sure if it's grasping for air or starving for fuel." After some research, I have come to find that it could be the fuel injectors, or the exhaust being clogged, vacuum lines, something on the intake like that MAF being bad. So I asked him if it threw any codes and he said that it needs an intake air temp sensor and the egr has been deleted. Do you guys think that the intake air temp sensor is the reason why it may be doing that? Also, he replaced the Head Gasket, Head Bolts with ARP Bolts, Water pump, Spark Plugs, thermostat and replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave cylinder last year. I am going to look at the car tomorrow around 12-1. This will be my first 240sx so that's why I am asking for what the cause could be. Hoping to make a good daily driver out of it with boost plans later on. Thanks.

[moso]

Buying anyone's second hand project car is a crap shoot at best. Especially when it wont run right.

[shazzy]

What do you suggest I do then? Just look at it but pass?

*I forgot to add that a buddy of mine has a 89 240sx and his dad is a Nissan mechanic and knows a good bit about these cars.

[JKL1031]

unfortunately yes

[shazzy]

Yeah I did pass on it. I went to check it out and it was in MUCH worse condition than the pictures showed. I did however find a 93 hatch that has 95k miles on the chassis but the motor has been rebuilt but burns lots of oil. Gonna go look at it tomorrow with a couple friends to find out more details because the body itself looks very clean so its tempting to just buy it because of the body.

[moso]

I suggest getting one as close to stock as possible. if you intend on building a 240 the 93 stock hatch that needs a motor isnt a bad starting point. just know it probably needs a motor.

[shazzy]

Yeah I went ahead and looked at it with two other friends (one being the 240sx owner) and the body was absolutely perfect. Fresh paint job, no dings,dents, no rust on the body even the frame, full interior, no cracks, no tears in the fabric. Even the engine bay was spotless. The guy is offering to sell it without the motor. Both of my friends say to get it without the motor and find a used one to drop in or save for an sr20 or whatever. Still looking around but as far as getting a clean shell to work on this 93 is so far my best bet. Looks like it came off the showroom.

[moso]

sounds good to me, personally I would take it with the motor and just rebuild it. you will spend about the same swapping to an sr as you will doing a nice rebuild on the ka and when you turbo the ka you will be very happy.

[shazzy]

I do want to do a ka Turbo actually that is the plan. So you say I should just get it with the same engine instead if say finding a used ka to drop in to make it drivable before building?

[moso]

if you want to go that route i would take the car with the motor in it, swap in a good used motor, put the original motor on a stand and take my time rebuilding it while driving the used motor around town to get used to the 240. that and you can punish the used motor while you build a new one.

[shazzy]

Hmm about how much do rebuild kits go for these days? That is a good idea too but I also have another car that I daily drive so its not necessary to have the car running asap. I need to look into rebuild kits when I get home.

[compactfean]

In my opinion, rebuild kits are only worth it if everything is within spec, and you are using all stock stuff. If you want to use like a mls head gasket, and after market bearings and stuff like that, you would be better off getting everything individually.

[shazzy]

That might be a better idea. The motor in the car already has been rebuilt but the owner thinks its the piston rings or something causing the oil to leak into cylinders 1 and 3. But then comes the thought that why is it burning oil if it has been rebuilt.. makes me wonder what else could be wrong. He did say it has 180 compression across all cylinders though. It may not be 180 exact but I'm assuming that its still a healthy range.

[moso]

it probably has bad valve stem seals, either way when you take the motor to your machine shop they will tell you what has been done to the motor previously. really it shouldn't matter if its rebuilt.

[shazzy]

So do you think I should get the shell plus transmission for 1600 or the whole thing for 2k? Might seem like a lot for the shell but the body literally is flawless. Ill try to put a picture when I get off work.

[moso]

personally i would take it all for 2k. especially if you plan on building it for boost. your going to replace every bearing, bore it, have the head rebuilt. probably change the pistons, and rods. that being said unless the block if seriously wasted or the head is twisted and cracked to hell, its not going to change the cost. plus you get to learn your car while you take the motor out, label everything, clean everything, catalog your parts, and protect your flawless body yourself. no one will care for it like you will.... right?

[shazzy]

Yes. You have a point there..I think I will do that. I'll edit this post or make a new post with some pictures in a bit


Edit: Here's some pictures of the car. Let me know your opinions.