Michelin Primacy 225/60R-15 installed today followed by a second opinion on the front end components. Found both steering boots torn and the seals missing. Also found that the front strut mounts are badly worn(rubber "bumpers" at the top are gone or nearly gone). Waiting for the damage estimate.
What do you think?
96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (grunze)
It's past time for replacement. No tension rod bushing issues? Steering rack mount, upperlinks? Ball joints, lower links?
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Jeff Williams
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Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (grunze)
Negative camber and toe-out are the main reasons tire wear on the front of the Q.
Tension rod bushings cause most of the problem with toe-out. You get a lot of play in the bushings and the front end has bad bump steer. Either buy new bushings and have them pressed in, or get you some new tension rods.
The upper links are the main cause of the camber issues. They wear out after about 90,000 miles and the camber goes negative. There is no adjustment for this, just replace the tension rods.
The dust boots protect the struts. If they are shot, chances are the struts are shot too. Worn or weak struts cause excessive body movement and this will increase tire wear. It is a good idea to buy the Tokiko blue struts and new dust boots at the same time. My strut mounts were fine at 200,000 miles on Layla, and fine at 110,000 on Lola when I changed out the struts on each.
Be sure to check the steering rack boots for cracks and leaks. WHile you are in there, replace them as well.
Go ahead and buy new sway bar end link bushings, they are cheap.
The last thing, is to have the front end aligned. Tell the technician that you are experiencing excessive tire wear, and you want the toe-in set to the minimum allowable spec. This will help with the car darting on rough roads as well.
The final thing is to add the front strut tower brace I make. This won't help with your tire wear, but it will help me buy more Corvette parts .
Tension rod bushings cause most of the problem with toe-out. You get a lot of play in the bushings and the front end has bad bump steer. Either buy new bushings and have them pressed in, or get you some new tension rods.
The upper links are the main cause of the camber issues. They wear out after about 90,000 miles and the camber goes negative. There is no adjustment for this, just replace the tension rods.
The dust boots protect the struts. If they are shot, chances are the struts are shot too. Worn or weak struts cause excessive body movement and this will increase tire wear. It is a good idea to buy the Tokiko blue struts and new dust boots at the same time. My strut mounts were fine at 200,000 miles on Layla, and fine at 110,000 on Lola when I changed out the struts on each.
Be sure to check the steering rack boots for cracks and leaks. WHile you are in there, replace them as well.
Go ahead and buy new sway bar end link bushings, they are cheap.
The last thing, is to have the front end aligned. Tell the technician that you are experiencing excessive tire wear, and you want the toe-in set to the minimum allowable spec. This will help with the car darting on rough roads as well.
The final thing is to add the front strut tower brace I make. This won't help with your tire wear, but it will help me buy more Corvette parts .
Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (Jeff Williams)
might want to add general prices if your sutch the salesman. dont want him to go and buy somthing for twice the price and walk away thinking he got a deal
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (Mym Mars)
Parts prices are subject to Nissan polices, not set by us. Similarly labor prices are reflective of their economic environment, not what we think they should be.Mym Mars wrote:might want to add general prices if your sutch the salesman
Joe is our friend and source of the best prices.
Modified by maxnix at 5:09 PM 6/18/2007
Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (maxnix)
i mean it to mean, this chrome plated fleever valve usually costs between 80-120 dollars. i dont mean specifics.
Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (Mym Mars)
English,please.
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Jeff Williams
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2000 Infiniti I30t
2004 Infiniti M45
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Re: 96Q Tire Eater 6/14 Update (qship96)
Let's see....
I paid about $300 for the Tokiko BLuesI paid about $250 for the dust bootsI paid about $60 for the rubber parts for the sway barsI paid about $180 for the two stock upper linksI paid about $225 for aftermarket adjustable upper linksI paid about $50 for the tension rod bushings, then about $20 having them installed.I paid about $200 for adjustable tension rodsI paid about $250 for the Cali Custom springsI paid about $150 for the rear upper adjustable control armsI paid about $75 for the rear subframe busingsI paid about $100 for the rear sway barI paid about $30 for the front strut tower brace (then I spend 1 hour modifying it to fit the car)The alignment will run you about $75 every time you do it.
You can get the spring compressor from Autozone as a rental. You really need air tools to make it easier on yourself. Always use jackstands, and have someone there to talk to you and call 911 if you do something stupid. I did all the work myself, but you can have it done for close to $1,000 more.
Spending $500 on a set of 17" wheels and another $750 on a set of tires really helps these cars handle better, but you have to draw the line somewhere, don't you?I am sure I have missed something.
I paid about $300 for the Tokiko BLuesI paid about $250 for the dust bootsI paid about $60 for the rubber parts for the sway barsI paid about $180 for the two stock upper linksI paid about $225 for aftermarket adjustable upper linksI paid about $50 for the tension rod bushings, then about $20 having them installed.I paid about $200 for adjustable tension rodsI paid about $250 for the Cali Custom springsI paid about $150 for the rear upper adjustable control armsI paid about $75 for the rear subframe busingsI paid about $100 for the rear sway barI paid about $30 for the front strut tower brace (then I spend 1 hour modifying it to fit the car)The alignment will run you about $75 every time you do it.
You can get the spring compressor from Autozone as a rental. You really need air tools to make it easier on yourself. Always use jackstands, and have someone there to talk to you and call 911 if you do something stupid. I did all the work myself, but you can have it done for close to $1,000 more.
Spending $500 on a set of 17" wheels and another $750 on a set of tires really helps these cars handle better, but you have to draw the line somewhere, don't you?I am sure I have missed something.