chuckphx wrote:Please provide some experienced advise. Thanks.
Welcome to NICO. You didn't exactly get the red carpet treatment from most of the responders and hopefully you won't be stuck at one post on this forum. Their advice is correct- you need service records from the PO and the stealership, you will spend at least $3000 the first year to get her running nice (1/2 way there with struts), and parts aren't always cheap (fuel pump, FPCU, injectors, MAF later in the post). The best advice was to read, read, read and in about a week you'll start to understand the common failures and fixes and what a great car your Q45 is.
I can't afford to take my Q to the stealership for repairs and have done most myself but when I do go to my repair shop of choice I go in telling them what's wrong with the car, I provide the parts (25-30% discount through our sponsors), and print up repair instructions from our forums. They appreciate the information and my repairs have been done correctly.
chuckphx wrote:........just purchased a used 96 Q45 for $2300. It needs new struts and I had a heart attack when my trusted local mechanic gave me an estimate for $1800.
He's a bit high but not too far off. It depends which strut he priced. Supply the parts ($150/wheel) yourself and figure about an hour per strut. Using our sponsor and ballpark numbers, Tokiko blue struts are $80/ea, boots $35/ea, bushings $20/ea plus shipping. OEM struts are Tokiko whites which I think most stealerships sell for about $200/ea. The only other aftermarket is Monroe.
chuckphx wrote:......It has 146k miles and is otherwise in very good condition. I am getting approximately 10 mpg and the acceleration is worse than a Yugo with its AC going.
I couldn't find Wes's post which listed the pat answer with a five item list for the new owners asking what's wrong with their Q. Here's my stab at it:
>> Clean your MAF sensor and its connector. Is your car at idle up and down (0-1500 rpm), stall while stopped and restsrt with no problems? Clean, crimp and lube the pins in the connector. When done the connector should fit tight with minimal wiggle. Some owners are having trouble with internal solder joints and it's an easy fix. There's a very recent thread about this. The 96 connector may not look exactly like this but cleaning and crimping is the same.
>> OHM thy fuel injectors and knock sensors. A digital voltmeter is the only tool required- as cheap as $10-15 from Radio Shack or Best Buy. I'm guessing a dead injector or two is your biggest issue.
>> Pull the codes from the ECU. You didn't mention if the check engine light (CEL) was on or if the mechanic had pulled codes. You've got a 96 so it's OBD2 and you don't have to unbolt and unplug the ECU from the kick panel. Buy a universal $20 code reader off ebay and pull the codes yourself and then keep it in your glovebox.
>> Check the fuel pump and fuel pump control unit (FPCU). At 146k miles you may be hearing what sounds like a swarm of bees in your trunk? The fuel pump is a common failure item at your mileage. Fuel pressure should be in the 35-40 psi range. In the pic the FPCU is in the background. Look for scorching or melting of that connector.
>> Clean up the pins on every connector you can get to in the engine compartment, especially the FI, MAF, TPS and CAS. If your Q has ever had any leakage (coolant?) there will be green corrosion on the pins.
I'm only touching the tip of the iceberg here and will have to rely on others to give more details. In the meantime the tech help section at Q45.org has some good info that's a little easier to find than searching on NICO. Start there to get a good introduction to your Q and then come back here and start reading. If you can get back to us with the ECU codes you pulled, the FI and KS resistance readings and some more maintenance history we'll make some progress. Good luck.