96 Pathfinder Wobble
96 Pathfinder Wobble
Hi all i need help.I got a 96 pathfinder that has a bad wobble, it always happens when i accelerate or decelerate or on some turns it wobbles. Took it to the nissan dealer a few times already they replaced sway ber bushings once, then they replaced the linkage in the front still getting wobble any ideas. please help wobbl is killing me.
when you are accelerating does it feel like the rear end is gonna go sideways on you? the 96 to 99 pathfinders seem to have a problem with the rear axel housing links wearing out prematurely there area 4 total 2 that run from under the rear doors to the axel housing and 2 up higher then run at an angle from near the sway bar links to the axel housing. have them inspect these link bushing closely.
2 of them you can see if you lean down and look under the vehicle right in front of the rear tire it has 2 cables attahced to it running the length of it. there is one on either side of the car. the other 2 are a bit more difficult to see when the car is on the ground. but they are mounted to the top side of the axel housing. and run at an angle from the diff to where the sway bar links mount to the body. all 4 are about 2 inches in diameter.
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REACTOR '03
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- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2003 11:40 pm
- Car: Off-roading, detailing, blowing stuff up!
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I know that problem well. I had a '97 with the same problem. It took some time and money but I found out that it was the Lower contorl arm bushings. I got poly urethene bushings, sold in pairs by 4X4 parts.com At first it would just rock from side to side when I hit a bump, then when I replaced one the back end would kick out like it wanted to fishtail. I put in the remaining bushings on both sides and it pretty much felt like new. I got a set for the pan hard rod and upper rear control arms as well never got around to putting them in because the problem stopped after that. It is difficult to see the bushings are worn while they are still installed but once they are removed the rubber inside will fall apart and crumble like dried bread. The parts are not that expensive but the labor is if you can't do it yourself. The bolts may be seized in and may need to be cut out depenending on how much snow and salt the vehicle sees. Once the control arms are off they just need to press or chisle out the old ones and press in the new ones. I know at first the parts dont look like they will fit but put a little of the supplied lube on them and they slip right in for a perfect fit.
Same thing?
I have a 96 Pathfinder 2wd and when you stop the rear end sorta keeps on going. I mean it sorta jumps and you hear a clunking sound. Like the rear end chunk is spinning and it suddenly comes to a stop.
I just got this so I can't say I know how it should drive. I mean as far as I know the thing feels loose to me. I don't notice a ton of wobble but do feel the rear end sorta moving around.
Think this is the same deal?
Trvlace
:ylsuper
I just got this so I can't say I know how it should drive. I mean as far as I know the thing feels loose to me. I don't notice a ton of wobble but do feel the rear end sorta moving around.
Think this is the same deal?
Trvlace
:ylsuper
How many miles on it?
How many miles yours have on it? I have 113,000 on this one. Seems strong still.
I am considering putting a timing belt and water pump on it just for good measure. From what I have read here so far the 3.3 has rubber for the timing chain. Correct me if I am wrong. I assume the previous owner neglected this at 100,00 interval. I will have the transmission serviced too. It seems to wait for ever to go into 4th gear. Maybe I am just new to this. First forgein car I have ever owned! So far so good!
The muffler/resonator at the exhaust tip is busted open, so that is going to have to be fixed too. Any tips on what to replace it with? Stock? Or should I do something else to open up the exhaust? Was thinking at least a chrome tip.
Over all this thing looks like new. They detailed it and you can eat off the firewall and inside fenders. Nice.
I am considering putting a timing belt and water pump on it just for good measure. From what I have read here so far the 3.3 has rubber for the timing chain. Correct me if I am wrong. I assume the previous owner neglected this at 100,00 interval. I will have the transmission serviced too. It seems to wait for ever to go into 4th gear. Maybe I am just new to this. First forgein car I have ever owned! So far so good!
The muffler/resonator at the exhaust tip is busted open, so that is going to have to be fixed too. Any tips on what to replace it with? Stock? Or should I do something else to open up the exhaust? Was thinking at least a chrome tip.
Over all this thing looks like new. They detailed it and you can eat off the firewall and inside fenders. Nice.
125K IVE REBUILT transmission, YES ON THE TIMING BELT OF IF IT BREAKS YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE ALL OF THE VALVES, ALL NISSANS ARE 0 CLEARANCE, BUT THEY RUNWELL AND LONG.I ALSO HAVE A ,87 1 TON DUELWHEEL UTILITY SERVICE TRUCK THAT HAD 235K WHEN I BOUGHT IT , IRAN ABOUT ANOTHER 40K BEFORE THE GUYS BLEW THE ENGINE, REPLACED THE ENGINE AND TRAN, AND HAVE RUN ANOTHER 7OK SO FAR. LOVE NISSAN
What is and interferance motor? You lost me.
I had my bro order the bushings today. Four of them were $17 each and the other $10 each. Will I need to have these pressed into place? I have a very good working knowledge of engines from growing up working in my dad's boat dealership. Where all the motors were high preformance. Now I sell computers. How wrong is that? LOL!
At 113,000 miles the bolts look like brand new. I had it on a rack today and saw a slight rear end leak from the filler plug. So I cleaned that up, added a lil grease and snuged it all up tight., I will keep a eye on that.
Next week I am going to put the water pump and timing chain on her. Nice!
Thanks for the help and insite. Your great!
I had my bro order the bushings today. Four of them were $17 each and the other $10 each. Will I need to have these pressed into place? I have a very good working knowledge of engines from growing up working in my dad's boat dealership. Where all the motors were high preformance. Now I sell computers. How wrong is that? LOL!
At 113,000 miles the bolts look like brand new. I had it on a rack today and saw a slight rear end leak from the filler plug. So I cleaned that up, added a lil grease and snuged it all up tight., I will keep a eye on that.
Next week I am going to put the water pump and timing chain on her. Nice!
Thanks for the help and insite. Your great!
Quote »What is and interferance motor? You lost me.[/quote]
An interference motor is a motor that will allow the valves to contact the pistons should the crank shaft and cam shaft rotate out of a preset timing. i.e should the belt break the cam stops its rotation almost instantly but the inertia of the crank shaft would allow it to rotate a few more times if a valve is down the piston will come up and strike it usually bending the hell out of it. this is not a good thing.
Quote »I had my bro order the bushings today. Four of them were $17 each and the other $10 each. Will I need to have these pressed into place? [/quote]
Yes they wil need to be pressed in and it can be a real pain. Some times it is near impossible to press the old ones out. I strongly recommend you take it to a machine shop and pay them to press them out and the new ones in.
Quote »I have a very good working knowledge of engines from growing up working in my dad's boat dealership. Where all the motors were high preformance. Now I sell computers. How wrong is that? LOL![/quote]
Nothing wrong with that I would not wish my career on to either of my boys. I honestly hope they go into the computer programming industry. There is much more money to be made there then in this buisness. And less stress involved.
So does your dad know anything about old 2 strokes? in particular 1965 seaking 45hp outboard? I am having a hell of a time getting it to run. I have about run out of tests to determine the source of my problem contact me via email on that subject if you do.
Quote »Next week I am going to put the water pump and timing chain on her. Nice![/quote]
Sweet but it has a belt not a chain.
An interference motor is a motor that will allow the valves to contact the pistons should the crank shaft and cam shaft rotate out of a preset timing. i.e should the belt break the cam stops its rotation almost instantly but the inertia of the crank shaft would allow it to rotate a few more times if a valve is down the piston will come up and strike it usually bending the hell out of it. this is not a good thing.
Quote »I had my bro order the bushings today. Four of them were $17 each and the other $10 each. Will I need to have these pressed into place? [/quote]
Yes they wil need to be pressed in and it can be a real pain. Some times it is near impossible to press the old ones out. I strongly recommend you take it to a machine shop and pay them to press them out and the new ones in.
Quote »I have a very good working knowledge of engines from growing up working in my dad's boat dealership. Where all the motors were high preformance. Now I sell computers. How wrong is that? LOL![/quote]
Nothing wrong with that I would not wish my career on to either of my boys. I honestly hope they go into the computer programming industry. There is much more money to be made there then in this buisness. And less stress involved.
So does your dad know anything about old 2 strokes? in particular 1965 seaking 45hp outboard? I am having a hell of a time getting it to run. I have about run out of tests to determine the source of my problem contact me via email on that subject if you do.
Quote »Next week I am going to put the water pump and timing chain on her. Nice![/quote]
Sweet but it has a belt not a chain.
Bulletin from Nissan on Clunk...
Bulletin Number: NTB98046DSOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A CLUNK NOISE FROM THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WHENSTOPPING. *TT
Hmm
I was just hoping someone had access to look up these service bulletens and see what they have on them. The one about automatic transmission scares me. Like it only does this clunk on a auto transmission...worried now this is not the "wobble" problem and something else....ugh.
TrvlAce
"it's all good!"
:help
TrvlAce
"it's all good!"
:help
Re: One more
TrvlAce wrote:Bulletin Number: NTB99074SOME VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE JN8AR07S4XW350146 AND EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATICTRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A CLUNK NOISE FROM THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WHENSTOPPING. *TT
NTB99074
If a 1996-99 2WD Pathfinder equipped with automatic transmission exhibits a "clunk" noise from the rear end of the vehicle when stopping, it is considered a normal characteristic of this vehicle, and is due to the longer propeller shaft required in 2WD vehicles. However, to ensure the satisfaction of those owners who may find this noise objectionable, a new transmission, propeller shaft, rear stabilizer bar connecting rods and lower rear suspension links are available to correct this incident. IMPORTANT: Prior to starting this service procedure, confirm that the vehicle has NOT been previously repaired with the procedure in NTB98-046 and NTB98-046a by checking for the presence of notification stickers on the inside back cover of the Owner's Manual,under the front hood or on the driver's side door jamb. If the vehicle has been previously repaired with the procedure in NTB98-046 and NTB98-046a, this service procedure is NOT applicable
TrvlAce wrote:Yeah, worried now that I have the "clunk" and not the wobble.
Why the long face Niss? How did that make you angry? I am not dis'n ya am I? Not meaning to if that is what happened.
Just reading and saw these bulletins. Yikes!
TrvlAce
Not you guy. A huge chunk of this thread is gone. I didnt do it and I am not thrilled about. Your info was relevenant and good.
I canceled the stabilizer bar bushings I had on order. I don't call what I have a "wobble" It is a clunk, more to the point a wind up clunk. It can and does happen on take off sometimes, not the stop. Must be the clutch not stopping in the auto tran and puttin a loss of twist on the shaft and rear end. So when you let off and take off the pressure releases and "La Clunk!".
Maybe someone bumped up into the thread and it took some post out? Or does a moderator only have priv to remove a post?
TrvlAce
Maybe someone bumped up into the thread and it took some post out? Or does a moderator only have priv to remove a post?
TrvlAce
Prior to this I had a Chevy K5 Silverado Blazer 1983 model. Nice ride, one of the last real metal dashes in a truck. Oh those were the days! 120,000 Miles on it..
Then I had a 86 Chrysler Caravan which I put 300,00 on, unreal vehicle. A story of it's own. Then I got a 96 Caravan. Just had it totaled 3 weeks ago in a head on collision 165,000 miles on it.
So I got this for fun. Never owned any forgein rides so it is "wierd" to me to drive this thing, the motor is loud and seems to turn up more RPM than the 3.3 Chrysler motor did. Also does not seem to have the speed the van did. Maybe I just am afraid I will blow this thing if I punch it. LOL>
But it looks new, I still can't tell much difference between it and the new ones. Hmmm. Plus I can sell this and not be hurt if i put a few miles on it. Great deal so far.
Then I had a 86 Chrysler Caravan which I put 300,00 on, unreal vehicle. A story of it's own. Then I got a 96 Caravan. Just had it totaled 3 weeks ago in a head on collision 165,000 miles on it.
So I got this for fun. Never owned any forgein rides so it is "wierd" to me to drive this thing, the motor is loud and seems to turn up more RPM than the 3.3 Chrysler motor did. Also does not seem to have the speed the van did. Maybe I just am afraid I will blow this thing if I punch it. LOL>
But it looks new, I still can't tell much difference between it and the new ones. Hmmm. Plus I can sell this and not be hurt if i put a few miles on it. Great deal so far.