96' I30 Brake Problems

[zzester]

Hi there,

New here but having a problems with my 1996 Infinity I30 brakes. The car has 75,000 miles. I have owned the car for a year. I bought the car from a friends mother who didnt use it all that much and regularly serviced the car. When I bought the car I had to replace the brakes and since then I have changed the brakes 4 times with less than 20,000 miles on the car.

I had a simular problem with a 90 Nissan Maxima I owned. Both my mechanic and I are at a loss. We have replaced with loaded brake sets, brake pads, every brake configuration but my car eats them up in three months.

I drive with one foot, I dont ride the brakes and I dont excessively step on the brakes. I dont drive like my grand mother but I dont drive like a race car driver either.

ANyone have any ideas?

Thanks, Chris

[maxhopper]

Welcome to NICO.

Have you been using OEM replacement pads?

[IvoryJ30t]

theres no obvious dragging of the brakes?

what does the wear pattern look like? is one pad [in a set] worn significantly more than the other?

i use nissan pads all around, and get about 12k miles per pair in the front.

i also change the pads way before its needed.

[zzester]

Hi and thanks for the reply,

Brake pads are worn evenly. no scoring or anything unusual. However, since I have been listening and paying attention I have heard an "Orp" sound as the tire rotates moving forward slowly under 5 mph. But the sound comes and goes. My thought was that the brakes are not letting go completely and wearing as I move forward.

I also hear a vibration when breaking which the timing is inconsistant. I am struggeling to figure out where I hear these sounds.

My mechanic says everything has worn evenly and nothing looks wrong but I am still blowing through these brakes, calipers, everything once a quarter.

Since this has happened my mechanic says that it is the way I drive, but, it doesn't make sense to me. its only been two cars, a maximia and my I30 and all since I have been 38 years old.

[zzester]

Hey there and thanks for the welcome.

We have used everything. Nissian brakes, OEM brakes. My mechanic had me go back to the Nissian brakes because "Nissian is the manufacturer", but I am still blowing through.

At a loss with what to do. Have you heard of changing your brake fluid every two years? A friend who modifies his cars said that that was a couple hundred dollars but worth doing because the fluid wears out.

I am open to any suggestion

Thanks

[IvoryJ30t]

how are the rotors? were they machined during the last pad change?

also, did both sides wear equally? [wheel to wheel as opposed to the pad set within the caliper]

[zzester]

I dont know all the answers but I will find them out today. I know we have been using Nissian loaded brakes.

I am going to see my mechanic today and I will find out.

Is there anything else I should be asking him?

Thanks for the questions.

[IvoryJ30t]

as to the brake fluid, i try to change it once a year.

i have a vac pump and container, so its a one person operation. much easier than the conventional two person bleed.

i do my own work, and my maintainence schedule is excessive.

in the past year, ive replaced all three O2 sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the knock sensor, the thermostat, all four tires, all four brakes, brake fluid, flushed the trans, BG 44k/ISC/AIC treatment, and im gonna do the shocks and shock mounts when the car comes back from the body shop.

[minor collision, getting new rear bumper]

95 maxima [same chassis] 94k miles.

runs beautifully.

[zzester]

Wow you seem to have an extensive maintiance program for your cars.

I am learning alot about my car at the moment.

What is BG 44k/ISC/AIC treatment? also why do you change the o2 sensor and all these other parts that I usually wait until something goes wrong? Does the car run significantly better? I had a computer modual flare up and the car is running rich right now, that is something else I have to change.

I have to run out the door right now but I will get answers to your questions today and post later today or early evening.

Did you say that you only use Nissian parts for the brakes?

Thanks for your comments and thoughts

[coolhand]

Try changing your master cylinder. The reasoning behind this that it seems that your brakes are not fully releasing causing a slight drag while driving. To check before buying a master cylinder with the car off, put the car in neutral (make sure you are on a flat, smooth surface) and try pushing the car forward. It should move with some effort, if it take a lot of effort to move a couple inches try replacing the master cylinder. Hope this helps.

Coolhand

[zzester]

Thank you for your suggestion.

I an not sure I would have thought of the master cylinder. I will give this a try. Thanks for the input, I will let you know how things turn out.

[IvoryJ30t]

i replaced the sensors due to age. anything with 11 years and 94k miles will not perform like new.

i get a shop discount at the local nissan dealer, so i use nothing other than OEM parts. plus im a perfectionist, so i do alot of unneeded "repairs"

i usually dont charge myself labor, unless it was a real PITA

the bg 44k goes in the gas tank. it does a wonderful job of cleaning injectors, and removing carbon from the valves.

the isc [induction system cleaner] and aic [air intake cleaner], i mix together and spray into the throttle body and idle air control valve. i have a tool that you pour the chemicals into, and using shop air, sprays a fine mist/fog. that cleans the whole intake manifold of built up crud.

ask around [shops] for the BG intake treatment. should run between $130-150 i highly recommend it.

as far as routine maintainence-

oil and filter- 3k milestire rotation-6k milesair and fuel filter-9k miles [15k is norm]trans fluid drain and refill-12k milesBG treatment-12k milesfront brakes-12k milestrans flush-24k miles

back to the brakes- the roll test [above post] will give some insight. let us know.

[IvoryJ30t]

sorry, i get off track and rant.

the brakes- the important specifics are-

1- are the pads wearing evenly in relation to the caliper set [is the inside pad wearing equally to the outside pad]

2- are the pads wearing evenly in relation to the axle set [are the pads on one wheel wearing faster than the other wheel]

3- are the worn pads tapered [is there an angle to the worn pad surface]

4- can you roll the car on a level surface

another test- FIRMLY apply the parking brake. make sure it works before proceeding. place the transmission in neutral, and jack up the front of the car. [one side or both]. can you turn the wheel by hand?

keep in mind, a small [about 2mm] variation in wear between the inner and outer pads is normal.

that should get down to the problem.

[zzester]

OK

First thank you for the information and test ideas. Unfortunately I am out of town until Sunday morning so I will not be able to test anything until I get back. Sunday I will let you know what happens in the tests.

I also met with my Mechanic tonight and we talked about several things.

Yes we have been using OEM parts.

He either replaces the rotor or lets it be. He does not machine the rotors because he said that they got complaints when they did. ( dont ask me what the complaints were I didnt ask). We have replaced calipers , some times one side sometimes both sides as well as the pads. I am going to ask him to look at a pattern on in his records for both my cars and see what he comes up with.

We also talked about a proportioning valve replacement and also the master cylinder. The mechanic said that he has rarely, almost never, seen the master cylinder tear up brakes. Usually with the master cylinder it is brakes going to the floor.

He maintains it must be how I am driving because I am his only customer with a Nissan car who has this problem. I did have the same problem in my 90' Maxima also, but I disagree with his point of view.

As far as the wear pattern and which shoes have been replaced I dont know. I realized after speaking with him tonight that I was commenting on the rotors and not the brake pads this morning.

Tuesday I will have a better idea because I am getting the brakes replaced again. My last replacement was in late October. Right now I am scared to drive the car because the breaks dont feel like they are there if i have to stop fast.

Also I always use my parking brake when I park the car to take the pressure off the transmission when its parked. I wonder if that could be a problem.

Well I will be back late Sunday morning and report on my roll test and others. I will not be able to comment on the pad wearing becasue I dont know whatI am looking for and dont have a caliper to measure.

Thanks everyone for your help so far. It is really awesom to have others imput.

Chris

[IvoryJ30t]

thats very unusual. if all that work has been done, and problem persists, i cant really explain it.

i agree about the master though. i have never seen a master cylinder fail with excess pressure. but i have replaced many that stop making pressure.

when was the last time the rear brakes wore out?

[coolhand]

I know it seems odd, but this happen to me twice (once on a chevy van and on a honda accord). From the information given so far, master cylinder is the last part to check.

Coolhand

[zzester]

HI Guys,

Sorry have not been on and gotten back to everyone. COmputer broke don't ask me I dont know what happened but couldnt get on.

OK Get my car back from the mechanic last Friday. the brakes were fine but the front rotors were burned, scorched and replaced.

The mechanic asked me if I ride the brakes which I said I might have in trying to take long slow stops in order to preserve the brakes otherwise no I dont ride the brakes.

I have about half the brake pads left in the back.

I thought it was wierd thatthe brake pads were good but that the rotors burned out.

Any Ideas?

[zzester]

Also forgot to tell you that the Master I dont think is grabbing however I always pull on the emergency brake when I park the car and it does nat always release all the way when I take it off.