‘96 Hardbody clutch issue

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Hi, everyone!
First post here. I have tried searching here and Google, but not finding my exact issue. I hope this is not a repost! I have a 1996 4x4 XE 5 spd manual with 146k miles. I have not had any issue with shifting at all, until yesterday. Everything went fine in the morning, work day ended, started truck, drove 11 miles home via interstate without issue, got about a mile from my house after I got off the exit and I couldn’t shift. The clutch hasn’t been slipping or grinding at all. The clutch is extremely hard to press almost feels like something is going to break if I press it. And the shifter will not budge from whichever position it is in. When truck is turned off, clutch presses like normal and shifter goes in each gear without issue. Master cylinder is full of fluid. Does this sound like the clutch needs replaced or could it be a cylinder issue? I am not very mechanical but have tinkered with this truck a good bit. Thanks for the help guys and I apologize if this has been answered before!!!

TLDR: Clutch hard to press, shifter won’t budge when truck is running. When truck is off, clutch can be pressed like normal and stick moves great.


whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Welcome to the site. And arm chair guess. I would try replacing the slave cylinder. Cheap and if the clutch assembly is bad your going to replace it anyway... Raise the vehicle, have someone press the clutch pedal and check to see if the clutch fork is engaging and disengaging... pretty common for the piston in the slave cylinder to stick.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Thanks for the response, whomadewho. I will try the things you suggested. I’m hoping it is something that simple. Fingers crossed! Should the slave be replaced with the master? Thanks again.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Disregard my last post. Looks like the slave should be changed with the master. Thanks again for the information, I will update with results.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Not necessary to replace the master when the slave cylinder is replaced. When purchasing parts for your truck always go by the date of manufacture or use the vin number.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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IF you replace the master cylinder make sure you bench bleed it before installing.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Thanks for the info I just realized you said slave and not master cylinder. I will keep updated here.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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So I replaced the slave cylinder anyway since it was cheap and easy. Unfortunately, the clutch fork is staying in the “rearward” position. It doesn’t rest toward the slave cylinder. I can push it toward the slave cylinder but it pops right back away from it.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Might try bleeding the slave cylinder again. It’s possible there is still air in the system. What type of bleeder did you use?

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Yeah I am going to take it off and bleed it again. Very likely that there is air in it as I screwed up when putting the line back on it. I just bled it by hand in a container of brake fluid. It took a bit but I did it until no more air bubbles came out. Is it possible to do it this way without a bleeder? I don’t have a bleeder. This would explain why I can’t get it to bleed like brakes. Thanks for the help.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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The SLAVE cylinder has to have a bleeder screw. You can bleed the slave cylinder the same way you can bleed the brakes. Another way is the use of a vacuum hand bleeder.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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It does have a bleeder screw. Before I installed it though, I followed a process I saw online of getting more fluid in it to make the bleeding process easier. Not sure that helped me at all. I’m going to try to bleed it again tomorrow. I didn’t get a chance today. I will hopefully have an update tomorrow afternoon. Thanks, man.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Just an opinion I would spend the $ and purchase a vacuum hand pump bleeder? Not to expensive roughly $30.00 - $40.00. Having someone pushing on the clutch pedal may result in a knee replacement it’s time consuming and the master may be bad?

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Look on the Home page go to the link SERVICE MANUALS You will find a FREE SERVICE MANUAL which will provide you with a lot of valuable information. Hopefully replacing the cylinder will resolve the problem?

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Thanks for all the help so far. I went and picked up a vacuum bleeder just a little while ago before I saw your post. This thing really got stuff moving. But so far I can’t seem to get all the air out. I definitely have clutch resistance now and am moving plenty of fluid compared to what I was doing before. But I still have air bubbles and the clutch has a ton of play.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Standby, I think I may have just got it!

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

Post

Scratch that, but I am further along than I was. Here is what I have now:

-Clutch feels good.
-Shifts good when started in gear, no noise.
-Intermittently, when started in neutral, it grinds when trying to put it in gear. If I start it in gear, I can run through all of the gears fine.
-Clutch acts like it is doing what it should when started in gear. Will definitely stall if the clutch is released and foot on brake.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Try double clutching when you first start out. If there is a noticeable difference it’s POSSIBLE the master clutch cylinder is going bad?

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Sometime you might want to consider changing the transmission fluid? Drain the fluid into a clean container. Look for brass, metal filings and pieces. The fluid should not be silver. When you refill the transmission use fully synchronized manual transmission fluid ONLY! Never use any type of gear lube for differentials. If you decide to replace the master clutch cylinder count the number of threads on the adjuster you might want to disconnect the line on the slave cylinder and blow compressed air through the line to ensure there is no debris in the line.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Thanks again for the info! I have a new master on the way so I will keep updating.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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If you purchase the master slave cylinder from a local parts store take the old one along. There are two different ones it’s depending on the date of manufacture and where the truck was made. Some of the trucks where made over the pond?

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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Thanks for the heads up. I order most from LPS, but I ordered this one online and went by the date. I noticed two different ones and the LPS always manages to order me the wrong part when that is the case.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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To add to the confusion some of the OEM masters came with which looks to be like a sending unit or sensor location on the bottom. The after market may not both will work. You might want want to pickup a crows foot and a wobble extension I think it’s a 12mm double check? The nut located on the master toward the the booster isn’t user friendly. Might end up removing the reservoir the clamp can be a challenge. Spray the nuts with a penetrating before the cylinder arrives.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

Post

All good points again, thank you. As for the fluid you mentioned: fully synchronized manual transmission fluid - is there one you would recommend? And thanks a bunch for that bit of info, because everything I was finding said to use gear oil and I want to do it right. Thanks.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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The term gear oil is generally used for differentials. The differential gear lube that has - API - GL-5 is intended for non synchronized transmissions. API-GL-5 attack’s the yellow metals in the synchronized transmission. Some of the synthetic gear lube say you can use there product in manual transmission but I am not willing to purchase it. The price of a rebuild or used transmission isn’t in my budget.

whomadewho
Posts: 523
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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A lot of fully synchronized manual transmission fluid on the market. I generally use AcDelco because of the availability in my location. It comes in synthetic or non synthetic your choice? I am located in a colder climate where low temperature sometimes can get between-20 to -30 degrees below.

AppalachianNissan
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:41 pm
Car: ‘96 4x4 4cyl hardbody

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It’s been a while but I finally got a chance to put in the new master cylinder. It didn’t help. It shifts fine when started in any gear and goes into neutral and acts fine. However, if I start it in neutral, I can’t get it into any gear.
Looks like it’s gonna have to go to a shop at this point. Thanks for all your help!

VALLEYBOY
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:28 am
Car: HARDBODY

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So I had a very similar issue in my HB couple weeks ago. Nearly Identical. I replaced master and slave. Slightly better response but no avail. Finally said "f" it and dropped the trans thinking my pressure plate was baked. Lo and behold! One of the springs in the clutch broke out and was in between the PP and Clutch. How sway? I dunno but new clutch, pp and flywheel (RB25det) later she's alive and with a 10lb savings on rotating mass.

User avatar
Niti QX4
Posts: 173
Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:45 am
Car: 2004 Nissan Xterra

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Good Find! An inspection like this is usually the best place to start. What did you use for a pilot shaft tool?

VALLEYBOY
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:28 am
Car: HARDBODY

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AUTOZONE PILOT BEARING PULLER TOOL P/N 8070L


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