96 Hard Body Blinker Issues

[sejje]

Let me say I've been lurking these forums for a few days, ever since I recently bought a '96 Hard Body.

Anyway, hopefully it's alright to start out soliciting advice, and maybe someday I'll know enough to reciprocate--although that might be an overzealous goal.

Both of my front blinkers are non-functional. The rear blinkers work. They blink in hyperdrive, which I believe is supposed to mean a bulb is out.

I replaced the bulb in one side to no avail--it did not work upon completion. The assembly was in pretty good shape---a little rusty inside, but I cleaned it out to ensure there was good contact. The old bulb appeared to be fine, as well, with an intact filament.

I also checked the fuse box, but I only found one fuse related to blinkers, so I assume the front and rear are working through the same fuse?

Anything else I can check? I don't even qualify for "tinkerer," I'm strictly in the "car dumbass" category.

Also, is the orange light on the side of the body (height even with the headlight) another blinker?

Many thanks good sirs.

[seang]

I wonder if the wires to the front blinkers were ever cut, someway, somehow, somewhere?

[sejje]

I can (and will) go try to trace them, although I'll have to start on the blinker end. I have no idea where they're supposed to end up!

If that were the case, would the others still blink in fast-mode?

[seang]

I think so, having a cut wire will have the same effect as a burned out bulb. In additon to cut wires, look for corrosion : )

[sejje]

Well I went out for a quick look with the flashlight, and found what I presume to be the right wires. They were coming out of the sidewall near the headlight, there was a pretty big circle cut out for them.

Anyway, they seem to be intact (they're all inside of the ribbed tubing), however there is one terminal end that sort-of comes out halfway (the other wires continue to other terminal ends).

It's not connected to anything, but I don't see anything to connect it to.

I'll take a picture and post it.

[sejje]

Here's where the wires come through into the engine compartment. I'm assuming these are the correct ones.



And in this picture, you can see the connector I'm talking about. It branches from the other wires near the bottom of the picture, and then it ends halfway, without connecting to anything. I can't find anything that might reach over to it, but since it's a connector, one would assume it's supposed to plug in somewhere!

[sejje]

Sorry the pictures suck, by the way. I had to use my long lens, as for some reason my kit lens is causing error messages. The minimal focal length is six feet, so I couldn't get in close, nor keep everything in focus.

Plus it's dark out there ;p

[seang]

whoaaaa! I literally can't decipher the pics. Resize them to 21% before uploading to the hosting site, really, I can't even see what I'm looking at, I would need a big screen tv to see those pics. lol

[sejje]

Oooh! Sorry, I didnt' even notice---my browser was scaling them.

My apologies. If they're not resized now, refresh and it should pull them again. They're much more normal-sized now.

I'm really not such a photo dunce, I swear. I even have a photoblog ( http://photo.sejje.net/ )

[seang]

IDK sejje, that connector isn't there on my 97. I hope you find the culprit, otherewise I guess you could just run wires from the rear ones to the front. Not the actual fix, but a band aid if you have to. I really hate recommending jury rigs.

[RT22]

It is probably the socket has the rust or white ash oxidation, clean with sand paper, mild or fine grit and some contact or brake cleaner, if that and new bulb do not work get a meter. Meter the wires going into the back of the socket for voltage. May be tricky as it will pulse on and off as the blinker does. Most likely the sockets it is common probelem make sure the side of the socket is shiney clean for ground and the little nubs at bottom are also clean and shiney for the positive. 90 percent of the time it is the sockets.test by turning on blinker while lens is off and twisting bulb to be sure of goot contacts on the socket to bulb.

[sejje]

Tried cleaning them up again, both sides. One side was very clean already, and the other had a white type of corrosion.

Regardless, they did not work after shining up.

I might try tracing the wires, but I might just take it somewhere.

Last question: one of my buddies mentioned a relay. Is that worth me trying? I assumed if it was the relay the back ones would be out as well.

[seang]

I guess it could very well be a relay. I've not had any problems with mine in the 2 1/2 years I've owned it, so I couldn't really tell you if there are front and back relay's or not. You should let us know.

[PEZi]

it is possible to be a relay... yes

before taking it somewhere at least check

[RT22]

before paying money to mechanic go to autozone and get 15 buck manual it has wiring schematic i am almost positive, use ti to trace wires and relays.

[sejje]

I took it to the dealer. I just bought it, and my father used to work there---they fixed it for free, said it was a "flasher." I'm too much of a dunce to know what that is, so I asked, and he said a relay.

Anyway, it works, so now I can move on to my other issues:

1) Lighter/power plug doesn't work.2) Steering wheel catches in one spot each rotation. The spot is just about 1/4 inch wide, and it clicks there. I think some plastic parts are sticking, but they give way when I "force" (not hard) it by. If I let the wheel auto-center, though, it's enough of a catch for it to stop there.3) The horn also would sound at/near that catch point, only when turning. I just removed the fuse for the horn, for the time being.

I'm not sure that stuff is within my ability to repair. I really need to have a backup car for when I'm doing stuff that might break this one.

[seang]

the steering bind could be that the steering box adjustment screw is too tight. Its supposed to be just tight enough so that there isn't play when the wheel is centered.

[Q451990]

I had a '97 Hardbody for several years until recently - basically the same truck. I would pull the air bag (follow the instructions and precautions in the factory service manual) and look for a loose part in there. There is a damper that sometimes falls apart and rattles around. I have heard of it causing the horn to work when it shouldn't. I would think it could also cause some binding.

Mine just rattled like hell when I went over railroad tracks. Unfortunately it's not available separately, so you just toss it if it falls off. Or spend the big bucks on a new steering wheel.

You can download the FSM here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Good luck!

Heath

[rizzobc]

if you have pull-a-part keep checking there. i have an'87 HB and i have the clicking noise in mine. I found a wheel there for $12.00. fix my problem. if you do have a pull-a-part always check them for stuff. they are a life saver. i'm sure everyone here will agree. i am still looking for the a/c vents. if anyone has some or knows where i can get some. all the HBs i have looked at the vents have been crap. dealer want almost $300.00 for the set.

[Q451990]

I love the Pull-a-Part. So far I have visited two - one here in Columbia, and one in Charlotte, NC.

Heath