95 z32 shuts off when hot

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Oneslow95
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:12 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 300zx, 2 seater NA

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So I have a 95 z32 and it started sputtering really bad and then wouldn't start. I pull off a coil and no spark. And once it cools down bam spark is back.
I as another z do this to me years ago and replaced the ptu/ICM and fixed the problem.
So I got a brand new ptu from z performance which is a actual Nissan part and put it on. Same thing happened, it got hot started sputtering and shut off.

So I'm thinking it has to be whatever is sending signal to the ptu like cam sensor or crank sensor.
Any help would be appreciated


rgregoryb
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 3:12 pm
Car: 1992 300ZX 2+2 NA

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Have you run the ecu codes yet? A real good place to start, also the grounds are critical for proper operation of the ptu

z.Leinbach
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Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX NA T-top
Location: Kennewick, Wa
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like rgreg said. look at ecu. my guess could be coolant temp sensors, and or air temp sensor

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evildky
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87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
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If you are loosing spark it's either the CAS or the PTU

Oneslow95
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:12 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 300zx, 2 seater NA

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evildky wrote:If you are loosing spark it's either the CAS or the PTU
That's what I was thinking, since it's not the ptu it has to be what the ptu uses as reference which is the crank angle sensor.

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DCaff300ZX
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1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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I would agree with the above thoughts regarding the PTU ground and/or CAS, and even moreso the PTU/CAS harness connections themselves and corrosion. IF both harness connections are good (two connectors on PTU) and grounds are confirmed good, THEN move on to the CTS and injector harness looking for corrosion or lack of continuity such as short, broken wire/connector, etc. Inspect the coil connection and connector to the spark plugs as well looking for signs of broken crispy old connector or wiring, as well as whether the connector seats all the way and correctly or not (a past problem on my NA cyl #6). The coil itself could also be degraded but not as likely as the other items so check it all in sequence, and DO look for any codes as well as they will provide clues as to where to start looking.


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