It's been doing this on my wife's 240 for a while and now it has become a real annoyance. Is it the sending unit in the tank? It's the same way when it's empty it never reads on E always above.When she fills up she never puts over 12 gallons, scared to run it to low and run out of gas. Help!!
Thanks
'95 S14 SE Gas Gauge doesn't go to full
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phoenixR34
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2003 1:09 pm
- Car: Nissan
Zaxx84 wrote:That seems strange, I have a '95 240 and when I fill it up it wont seen to move from full...I can go almost 200 miles before it moves(but then after that, I only get anouther 100 miles, sometimes less, to the rest of the tank.)
Mine has just started doing this. At first I though the gauge was busted, but this morning I reached the 200 mile point and noticed that when I was going around an exit ramp that the needle moved down a little.
Mines been like this ever since I bought it, and having bought it almost 500 miles from home, I was beginning to get worried why I was still full on gas when I had already gone 200 miles, I could've sworn it was busted. But not long after, it started to fall pretty quick, the most I've gotten to a tank is 390 miles(all highway)
I noticed that to, I have a 95 se and I filled it up to the point that the gas would not come out of the pump it was so full. (I like to round to the nearest dollar and it stoped at like $.12 over). Anyways I was wondering what kind of gas mileage everyone is getting and if anyone knows exactly how big the tank is. Zaxx do you remember how many gallons you put in on your largest tank. I have gotten between 28mpg highway and 24 when I am romping on it.Before I get any questions about it I have not put the RB motor in because it is still being shipped.
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96_S14_SE
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 11:10 am
- Car: 96 S14 SE - 05 VW GTI 1.8t - 89 S13 coupe "gold on brown"
Its 17.125 gallons, but dont ever try to squeeze that out of the s14 due to the design of the tank.
Also my gauge has read about 1/8" over full, at full, since I got it in 99 with 28k on it. I now have 115k and it still does it. Also my car has always gone about 70 miles before dropping, and then after 30 miles (100 total) it will rest exactly on 3/4 tank (keep in mind its off by about 1/8").
I consumed 10.9 gallons to 303 miles last time. I was kinda down mentally and drove like the average commuter with a mix of highway and city, but also raced to a buck 2 times (which is very very rare anymore on the highway, but having taken my neighbors mustang in the on/off ramps the opportunity arised for a clean 75-100 blast where my auto took him
although minimally) and sat in a dead stop traffic jam for 40 mins as well... So yeah my modded auto s14 got 27.78 mpg last time, and averages between 22 and 28.
Having dismantled a few gauge sets for other reasons pertaining to other reasons, I can honestly say the problem lies in the placement of the needle.
The needle sits on a shaft and is turned from its laden state to its on state when the car is on and getting a signal from the float / ecu. If the needle happened to be positioned 1/8" off at the factory it will still read exactly the same as a properly aligned one, but will read 1/8" above full when full, and 1/8" above empty when empty. Or, you could say, it will still have the same range of motion as a properly set one, in degrees, as long as it isnt being restricted from the trim.
If you want you can care fully take the cluster out, and take the gauge out. Mark where it rests in its off position, with out any interferance (there should be none if you remove the fuel gauge from the cluster, as the needle goes lower then the trim). You could lay a small peice of tape on the face under where the needle sits and mark this position. You can carefully remove the needle and press it back on in the corrected location, or IIRC (dont quote me as its been a cpl years since I cracked open an s14 cluster) you can simply rotate it CW till it stops, and rotate it just slightly more the amount needed, so that it will spin on the shaft. Let if fall and it should be in the correct location. Put it in the cluster and try it out. It should be ok now.
Thats exactly how I would do it, but its not a big deal to me. When I stuck the float down cornering agressively and had the neddle plummet the rise 1/4 notch then plummet to rise and fall rise and fall, I was a bit concerned
Also my gauge has read about 1/8" over full, at full, since I got it in 99 with 28k on it. I now have 115k and it still does it. Also my car has always gone about 70 miles before dropping, and then after 30 miles (100 total) it will rest exactly on 3/4 tank (keep in mind its off by about 1/8").
I consumed 10.9 gallons to 303 miles last time. I was kinda down mentally and drove like the average commuter with a mix of highway and city, but also raced to a buck 2 times (which is very very rare anymore on the highway, but having taken my neighbors mustang in the on/off ramps the opportunity arised for a clean 75-100 blast where my auto took him
although minimally) and sat in a dead stop traffic jam for 40 mins as well... So yeah my modded auto s14 got 27.78 mpg last time, and averages between 22 and 28.Having dismantled a few gauge sets for other reasons pertaining to other reasons, I can honestly say the problem lies in the placement of the needle.
The needle sits on a shaft and is turned from its laden state to its on state when the car is on and getting a signal from the float / ecu. If the needle happened to be positioned 1/8" off at the factory it will still read exactly the same as a properly aligned one, but will read 1/8" above full when full, and 1/8" above empty when empty. Or, you could say, it will still have the same range of motion as a properly set one, in degrees, as long as it isnt being restricted from the trim.
If you want you can care fully take the cluster out, and take the gauge out. Mark where it rests in its off position, with out any interferance (there should be none if you remove the fuel gauge from the cluster, as the needle goes lower then the trim). You could lay a small peice of tape on the face under where the needle sits and mark this position. You can carefully remove the needle and press it back on in the corrected location, or IIRC (dont quote me as its been a cpl years since I cracked open an s14 cluster) you can simply rotate it CW till it stops, and rotate it just slightly more the amount needed, so that it will spin on the shaft. Let if fall and it should be in the correct location. Put it in the cluster and try it out. It should be ok now.
Thats exactly how I would do it, but its not a big deal to me. When I stuck the float down cornering agressively and had the neddle plummet the rise 1/4 notch then plummet to rise and fall rise and fall, I was a bit concerned
I think that would depend on how you drive it but if you stay off the gas and are just crusing I would think you would do better not worse with the SR20. Now if you go to a large FMIC and a big turbo then I think you will be able to get consistently between 28-32. Reasoning is those mods will give you more turbo lag so if you drive it resonable and mix in highway driving you will not be driving under boost and therefore not buring any more gas than a 2 liter engin would. Take for instance Nights 240. He gets 28-30 mpg out of an rb25det, (which is about 4-5 mpg better then a skyline) because not only is the motor in a lighter chasis but he also has mods like a large FMIC (plus look at that piping, it's fricken long) which all equates to more lag which means unless you are pushing it you are going to drive more like a NA motor.