95 Q45 Driveshaft Carrier Bearing

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HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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Hey guys new forum user here first post. got a 95 Q and seems to be the carrier on the driveshaft is shot. it squeaks, and has vibration when its cold but then it smooths out after everything warms up at first thought it was a universal but yanked them they are tight so pretty sure its the carrier. I doused it with wd-40 and the next day it was super quiet.

So question is, anybody have a link to that part, and...any special tool needed? seems pretty basic under there but just wondering if i am opening a can? this car, unlike my GMC trucks has been incredible so i do not even have a service manual for it..might have to buy one now but thought I would see your thoughts. She is my daily driver so also curious how many labor hours we are thinking....will have the rear up on ramps so a bit of a monkey job in my driveway kind of scenario.

Thanks!


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BCC93QT
Posts: 1385
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:20 am
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45
Location: Western MA

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Never replaced the bearing. Just swapped my first gen for a second gen since you cannot replace the bearing on the earlier model (so I hear). Not fairly complicated buy helps to have a lift and a second pair of hands. Power tools. ETC

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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Thanks for the response! I assumed you did the entire driveshaft assembly as one?

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BCC93QT
Posts: 1385
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:20 am
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45
Location: Western MA

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Yes the entire thing. its just straight forward... Thankfully the exhaust doesn't need to be dropped. Like I said 2 sets of hands makes it easier than one. Being able to stand under the car rather than lying is helpful

OwnerCS
Posts: 1771
Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 4:34 am

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BCC93QT wrote:Yes the entire thing. its just straight forward... Thankfully the exhaust doesn't need to be dropped. Like I said 2 sets of hands makes it easier than one. Being able to stand under the car rather than lying is helpful
+1 to BCC's post. I picked up a drive-shaft from a 94 model from another member as it had been improved over the Phase 1 versions.

I think the drive-shaft can be replaced in a couple hours of shop labor. Around here that would be $170.

When I had my transmission replaced, the shop swapped the drive-shaft no charge.

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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that all being said, does just replacing the center bearing actually seem like a tougher job than doing the entire dirveshaft assembly?

OwnerCS
Posts: 1771
Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 4:34 am

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I look at it as about the same operation..

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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Thanks for the feedback. Well.....it will have to be in the driveway up on ramps in the cold at night with the lights solo death mission.

Like a trip into the unknown abyss all the while telling yourself "I can do this, and calling tripple a to come tow it out of the driveway to the local repair shop when its half ripped apart and completely messed up is the worst that can happen, right?"

OwnerCS
Posts: 1771
Joined: Thu May 27, 2010 4:34 am

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Where are you located?

I would put it up on some type of stand that will allow you to be able to rotate the drive shaft (via wheels) to improve your reach to all of the connecting bolts..

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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mmmmmm good point. I am in Hampton NH (on the coast), and winter has set in. thats a good point about keeping the rear wheels free to rotate, didnt think about that. I could get the frame rails both on jack stands i suppose.

I will have to get back under there and really take a good look to see how realistic it is to do alone with jackstands and or ramps.

even when i had it on ramps theres not a whole lot of clearance under there. not like an F150 or a suburban. I have not had to do much to the Q over the years other than brakes/oil. she has been incredible one the gems that was just put together with perfection and still drives like new with 202k on her its almost strange.

so doing projects to her is a bit of a change from my american sloppy trucks which a money could work on.

kevindanielk
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 4:52 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Stock, except for the blues.
Location: LI, NY

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It can be done, with just ramps and jack stands. I changed my transmission with just those lifts, in my driveway, by myself, so just dropping the drive shaft down should be a piece of cake, for someone accustomed to working under cars. You could put the ramps under the rear wheels and when you need to spin the shaft, to access all the rear bolts, just jack up the differential a bit to get the wheels to turn and then lower it back down onto the ramps when you done turning. Make sure you chock them front wheels good, to keep them 2 ton of Q from rolling forward on you. Good luck.

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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excellent idea about a quick jack of the pumpkin to do a rotation. I like that, much safer...working fully underneath with jackstands only is sketchy. that gives me some more hope. much appreciated!!

Long island 95'. we are lost brothers my 95 was actually born in long island, at a dealership in Rockville Center where my old man bought her as on off lease in 97' w/25k on her.

kevindanielk
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 4:52 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Stock, except for the blues.
Location: LI, NY

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My 95Q was adopted with 98k miles from an insurance auction out on long island, after being stolen and stripped of her wheels, rear seat, rear speakers, radio, radiator and engine fan. I also had to replace the entire steering column and pass. door glass, damaged from the theft. Also, when the incompetent tow driver dragged her onto the flatbed, he hooked her by the lower control arms and bent them badly. Had to replace most of the front suspension once I got started rebuilding her. Brake rotors were also warped due to the improper tow so she got a full set of new rotors and pads. I changed the valve cover gaskets since they started pissing oil soon as I switched over to synthetic oil. The transmission reverse gear went last spring so I put in a junkyard unit, with 92K miles. Been driving very well since then, much better than the original unit. She now has 138+K and going strong. I got some engine mounts ready to put in but that's a warm weather job, I hope.
Last edited by kevindanielk on Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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That is like a religious experience of sorts.

And here I am wondering about a carrier bearing.

Your Qs life has me questioning many things in life now

kevindanielk
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 4:52 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Stock, except for the blues.
Location: LI, NY

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I definitely saved her from the junkyard crusher. She would've been there by now without me, of that I'm sure. The Q was definitely built to withstand the test of time, from all the well built individual parts all the way to the superb paint job.
Questioning how strange life can be is good but do keep the task at hand in mind...... fixing that carrier bearing. Get it done, in your driveway, before them northeast snowdrifts start piling up.

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

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You havve given me faith and I now see the light ha ha.

I might call that infinityparts.com or whatever the place that sponsors this website to. Make sure I get the correct part as for something like this I lack faith in the local parts store.

ericthered
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:02 pm
Car: Past: 06 M35x, 94 Q45t, 92 Q45, 91 Q45 w/HICAS
old nico name: JedCoop
Location: San Jose, CA

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OwnerCS wrote: +1 to BCC's post.
+2 I did the research and concluded the right way to go was a 94-96 design driveshaft for my '92 with TCS. I bought a new one - it was a decent price from Scottsdale at the time.

I think one earlier post was incorrect, I think you can turn the driveshaft input on the rear end with the wheel down, but that is a long time ago.


I advise while you have the car up for this you replace the transmission mount (which always goes eventually). A good transmission mount means a better aligned drive shaft.

And if you really care you should change out any britle exhaust hangers.

HamptonQ
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:03 am
Car: 1995 Q45 Owner since 28k, 210k as of 3/2012, daily driver, no rebuilds or major issues.
Location: Seacoast NH

Post

transmission mount...

Now hang on. My symptoms def feel like a universal but I'm pretty sure its that bearing. And I sprayed it and it stopped squeaking.

But....the vibration is way worse when its cold the first 10 minutes of driving for the day. Then it seems to warm up and be almost non existent, its there but so slight a mere mortal might not recognize it.

Now when the transmission is cold...perhaps its not as smooth as when its warm. Is there any chance that transmission mount is loose, when the transmission is cold there is a rhytmic vibration and when it warms up it smooths out? That the cumlprate may be the transmission moun t itself?

I will have to check this out.

ericthered
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:02 pm
Car: Past: 06 M35x, 94 Q45t, 92 Q45, 91 Q45 w/HICAS
old nico name: JedCoop
Location: San Jose, CA

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The transmission mount should have a gap of maybe 1/2 an inch between the rubber mounted tot he transmission and the metal below it (with rubber on each side to hold it up)

Eventually the thing collapses. Even if it is squixhy but a small gap remains, it should be changed.


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