95 Q electrical problems

[Iheartjeeps]

Ok my name is Eric and I used to be a member of nico but since then have forgotten my screen name and password....but back on topic,I recently got hold of a pearl white Q that was mistreated.i am slowly reviving her and I have hit a couple of speed bumps.

First-the transmission I believe is in limp mode,reason being is that it only has one forward gear(I believe second) and reverse.i can manually put the shift selector down to 3,2 or 1 and the transmission does not respond it stays in just that one gear....

Second-I replaced the rear rotors and pads,when I bought the car the Iady i bought it from told me that the rear brakes needed to be bled.i thought nothin' of itwhich brings me to today....i replaced the pads and rotors like I saiand I i went to bleed the system very little if any fluid comes out from the bleeder screw.i proceeded with the rest of the calipers and only the fronts bleed properly.i put the q in drive and smash the brakes and the rears are completely useless.they don't even attempt to work.i have a suspicion that the abs pump has something to do with this.

[elwesso]

If you send me an email I can reset your password if you know what email address you might have used for your old account.. we always like to reinstate old accounts than start new ones..

The transmission could be a lot of things, it puts itself itself in limp mode for a few various reasons... I would start with the trans self diagnosis and see if that turns up anything.

The brake issue is interesting.. Does the pedal seem to hold pressure or does it act how it should when bleeding the brakes when the bleeders are open on the rear.. I'm wondering if you just need to pump the heck out of it to get it to go through, or if the master cylinder is hosed..?

[Iheartjeeps]

I will send you an email here in a bit thank you sir-don't want to sound stupid but where do I email you at? There is no email address in your profile view


As far as the transmission goes i have tried to do the self diagnosis thing and i guess the car wasn't warmed enough because i went through the steps and when i get to the put in three and push the pedal to the floor step etc.... Nothing happens.il try again tomorrow.


The brake issue is wierd.the pedal feels soft and mushy like it has air in the system but i spent 20-25min bleeding it starting at rr,lr,RF,and finally drivers front.

[elwesso]

my email address is on the contact page of www.q45.org

[240RB1]

Ok well I let the car warm up completely and tried the transmission self check.i get to the AT check screen and then proceed to do the 3,2,1 gear changes with wot pumps in between after that's done a little square blinks once and that's it.is that the code?

[240RB1]

Ok,well i decided to follow the self diagnosis word for word and still get the AT Check display so that must be a code right?
i go into the fsm and start digging and low and behold AT CHECK is a code.
Possible suspects could be Inhibitor switch,1 position switch, kickdown switch,closed throttle position switch and diagnostic information display.


So i dig out my trusty craftsman voltmeter and start probing.
_Results_

1)Inhibitor switch
~park and neutral-11.50v
~Reverse-8.6v
~Drive-9.5v
~D3-9.5v
~D2/1-10v
Now the fsm says that these should all be battery voltage so i think this switch passes no?

2)1 Position switch
~fsm says battery voltage-i was getting a fluctuating 7-9 volts
kind of close to 12v so i believe this one passes as well no?

3)Kickdown switch
~fsm says 3-8v releasing pedal-actual for me-6volts
~fsm says 1v or less when pedal is presses all the way(wot)-actual-0.0v
so this switch passes with flying colors-YAY

4)Closed throttle position switch circuit
~fsm says when releasing gas pedal voltage is around 8-15v-actual-0.2v
~fsm says when pedal is depressed fully voltage is 1v or less-actual-0.2
I think this is the culprit?

5)Diagnostic information display
~fsm says continuity should exist between A/T control unit terminal 3 and diagnostic information display control unit terminal 20
i think i measeured this one wrong-reason being is that i had one probe on the a/t computer harness and the other on i believe the consult port.
thats obviously wrong but id like to hear other peoples comments,oh and i had no continuity the way i did it lol

[Lokim]

If the FSM says they need to have battery voltage, than you need to measure battery voltage prior to measuring voltage at the switch/sensor. If your reading varies more than .2-.3 volts from battery voltage, you have a problem.

I would start by disconnecting the battery, charging it, and cleaning the posts & terminals THOROUGHLY. Re-connect the battery and take your readings again. Report back.

[240RB1]

Ok so replaced batter terminals and charged the battery.....and what do you know the results were as followed
Inhibitor switch-p,n,d,3,2,1 all have 12 volts and reverse has 11.5 so were good there

1Position switch had a constant 12volts so yay

kickdown switch has 7.8v while backing off pedal slowly and wot nets 0.0 volts yay

The closed throttle position switch has no change.no voltage backing off pedal and 0.0v at wot-still think this is the culprit no?

The diagnostic display I checked correctly this time around and I do have continuity.soooo next is to troubleshoot the closed throttle position switch.


Currently the car is on jackstands-replacing plugs fuel filter with a z32 unit,air filter,valve cover gaskets,oil change and transmission pan drop to replace filter and flush out old fluid.

[Lokim]

Damn I'm good!

Sounds like you have a bad TPS. The closed throttle switch is integral to the throttle position sensor. Replace the sensor, warm the car up FULLY, and set to .44V @ idle w/ closed throttle (read on the TPS signal wire.)

[Lokim]

Ok so replaced batter terminals and charged the battery.....and what do you know the results were as followed
Inhibitor switch-p,n,d,3,2,1 all have 12 volts and reverse has 11.5 so were good there

1Position switch had a constant 12volts so yay

kickdown switch has 7.8v while backing off pedal slowly and wot nets 0.0 volts yay

The closed throttle position switch has no change.no voltage backing off pedal and 0.0v at wot-still think this is the culprit no?

The diagnostic display I checked correctly this time around and I do have continuity.soooo next is to troubleshoot the closed throttle position switch.


Currently the car is on jackstands-replacing plugs fuel filter with a z32 unit,air filter,valve cover gaskets,oil change and transmission pan drop to replace filter and flush out old fluid.

This reminds me of what my auto shop teacher drilled into my head over and over and over and over and over again:
"ALL ELECTRICAL TESTING STARTS AT THE BATTERY!"

Thanks Mr. Thompson, truer words were never spoken...

[240RB1]

Wouldn't a bad tps throw a code?or make the engine itself run funny?regardless I will check it once its all put back together.thank for your help on this thread and the transmission fluid thread too

[Lokim]

Not necessarily. The TPS and CTS are housed in the same body, but are two separate sensors with separate connectors. The TPS side may be working fine, while the CTS is not working, fooling the TCM and putting it into limp mode. Another thing to check is the TCM fuse. Mine blew once due to jumping relays, and it went into limp mode. Replaced the fuse and all was well.

Your welcome for the help. Let us know how things go.

[240RB1]

Alright so I replaced the drivers valve cover and was letting the engine burn off all the old oil off the manifold so it sat for 20 or so min....enough to warm up the transmission fluid.decided to test the transmission to pass time and I got a code!


The code I got was code 4 which is shift solenoid A I believe? What are the chances of this solenoid just going bad completely? Or could it possibly be a loose/dirty connection?I have not gotten a chance yet to drain the transmission pan and replace the filter so if possible could someone post a pic of what this solenoid looks like.im going to be searching in the mean time but maybe someone had a pic of this close by?

[Lokim]

Download the FSM and it will tell you how to test the solenoid from outside the transmission. Test it and get back to us. If the solenoid is indeed bad, replace all the solenoids at once. Not a lot more money for only having to do the job once...

[240RB1]

Alright so I asked wes for some help and came up with pretty idiot proof results.i tried to ohm test solenoid a at pin 6 from subharness plug m209

from pin 6 to ground is an open circuit....not 20-40ohms like the GSM says.

So then I checked pin 6 from the back of the tcu to the pin 6 on m209 and I have 0ohms so that's a good sign.

Looks like my culprit is going to be the (A) solenoid:/

Just for giggles I went to our local Infiniti dealer and asked for a price for the shift solenoid pack......i gave him my info and reported back to me and said its a special order package and it costs 503$:D
What the hell lol.i know I've seen upgraded solenoids new go for less than 200$.what a ripoff lol.but I guess you get what you pay for no?:-P

[Lokim]

Told you so.

[240RB1]

Lol.do you have any specific places where to get the solenoids from?I've seen them online go from 109-140 for OEM replacements but maybe you know someplace that sells OEM or close to it for just a little more if not cheaper???

[Lokim]

Try here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/ ... oogle+Base

[240RB1]

Ok so after a good long wait i fineally got my valve body gaskets and solenoids so i tore it apart and cleaned it and put it all back together(valve body that is)

i am ready to toss it back in the q but the only thing holding me back is the 3 darn springs that shot out when i first took the vb off.
i have been searching like a madman and i have yet to come across a diagram or picture that shows which spring goes where.any help will be appreciated......i want to get this Q back on the road where it belongs

[240RB1]

Still have found no diagrams or pics.
Someone has to know this

[Lokim]

Post a picture of where they shot out of.

[240RB1]

Hey Lokim,I can't post pics off my phone sorry so the next best thing.....the thread below this one about no 3rd or 4th gear if you look in that thread the picture of the vb with the three springs.those are the springs I am stuck with.i don't want to force them on/in so if anyone has a picture (of the correct placement) please speak up.

[htbyrico]

I will send you an email here in a bit thank you sir-don't want to sound stupid but where do I email you at? There is no email address in your profile view


As far as the transmission goes i have tried to do the self diagnosis thing and i guess the car wasn't warmed enough because i went through the steps and when i get to the put in three and push the pedal to the floor step etc.... Nothing happens.il try again tomorrow.


The brake issue is wierd.the pedal feels soft and mushy like it has air in the system but i spent 20-25min bleeding it starting at rr,lr,RF,and finally drivers front.

hello guys.. did you ever fix your brakes? had the same thing happen to me and i solved it.. let me know..

[240RB1]

I haven't gotten a chance to look into it but please by all means share with everyone what you did to fix the issue.it would save me alot of diag time....

[htbyrico]

well i have traction control so my car started to make this sound then lights in the dash SLIP and TCS light on.. well that when on for a long time then your mushy brake petal like you then i was like .. anyway took off the traction control unit and the pump.. took every thing apart found my problem .. the spring in the pump broke and lock up the pump.. cleaned everything ordered new seals and took the spring out never replace them.. put the pump on a vice and test and work like new.. cleaned traction control unit new seal and o ring put everything back.. found lot of rust build up in it.. so i said how can this be it all sealed?? well the pump seal i replaced was letting water seep in as it rain and i went over water.. my wheel cover had broken and i never did fix it on the passenger side.. wow what a job it took a few day waiting on parts.. so now i started to put everything back in and tighten all lines and finish the job flushed out all old brake fluid and changed my brake pad front and rear.. got a friend to help me bleed the system.. and when i got to the rear no pressure at all .. now im lost !! took a damm brake now i was so F-ing mad.. then i seen the bleed screw on the master cylinder.. unhaa.. that's were your problem lies !!! had my friend pump and pump and i open the bleed screw.. nothing but air!! i was so happy then.. after that i went back to the rear calipers open them up and they were shooting out like water guns!! wow all this work and there it was miss that screw on the master cylinder.. turn the car on and went on a fast ride !! my slip light and tcs light was solved.. AND BRAKE STOP ON A DIME !! let me know if this helps you.. im a technician at cottman transmission.. when i fix something it get fix,, feel me!!

[240RB1]

Good deal.make me really wanna drive this damn car now lol.i was thinking if this car turns out to be in need of a new transmission afterall to pull the motor and throw it in my 91 240.or part it out lol
But anyways thanks for your help and il try that out tomorrow when the suns out.....

[htbyrico]

sure thing man!! glad to help and by the way i spent over 4 grand on my q just in parts i do all the labor.. you put in to it it will pay off at the end bro.. i love my q .. hope you do the same.. ever need parts just send me a e-mail.. i have all the cheat sheets i know how to get good deal on new and rebuild parts !! and it not the dealer.. but some times i have no choice.. i will always be a nissan lover !! happy holidays to all and good night !! here my direct e-mail [email protected] ..

and as far as the trans i got your back i got the hook up!! i work at cottman transmission.. i seen the post and seems like you having a internal issue.. going to have it look in to it i had my give me issues but all it needed was a good pan drop and cleaning and flush and change my TPS !! WISH YOU LUCK ON THE TRANS BRO!!