We actually did have a check engine light when this was occurring but the car was shaking almost to the point of stalling, we changed the fuel filter and the light went away. Before that though, the car would randomly rev up to 4k and then back down and then rev up again at random intervals. We assumed that the fuel needle was not calibrated correctly and we probably had less fuel than what it was showing, so we filled it up with $20 and it seemed to have went away afterwards. After a couple of minutes it occurred again. It was fixed with the fuel filter replacement. The issue of the car turning off again occurred again. So we assumed it could have been the ignition coil. We changed it and that didn't seem to be the issue either. So we are now assuming it could be the fuel pump, but my father wants to know where the fuel pump lies in the car and where to access it, and also if there could be any other issues.Blindaviator wrote:No check engine light or codes?
Try starting it up and let it sit to idle... Make sure to leave the hood closed and the A/C on (if you normally use it when the problem occurs)... If it shuts down while idling I would say it is temp related... Something overheating and shutting it down...
If it stays running it is more likely a loose wire / short somewhere or possibly related to the stress of driving... Driving causes more stress on the fuel pump which could cause it to overheat and shut down... Might also put a fuel pressure tester on it and see what the pressure is like...
When is the last time you filled the fuel tank up?
Most manufacturers recommend you fill the tank at least once a week. Most in-tank fuel pumps have a small cup around them that is designed to hold fuel to act as a coolant for the pump. Over time the fuel evaporates and the pump will heat up causing it to fail faster.
The CEL went away after the fuel filter replacement so if I end up buying a code reader wouldn't it read as nothing was wrong with the engine, when clearly there is?PathyPop wrote:If you have a CEL you should get a basic $30 code reader to pinpoint your problem, at least you'll have a chance of saving some money. That seems irresponsible for a mechanic to just replace all your coils. Doubtful that could be the problem and expensive. Mine is a 2003 with the 3.5, so a little different, but I had experience with the cam position sensor turning off the engine. If the CPS sensor was disconnected while running the engine would turn off, not sputter, but would completely shut down. Then it would start right up again even with the sensor disconnected and keep running just fine. Just clearing the code with engine running would immediately shut down the engine in the same way. It would always start again with the CPS disconnected, taking a few seconds of cranking. This tells me an intermittent CPS sensor could cause the shutdown you are experiencing. These are cheap and easy to replace, one each on each bank at the top front of the engine.
The reason I found out about the CPS causing this problem is because I had another code for the VVT that caused the engine to go into limp mode. Disconnecting the CPS would give me a different code that wouldn't cause limp mode but would cause the engine to stop as noted.
One small problem... OBD2 started in 96 and this is a 95... It likely has OBD1 which will have VERY limited diagnostics associated with it...PathyPop wrote:If you have a CEL you should get a basic $30 code reader to pinpoint your problem, at least you'll have a chance of saving some money.
I did not catch that. Was thinking it was an early R50. It doesn't even have a CPS (but does have a crankshaft sensor). At least the fuel tank has an access panel under the carpet.Blindaviator wrote:One small problem... OBD2 started in 96 and this is a 95... It likely has OBD1 which will have VERY limited diagnostics associated with it...