95 maxima stalls after warming up, RPM drops then car stalls.

[Glove124]

Hello, I'm having a difficult time trying to figure out what is wrong with my 95 Maxima. I'm the Original owner.

I've talked to a master technician at Just Anwser.com (Nissan) and he walked me through a lot of things but still have same problem.

So far I've changed the TPS, Knock sensor, adjust the IAAC (idle contrl valve. ) Cleaned the MAF (mass airflow meter).

Checked or pulled codes from the ECM. see my first post: New to this site.

I don't want to get rid of this car if i don't have to.

My last hope is to take it to the Dealer and let them check it, since they have all testing tools to get to the anwser.

any suggestions??

[turbobink]

have you addressed all of the codes that were stored?

have you checked the condition of the air intake box and intake tubing for cracks and such? how about vacuum leaks or disconnected/cracked/broken hoses?

in your other post you state: Quote »beside stalling sometimes the odometer and speedmeter stop working as well.[/quote]what exactly does this mean and are you thinking this is somehow related to the stalling issue?

have you checked the crank position sensor? i'm not an authority on the '95 model but on the '99 (VQ30) oil changes and poor placement of the crank sensor lead to the sensor getting doused with oil when the filter is removed. this situation has, as has been reported, lead to a stalling issue in the VQ30... check it out.

[jltibbs]

Also look at cleaning the actual butterfly in the throttle body. A dirty (sticky) butterfly can have the same symptoms. Also have the plug that plugs into the MAF to see if the wires are loose or backing out.

[Glove124]

turbobink, Thank you for responding. yes to your question about the speedometer.

also it is funny that you mention oil changes because after a week or so after the oil change this just started happening.

is the crank positioning sensor easy to replace because I believe I found the cam sensor and that is leaking oil and it is wet.

I hope that it is the crank pos. sensor because the problem starts when the car warms up.

thank you! i will investigate.

[Glove124]

jltibbs, thank you. I did clean the butterfly which was pretty dirty.

[Graberhieny]

Glove124 how did you adjust the Idle Air Control Valve...How do you know that you have got it to the proper setting...I know that mine has been messed with before and now do not know the original positioning...What did you do to adjust it to the proper setting..

Thanks, I am having the exact problems currently.

[Glove124]

follow the mass air flow and above and to the right of that you will see a black plastic phillip screw. With the car off disconnect the tps connector that towards the windshield start the car up with that connector disconnected only. look at the rpms and it should be approx.800 rpms gently though it is sensitive. once at 800 rpms. turn car off. reconnect and start the car.

Wait do this first exactly.

1. start engine and bring it to 2000rpms for 2 minutes then turn engine off. 2. with engine off disconnect the tps connector nearest the wind shield.

3. turn engine on with tps connector off, check rpms and make sure it is about 800 rpms if not adjust gently till your at 800rpms. once at 800 rpms then turn engine off.

4. reconnect tps connector restart you engine it the should be at 750- 800 rpms. this is what I did.

[Graberhieny]

on that first step you want me to bring the rpms to 2000 for 2 mins with the gas pedal or is there another way of going about this?

Do you need to run that car at 2000 rpms o warm it up?
Modified by Graberhieny at 1:56 AM 5/19/2008

[Glove124]

Correct yes gas pedal sorry. For about 2 minutes to warm it up.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

I am not an expert but offer the following advise (I have a 95);

1) Get a Haynes or Chiltons Manual or the FSM here on NICO2) Clean your Idle Air Control Valve. I checked mine electronicallyand it was ok but the carbon inside was keeping it from idling correctly.IT is an "easy" fix3) Check your MAF with a multimeter to be sure it was not damagedduring cleaning. It sounds like it is ok because you would be havingworse problems with your car than what I am reading about.

[Glove124]

Took it to the Dealer and they said it was the egr solinode valve sensor was stuck and clog and the MAF was inoperable. $950.00 later.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Well the MAF probably costs $400?

[Glove124]

At the dealer it was $500.00 Although I could have purchase it myself for $400.00 I'll keep anyone who's interested on the out-come of this repair when I get my Car tomorrow.