95 Maxima Crankshaft Position Sensor (please read)
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AshleyFromPA
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:41 pm
- Car: '95 Nissan Maxima
95 Maxima Crankshaft Position Sensor (please read)
Hello Everyone! I am new to the forums here. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima (which I absolutely love- even at the age it is) and my check engine light is on. I took it to Advanced Auto a while back and the code was P1335- Crankshaft Position Sensor. I took it to the dealer, they checked it out, replaced one of the sensors (they told me there are 3). The light went out until later that day. I took the car back in, they checked out the other two sensors and told me they are clean-good- nothing is wrong with them. Basically, now, my check engine light is still on after going through all of that and I am running out of ideas as to what I should do or how I can get this fixed. I did take my car to a Nissan Dealer- in case anyone was wondering. When it is hot outside, my car tries to start but cranks and does not fire. Just wind wind wind wind... you get the point. Then, I turn the key back to "off" and put into start position, wait like 3 seconds, try to start again and it starts. I am totally baffled by this and when it is cold outside, it starts perfectly- no hesitation. Please, if anyone has/had this issue, let me know. It is becoming a nuisance taking my car back and forth to the dealer to have them tell me that nothing is "wrong" and that my car had a "hiccup"--- well this is a heck of a long case of the hiccups (around 4 months or so now). They reset the check engine light- and it comes back on- there IS something wrong that they can not find with all the diagnostic tests in the world. Please help me!!!
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loystock
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Re: 95 Maxima Crankshaft Position Sensor (please read)
Welcome to NICO.
Your problem could have been addressed earlier if you did not bump some old threads. I typically address queries, starting from the top of the forum.
So the problem may still be with the original trouble code - P1335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor-REF) or something else. It's possible that the harness/connector to the sensor is bad/marginal and problem shows up when engine compartment is warm. Make sure the sensors and related connectors are not contaminated with oil. Since the problem manifests only at 'hot' condition, then you should be able to start it when 'cold' and take to Autozone and the likes for a free OBD II scan to see if you have other trouble codes. Get a printout of trouble codes or copy them if you have to so we can do a better diagnostic.
Not knowing your skills level when it comes to cars, it's difficult to prescribe detailed troubleshooting procedure. I hope you know how to use a multimeter - that will really help.
There are simple things that you could do:
-Check that the battery connectors are clean and tight. Corrosion on the terminals will adversely affect starting.
-Assuming the battery connections are clean and tight, check that the battery voltage is >12.5 VDC with engine OFF. If voltage is low, engine cranking speed may not be sufficient for combustion. If the voltage is <12 VDC, it's useless for engine starting.
-Check air filter and replace as necessary.
-You may have a weak/failing pump and/or dirty fuel filter. Before starting the engine, select Ignition ON. This will allow the fuel pump to run for @ 5 seconds. You should be able to hear it hum, even from the driver position. This will also pressurize the fuel line. If you could start the car under your so called 'hot' condition, then problem lies with fuel delivery.
-The MAF sensor or connector could be failing (cold solder, cracked board that shows at 'hot' condition). This sensor is in the air intake, close to the air filter box. When you are having a starting problem, disconnect it (push tab on the plug until it clicks and you can then pull it out). With the MAF sensor disconnected, the ECM will use the default fuel/ignition map to start the engine. If you could start the engine under 'hot' condition with MAF sensor disconnected, most likely the MAF sensor is bad. You have to understand that with MAF sensor disconnected, the car will be in LIMP mode and engine speed is limited to <3000 RPM. Avoid driving the car in this condition.
Assuming the Crankshaft sensors and related harnesses are working and the MAF sensor and fuel delivery are good, then problem may be with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Another possibility is the Air Intake Temp Sensor. There are other possible causes, but let's start with the simple solution first.
Your problem could have been addressed earlier if you did not bump some old threads. I typically address queries, starting from the top of the forum.
So the problem may still be with the original trouble code - P1335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor-REF) or something else. It's possible that the harness/connector to the sensor is bad/marginal and problem shows up when engine compartment is warm. Make sure the sensors and related connectors are not contaminated with oil. Since the problem manifests only at 'hot' condition, then you should be able to start it when 'cold' and take to Autozone and the likes for a free OBD II scan to see if you have other trouble codes. Get a printout of trouble codes or copy them if you have to so we can do a better diagnostic.
Not knowing your skills level when it comes to cars, it's difficult to prescribe detailed troubleshooting procedure. I hope you know how to use a multimeter - that will really help.
There are simple things that you could do:
-Check that the battery connectors are clean and tight. Corrosion on the terminals will adversely affect starting.
-Assuming the battery connections are clean and tight, check that the battery voltage is >12.5 VDC with engine OFF. If voltage is low, engine cranking speed may not be sufficient for combustion. If the voltage is <12 VDC, it's useless for engine starting.
-Check air filter and replace as necessary.
-You may have a weak/failing pump and/or dirty fuel filter. Before starting the engine, select Ignition ON. This will allow the fuel pump to run for @ 5 seconds. You should be able to hear it hum, even from the driver position. This will also pressurize the fuel line. If you could start the car under your so called 'hot' condition, then problem lies with fuel delivery.
-The MAF sensor or connector could be failing (cold solder, cracked board that shows at 'hot' condition). This sensor is in the air intake, close to the air filter box. When you are having a starting problem, disconnect it (push tab on the plug until it clicks and you can then pull it out). With the MAF sensor disconnected, the ECM will use the default fuel/ignition map to start the engine. If you could start the engine under 'hot' condition with MAF sensor disconnected, most likely the MAF sensor is bad. You have to understand that with MAF sensor disconnected, the car will be in LIMP mode and engine speed is limited to <3000 RPM. Avoid driving the car in this condition.
Assuming the Crankshaft sensors and related harnesses are working and the MAF sensor and fuel delivery are good, then problem may be with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Another possibility is the Air Intake Temp Sensor. There are other possible causes, but let's start with the simple solution first.
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AshleyFromPA
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:41 pm
- Car: '95 Nissan Maxima
Re: 95 Maxima Crankshaft Position Sensor (please read)
Hello I am just updating my progress on this issue. I bought some fuel injection cleaner and it seems that my fuel economy is much better. I made it 282 miles with 3/4 tank of gas (12 gallons). I guess that is not great but much better than before. I think I was getting less than a HUMMER before. As for the crankshaft position sensor, I have yet to have that issue addressed. There is a lot going on right now. I recall the dealer telling me that I would not be left anywhere stranded so hopefully, it will not happen!! 