'95 J30 Won't start - need guidance

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Happy J30
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Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 10:57 am

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Hello all - here's what I have: 95 J30; 106,000 miles, purchased used 18 months ago, live in Cincinnati, Ohio and I don't care for the dealer here - overpriced parts, over-estimates on time, etc..It's been quite cold here lately. That said - here's the issue:

Car was a fine, albeit unhappy and a little rough riding yesterday in the cold running errands. This morning - wouldn't turn over, it's not the battery, sounded as if it were just about to turn over but wouldn't. Didn't want to flood it - so left it alone. At lunch tried it again - sounded as though it was even closer to turning over but alas - it couldn't.

My thoughts now are possible fuel line freeze up or the fuel pump has died.

No - the timing belt hasn't been changed yet, the 100K tune up hasn't been done yet, though these items will be done during this service visit. Oil changes and tire maintenance are followed religiously. Various fluid flushes including transmission have been done in past few months.

I hope this gives enough information to warrant at least a few good guesses from the gurus out there.Thanks in advance for your help!!


VimyJ
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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When you say "the engine won't turn over" do you mean that the starter is not spinning the engine? In that case, it's most likely that battery. If you mean the engine won't catch then, you could have ice blocking the fuel line. The J30 can flood relatively easily if you're not watching. If the engine seems on the verge of catching, put the accelerator to the floor and hold it there as you crank the engine. Just keep your foot there. Don't let it up in between attempts. Every time you depress the accelerator you add a fresh squirt of gas into the cylinders which adds to the flooding problem.

Your timing belt should be changed soon (as you said it would be) and while you're there change the hoses, drive belts, water pump and thermostat. There is also an idler pully and cam shaft seal if memory serves that should be dealt with. Spark plugs? Yes, if they haven't been done. Throttle body cleaning?

DAEDALUS
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Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Is the J engine an interference head type?

VimyJ
Posts: 1969
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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DAEDALUS wrote:Is the J engine an interference head type?
Yes.

Happy J30
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Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 10:57 am

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VimyJ - Thanks for the response. Yes, the engine is just about to catch so I'll try your suggestion regarding keeping my foot down. I know all to well about flooding while pumping your foot that's why I backed off. Timing belt, spark plugs are on the list of parts I'm ordering for replacement. Throttle Body cleaning and Drive belts were done/replaced 6 months ago. Can you elaborate on the Idler Pully and Cam Shaft Seal - are they just worth replacing while doing the other work? Also, I thought about the Water Pump and thermostat replacement - should we just go ahead and do this too while everything is apart? When you say hoses - this will sound stupid sorry - do you mean everything?I'm not a mechanic, nor plan to be one - but am willing to replace whatever is necessary BEFORE any real problems arise. I love this car and want it to last for a very long time! All tips are appreciated!Have a great day!!Kira

VimyJ
Posts: 1969
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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There is a wealth of great info on this site. Try doing a site search using some of the terms, proceedures and items previously described on this thread.

I can't remember for sure about the pulley but the cam seal is a service manual recommended replacement while performing the timing belt job.

Upper, lower, and bypass hoses must be replaced. They've had it by now. Same with the drive belts. Likewise the thermostat. How about a cooling system flush?

BTW, when I checked my old timing belt at 93k after the replacemnt it looked brand new but the bypass hose had developed a leak. The drive belts looked servicable but worn so I kept them for spares. The water pump bearing seemed perfect but no doubt there would be corrosion on the impeler. The thermstat was cooked and barely working. I didn't get the cam seal replaced. I hope that one doesn't end up biting me on the a**.

Doing these RR's on a J30 gives me a great sense of confidence in my car. The design and replacement parts are of the highest quality. I know that my J's systems will not fail. I had a 76 Valiant years ago. A great DIY engine but it went through crap replacement alternators and starters at a very annoying pace.

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Mayhem_J30
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Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 2:00 am
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Location: Louisville, KY

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Vimy, will pressing and depressing the accelerator peddle when car off actually flood the motor? Seems like since it is EFI that would be insignificant. I never touch the peddle as I just let the ECU hadnle the starting part. Edumucate me. :DHappy, you mentioned rough riding in the cold...how did you mean?

VimyJ
Posts: 1969
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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Mayhem_J30 wrote:Vimy, will pressing and depressing the accelerator peddle when car off actually flood the motor? Seems like since it is EFI that would be insignificant. I never touch the peddle as I just let the ECU hadnle the starting part. Edumucate me. :D
Man, you've got to believe that I've got vast experience with trying to start cars in -35C having grown up in Winnipeg (or "Winterplagued" as some have called it). Carberated engines are easier to start when the temps are extremely cold. They are strictly mechanical contrivances so you can manipulate them. Fuel injected engines were designed to mimic carberators when it came to starting them. With a carberator and a flooded engine, you press your foot to the floor to open the buterflies wide open letting lots of air into the clylinders clearing the flooded condition. With FI cars. pressing your foot to the floor signals the ECU to mimic a similar "wide open" butterly allowing the cylinders to clear. Unfortunately, you can't whip the air cleaner off and plug your hand over the open carberator which was a trick that often worked ("What out for a backfire, eh?"). When you hold the accelerator down slightly (like we used to do with caberated cars, eh?) to start a FI engine you are shooting extra gas into the cylinder along with the normal spurt of gas that happed when you turned the key. Block heaters, eh? and a warm good battery, eh? are the keys to starting in very cold weather (-10F).

(You can tell a true Canadian, eh? by their ability to use "eh?" in the middle of a sentance, eh?):D

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Mayhem_J30
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LOL. thank eh.

Happy J30
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Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 10:57 am

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Chris - to further explain the rough ride in the cold - the car just felt a little sluggish like it needed a kick in the pants - just wasn't the same, usual smooth ride. It didn't cough or sputter or anything just felt "off". Thanks again for your help!!

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Mayhem_J30
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Location: Louisville, KY

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did you recently buy some gas?

fred
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Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 7:45 pm
Car: polo -tennis

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hello happy j30 - I'm having the Same problem with my 95 j30 ..... what was it that fixed your car.... it might help me! thanks fred

email - [email protected]

Happy J30
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Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 10:57 am

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Hi Fred - I haven't done anything yet to the car however as Chris asked about my recent purchase of Gas - yes, I had filled up that morning with mid-grade gas. It's possible that the gas and cold weather slightly froze up the fuel line - and I just didn't want to flood the engine when starting it so I was too tentative with the car. I followed VimyJ's advice for starting the car and that was it! Haven't had trouble with it at all since then. However, I am ordering new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, cam shaft seals, Idler pulley, and new Rad. hoses to be installed at the end of next week. Will be asking a separate question in a different post. Can't imagine that helped you at all - best of luck with yours!


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