95 J30 brake service

[drivingj30]

I started hearing the squealing noise from two front wheel weeks ago. Now the noise goes on and off. Just get a inspection at firestone and suggested to replace the pad and rotor.

I was given a quote of $270 for parts( pads and rotor) and labor for two front wheels. Is this a fair price? I got a friend got pad and rotor replaced for 4 wheels at $400.

And I read some post about metal noise while over some bump, I got the same problem, especially after the rain. People talked about tension rod, and what is the fair price for this work on J30

Thank you for response.

[greenwar]

I got my brake pads replaced on my 93 J30 with 123K. I paid my mechanic $50 for the brake pad replacement. Rotor replacement would have costed possibly $50 more for all 4 wheels.

How if they are quoting you $270 - possibly they are not using the OEM brake pads and rotors.. I bought the set of pads alone for $84 dollars - they were OEM ceramic pads. Rotors were far more expensive at $92 dollars each. I didn't have to change the rotors. A lot of times the rotors can be machined if they are not too thin and have no serious damage to them. Many places like carx, firestone will insist you change the rotors calipers etc even if they could be machined/oiled to bring up to spec.

Using low quality rotors -- will cause warpage due to the weight of the J30.

Aside from all the blurbs above - if they are using quality rotors and pads - then $270 for pad and rotor replacement is not too bad considering that the parts alone will take up most of it.

Just my $0.02..

[drivingj30]

Hi Greenwar,

Thank you for your detailed explanation.

How can I tell that the parts they will be using are qualify parts?

I don't know too much of the parts, but from what you said, it seems that OEM parts are relatively price competitive. How can I tell what kind of part they will be using.

Thank you.

[yodawill2000]

I got mine turned and replaced the Pads with OEM.Nary a problem !!And didnt hurt the billfold.

[greenwar]

Hi Greenwar,

Thank you for your detailed explanation.

How can I tell that the parts they will be using are qualify parts?

I don't know too much of the parts, but from what you said, it seems that OEM parts are relatively price competitive. How can I tell what kind of part they will be using.

Thank you.

Hmm, you can ask them if they are using oem parts. Most likely they aren't. If they aren't you can ask them if you can bring your own parts and then how much they will charge. Another option will be to find a nissan shop (brake work is not hard - someone who has done it before will be able to do it on a J30) and get the job done there. That way you can request them to consider machining the existing rotors. If the rotors are thick enough they most likely will be able to machine them and you would be fine.

Regarding the brake pads - I am not sure if there are other cheap alternatives. May be other members can shed some light there.

[Defiant]

I discourage the use of nation-wide chain auto repair companies. Although there are exceptions, in my experience I have encountered the use of used parts as new and similar deception. Just buyer beware as always.

[drivingj30]

Thank you so much for sharing all these. you guys are so nice. I got more ideas about what to do next.

[drivingj30]

By the way, any member on this board knows of any good mechanics in richmond, va area for infinity?

Thank you.

[purplesignal]

I just changed out my front brake pads...with cheapest semi-metallics from AutoZone = $20+... Changing out the pads is not that hard...it's sort of like getting sued...the first time is the worst...

As for noise going over bumps...it could be your tension rods and/or steering rack. I am about to get my whole steering rack replaced. Labor by itself in at the shop I go to is about $200.

I hope this helps.

[drivingj30]

Is tention rod or steering rack a security issue? I mean do I have to fix it urgently?

Thanks

[purplesignal]

I drove around with loose and leaking steering rack for about a month (I had just bought the car used). I think my mechanic mentioned something dreadful if the steering rack were to go completely. I would say that if you are replacing the steering rack, to replace soon....if only to relieve the mental stress... I was mentally worried for a month driving around with a loose, leaky steering rack.

I would say to go ahead and change out your brake pads first...again this is cheap. I replaced mine before I replaced the steering rack and tension rods. See if this solves your problem. If not, have a mechanic diagnose it...there are shops that will diagnose and quote for free.

[Nissansbitch]

You can not "oil" a caliper. You can not rebuild them either. If it's bad, it's bad. And you can't even test that. You just have to wait for it to start sticking, and eating pad or pulling. As for Firestone requirements, they don't require every brake component be replaced. In fact, they have a lot of people that audit the work orders, to make sure stuff doesn't get recommended that doesn't need be, and stuff that does, does. I believe you are given an inspection sheet clearly showing your pad measurements, and rotor specs. And by rotor specs, you're current measurement and the minumum measurement. "Pad slaps" are bad ideas for a lot of reasons. If your rotor spec is under the minimum, replace them. The pistons in the calipers only move so far. The thinner your rotor, the farther they have to move out, eventually moving past where they are stable, and causing brake failure. This also ruins the pistons in the calipers. Your pad measurements are either in millimeters or 32nd's, but if the measurement varies from side to side, by two or more on the axle set, replace the calipers. Ask next brake inspection to get a measurement on the inboard AND outboard pad. If those vary, replace both calipers. Rotors, calipers, and wheel cylinders should always be replaced in axle sets.