'95 Infiniti G20, auto, 125K miles
I recovered a Code 105 using the ecu screw method. Questions:1. A search on the internet suggests this code indicates a problem with the egr circuit. Could someone please tell me if this is correct? Is there more specific information available for this code?2. I removed the egr valve, egr tube and bpt. I cleaned them (they were not that dirty) and the throttle body while I was in the vicinity (remarkably clean). I checked all the vacuum connections and reassembled. I reset the ecu. The code returned after a few days of driving.3. Is it possible that the problem is the evap/egr selonoid? 4. I searched but I can't seem to find the evap/egr selonoid on this car. Where in the engine compartment is it located?
'95 g20 code 105
The code 105 has to do with the egr selenoid circuit. It can either be a bad selenoid (unlikely) or corroded connectors (likely). I suggest that you disconnect the connector from the selenoid (it is on a bracket just under the egr valve) and scratch up (gently) the male part with a small screwdriver and the female part with a thin stiff wire. Clean both with electronic component spray cleaner. After you clean it, check for voltage (about 12 V) at the connector when you put the key in the "on" position. If no voltage you will need to clean the connector at the ecu and check the voltage there directly. The least likely cause of no voltage would be a broken wire. Check for continuity if you suspect a broken or crimped wire.
There are descriptions on the web of how to bench test the selenoid if it comes to that.
There are descriptions on the web of how to bench test the selenoid if it comes to that.
On my 95 g20: The egr solenoid valve is located on a bracket just below the egr valve. It is connected to the bracket by a threaded stud and a 10-mm nut. There is one electrical connector and three vacuum hoses attached. Remove the nut to let the valve hang by the hoses and electrical connector. Remove the hoses (mark them for easy reattachment) and then get the electrical connector loose. On mine, there was a metal band at the base of the connector that had to be gently pried off to remove the connector.
While you have the valve off, you ought to bench test it by applying 12 V to see if it engages (you'll hear it). Also, measure the voltage at teh connector with the ignition in the "on" position. It should be 12 V. My valve passed the bench test the first time I tested it but the second go around, it failed. I assume that it was nearing complete failure the first time.
Yestereday, I replaced the solenoid valve with one I purchased at Scottsdale. We'll see if this permenantly solves the problem.
While you have the valve off, you ought to bench test it by applying 12 V to see if it engages (you'll hear it). Also, measure the voltage at teh connector with the ignition in the "on" position. It should be 12 V. My valve passed the bench test the first time I tested it but the second go around, it failed. I assume that it was nearing complete failure the first time.
Yestereday, I replaced the solenoid valve with one I purchased at Scottsdale. We'll see if this permenantly solves the problem.
Your egr valve will not function properly unless the solenoid is functioning correctly. Whether this will make your car feel sluggish or not, I do not know. I doubt it.
In this case, the open circuit means that the computer is expecting to measure 12 V but it is measuring no voltage. A bad solenoid would give an open circuit. It could also be a corroded connector at the solenoid, a cut wire leading from the computer to solenoid, or a malfunctioning computer.
In this case, the open circuit means that the computer is expecting to measure 12 V but it is measuring no voltage. A bad solenoid would give an open circuit. It could also be a corroded connector at the solenoid, a cut wire leading from the computer to solenoid, or a malfunctioning computer.
