95 engine problem.....

[Xj220gt]

I recently swapped in an s13 ka24de into my 95 because my old engine developed rod knock. After I finished installing everything on my car, I turned on engine and it sounded great.

I still had not driven it.

so, I finish putting everything together and start it again to let it warm up.

Warms up great, no problems, but then! after I drive it about 3 feet and let it idle some more because I forgot my wallet, it overheated.

Turned off car and realized that a coolant hose was leaking a bit, so I fixed it and let my car cool down.

REAL PROBLEM!!!!

I turn the car back on and it hesitates and dies. I can keep it alive by giving it gas and it will not over heat, but it will still die. When I give it rev it up, th needle sometimes bounces around for a bit, then Sometimes it just idles ok for a bit, then gets rough, then ok and then dies. I tried changing the MAF and no luck. Checked around for vacuum leaks, nothing.

I checked for codes and p0100 came up. Any idea what might be causing this besides the MAF? what could the overheat have caused to malfunction?

I have tried searching, and have not come up with much info.... any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Dazzla]

i think it has to do with whether your car was obd1 or obd2

[Jarroy2]

sucks

[Xj220gt]

I swapped the intake and exhaust manifolds onto the s13ka, so all the obd stuff is still the same (OBD I)

[Wc240]

i would say to step back a minuete, then, start over! Go over everything again, make sure vac lines are plumbed right, connectors are right and tight. make sure you did the wiring right,stare at the diagrams while looking at your wiring. could be something very simple like that. start there first so you can scratch that off the list

[Fibre guy]

For everyone else who doesn't know that reads this, P0100 is the trouble code for "MAF". Is the MAF you replaced it with 100% sure to work?Did you check the harness for any fried or pinched wires? If not maybe one of the pins in the connector is bent or corroded. Sometimes the simple answer is the right answer. Unless it got REALLY hot i wouldn't worry too much, though you might want to check why its over heating.No brainer answers but I normally overlook the easy ones when something breaks on me. Good luck

[Wc240]

crap, i didnt read that it had a code. fail

[Xj220gt]

The overheating might have been because of the leaking coolant. I had a puddle under the car when I checked. I believe that is fixed now. no more over heat.

The MAF I tried is currently working on my brothers 240sx.

It got hot, but not hot enough to shut itself down or anything really. I have not checked the wires, but will when I get a chance. The engine was running perfectly before the over heat and I have not messed with the wires since.

[Fibre guy]

It's easy to pinch and cut a few wires when 400+ pounds of metal bump into it.

[Xj220gt]

I checked out all my wires and made sure that none were pinched or looked beat up. still nothing.

i disconnect the maf and it settles down for a tiny bit, but eventually starts back up. the engine is also making a strange noise around the intake manifold area. sounds like i have a leak of some sort, but i spray brake fluid and still nothing.

has anyone had a similar problem?

i did find a cut wire near the back of the transmission... it wasnt cut, it looks like they (two wires) were accidentally pulled out of the plug because the plug is still in the harness. i made sure they were not touching anything and i tried looking it up. i think it is a neutral switch something sometihng.



it is the one behind the speed sensor.

i doubt that has much to do with it, but any help would be very appreciated.

[Wc240]

you sprayed brake fluid? please say this is a type-o.try to get your hands on a smoke machine, or use propane next time

[Xj220gt]

brake cleaner*

[Fibre guy]

You can check for vacuum leaks the same way as boost leaks. Just find a PVC end cap that fits where the MAF go's. Then drill and tap with 1/4 npt. Thread a compressor chuck into it and then turn your compressor regulator down to about 10-20 psi. Simply fill it up and listen for leaks. A mechanics stethoscope is a very cheap and useful tool to use for this too.