95 240sx won't start after new head gasket

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cf1203
Posts: 650
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 2:36 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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I has a new head gasket installed on my 240 a few weeks ago. After car was put together, it will not start up. We have checked and double-checked the timing and everything seems to be right. There if fuel and spark getting to the motor, but the motor seems to not even attempt to start up. Any ideas of what this could be?


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yessir240
Posts: 1673
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 4:56 pm
Car: s14 zenki

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is the crank turning?

cf1203
Posts: 650
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 2:36 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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yessir240 wrote:is the crank turning?
yes, car is turning over, but will not start

bigperk11
Posts: 43
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:32 am
Car: 91 nissan 240sx

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kind of off topic but how much work does it take to change the head gaskett

znimtz
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:19 am
Car: 1989 240SX Hatch w/ AT & KA24E = TURD

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I just did the same EXACT thing. (head gasket and timing kit)

I have a 89 240sx with the SOHC KA24E but it just turns over and wont run. The timing marks are lined up correctly according to the FSM. So I assume the timing is correct. Every hose and wire is hooked up. I am fairly sure I hooked up the vacuum hoses correctly. I labeled everything but the e.g.r. hoses and the 3 hose connections at the bracket on the rear of the cylinder head. Anyway,

I don't have any antifreeze in it, but I have new oil in it. is this causing it?

and I didn't bother putting all the belts on, but these are 'accessories' - so its not like that would make it not start, right? I just want to make sure it runs before I button everything up, ya heard?

I am jumping my 240 with another car because my battery is crappy. I know you should have a strong battery, but if it turns over, say 100 times but wont start, I doubt its a weak battery making it not start. It also seems to be turning over fairly quick. sometimes it sounds like it wants to fire on a few cylinders but then just turns over. I noticed sometimes the number 1 cylinder spark plug gets wet with gas, although I never took the injectors off or out of the intake manifold. I'm not sure whats causing it to get soaked... bad spark? I have a new cap, and the rotor isn't new but looks ok? I don't have new plug wires... but they worked on the car before I did the head gasket and timing job... so what gives!? =(

I also have it jacked up on jack stands, maybe a foot or so. Would this cause it to not start? I still have to bolt up the sway bar and put a front tire on, so I didn't want to lower the vehicle just to have to raise it back up.

what am I missing!? I am desperate for a vehicle and I need to get this pile of bolts running! Thanks for any help!
Modified by znimtz at 9:48 AM 1/3/2008

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low91240sx
Posts: 191
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:11 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX LE/2005 Nissan Altima

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Okay I changed my head gasket last october ( and yes it's a lot of work not so much hard just a pain in the arse) anyway i was having the same problem and you said that the spark plug 1 was getting very wet with gas? i also experienced that you are flooding it. okay first off make sure you have gas lol ( no comment on that one.. " but what finally did the trick is taking out the fuse to the fuel pump and turning it a few times then after say 3 times of turning it WITH OUT the fuse in have someone place it back in when the car is turning like when it sounds like it wants to start don't put the pedal to the floor or pump it it's fuel injected your just flooding it if anything hold the pedal half way down until it cranks. hope it helps you guys out but thats what did it for me.

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480sx
Posts: 4085
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:27 pm
Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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If you have spark and fuel its one of two things. Either its cam timing, meaning you put your cams back together incorrectly or its ignition timing. If its the later, all you need to do is take the dizzy back out and put it in right. Even rotating the dizzy all the way around while trying to crank on it will tell you if its ignition timing.

If its not that, then you need to take the cams back out and retime the engine. Its really not that hard once you learn how to do it right.

Did you take the chain off the idler sprocket or did you leave the bottom timing chain intact? If you know your lower timing chain is good then you dont have to worry about it.

What i do is rotate the crank until the dot lines up with the mark on the idler sprocket. Then set the engine at TDC. At this point, the dot on the idler sprocket is at about the 2 o' clock position. Then take your upper timing chain and find the three marks on it. There will be one that is a funky color, silver, or yellow or w/e. Then there will be two a different color. On mine its a SLIGHTLY darker color than the chain you can barely tell. The single mark lines up on the idler pulley to a little indent at the 5-6 o' clock. The other two marks line up with the dots on the cam sprockets. Your cams should be roughly at 10 and 12 o' clock at TDC.

Hope this helps a bit, i had some issues with it the first time i tore my engine apart too.
Modified by 480sx at 5:13 PM 1/4/2008

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rogoman
Posts: 848
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:44 pm
Car: 1991 240SX FB
2012 Altima 2.5 S

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This is in addition to 480SX's post:

To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC compression stroke. Remove the upper timing chain cover. The top end of the lower timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the large idler sprocket gear mark. The upper timing chain mating (gold) mark should be at the small idler sprocket gear mark. The other two chain mating marks should at their cam gear marks.

Here's a picture:




jman211111
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:05 am
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx

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hi about your 240sx check the ecm for codes. also make shure your tps is set correctly i think it should be at 2 k ohms at closed throttle but check the repair manule to be shure. and make shure all conections are pluged in.

jman211111
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:05 am
Car: 1993 nissan 240sx

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Znimtz you [QUOTE=znimtz]I just did the same EXACT thing. (head gasket and timing kit)

I have a 89 240sx with the SOHC KA24E but it just turns over and wont run. The timing marks are lined up correctly according to the FSM. So I assume the timing is correct. Every hose and wire is hooked up. I am fairly sure I hooked up the vacuum hoses correctly. I labeled everything but the e.g.r. hoses and the 3 hose connections at the bracket on the rear of the cylinder head. Anyway,

I don't have any antifreeze in it, but I have new oil in it. is this causing it?

and I didn't bother putting all the belts on, but these are 'accessories' - so its not like that would make it not start, right? I just want to make sure it runs before I button everything up, ya heard?

well you do need coolant in it or the ecm wont read the correct temp at the coolant temp sensor, also put your altenator belt on. also make shur and check the tps (throttle position sensor) look in the fsm for specs on the tps position, if it is addjustible on your engine you will need a ohm meter to addjust it to the correct position.

suprcleans14
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:43 pm
Car: 95 240sx w/ s14 blacktop SR

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Did u remove your oil pump? It is possible to put it back in wrong cusing your distributor to be firing at the top of the compression stroke rather then at the top of the compression stroke. UNDER THIS CONDITION YOUR TIMING WILL APPEAR NORMAL! its just a complete crank turn out. Ive had this same problem before.


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