I'd start by pulling the slave cylinder and making sure your throwout fork isn't all loosey goosey or something, although if it was, you'd probably just push the clutch and your slave would just keep moving until it over-extended itself. You could either record this while you press the clutch, or have someone look at it while you do that and verify you actually get movement at the slave.

Did you bleed the valve by the frame rail, near the slave? I had a hard time with mine, and it turned out (after hours of headache) there was air trapped near that valve.

In addition to the above good advice, when you first start with a clutch bleed, there is no pressure and you have to lift the pedal each time for each pump for a while. Give it like 10 pumps between opening and closing the bleeder. Pressure should build during the bleeding process, still lifting to pump, but less. By the time you're done, it should feel firm and return with each pump. Finally you adjust your pedal just a bit to have it engage/ disengage at the right time per FSM page CL-4. The proper procedure is in the FSM on page CL-5 and works every time for me. If the booster piping is gone, skip that part of the bleeding, still works according to instruction.
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... sx/1995/CL

PS - I bought an off brand master cylinder and the actual piston rod thing that the clutch pedal connects to was too short so it never functioned properly and I had to go back to the OEM unit (which turned out to be fine and I was just wasting money hoping to have a 'new' system).

Thanks a ton everyone. Ill try out these methods and let everyone know if anything worked!

5MOK5 thanks a ton! The little valve was exactly the problem. Much appreciation.

And thanks for all other input. I really do appreciate it

I thought you didn't touch the hydraulics, so you shouldn't have needed to bleed it.
But yeah, if you still have that little damper box, get rid of that bugger! You can run the hard line directly to your slave cylinder.