94Q mis-match suspension replace/upgrade

[Black stallion]

Thanks to you guys I finally replaced my upper links and tension rods(parts were in my trunk for 2 years). Since I only drove the car about 1000 miles a year (maybe less) and had previously planned to sell it, this wasn't high priority until now.

I also changed tire sizes from 225/40/18 to 245/45/18. I have the factory '02 Q wheels on my Q. I changed my steering rack about 5k miles ago (warranty) just because Louisiana has such wonderful roads!

Now I want to make sure I get the max from my suspension (allignment, tire wear, ride, etc.) I had the front struts done about the same time as the rack and I'll have the stabilizer links done this week.

My issue now is do I go with stock rears or can I put a set of blues on the rear and wait for the front to wear out?

Also, what other components do you replace/upgrade to whip that rear end into shape? How do you get rid of that "squat look" that eats up the inside of your rear tires?

I apologize if this has been covered before, but I haven't found any posts with quite the same issue. Maybe someone can shed some light or point me in the right direction. Thanks again

[maxnix]

Usually shock absorbers are replaced in sets. Q45tech runs black on the front with bules on the rear with his Eibach springs and a model rear sway bar.

[Q45tech]

Excessive negative rear camber comes from wear in rubber bushings in camber rod and bending in the subframe mounting tab for this bar assumming you are using oem rear springs [not lowered]. Also the rubber in the lower arm can allow the bottom to stretch outward allowing the top arm to move inward. Doesn't take muck an 1/8" at bottom and top and you are out of spec!

Ride height is mostly springs however the rear shocks have a nitrogen charge which can lift things a few % when brand new.

Wider tires and wheels make the negative camber look more excessive, alignment is the only method.

Rear camber range - 1.58 degrees t0 - 0.58 degree ideal = -1.08 deg

[Black stallion]

What usually needs replacing in the rear end. I don't want to pay for a 4 wheel allignment on worn components. I can get my parts super cheap so I don't mind replacing.

[maxnix]

Think rubber. Inspect for cracks, hardness and leaks of silicon fluid. Measure hub runout.

[Q45tech]

Nothing that controls camber is super cheap as you will find when you replace the parts. The bushings are not available separately and the arms must be purchased new.............some of the bushings have asymetrical hardness so just any old busjing that fits won't work correctly.

The subframe tabs [mounts] are welded on most people wait until the subframe springs a leak in silicone filled isolators ...........too expensive to replace just to fix camber.

[Black stallion]

Thanks again Guys, I guess I'll spring for some blues,Eibachs, & frequent tire rotations.

Has anyone heard of IPD sway bars and know if they make them for a Q?

[maxnix]

You don't need Eibachs, unless you want them. Like all lowering springs, they have their own set of problems. Read Q45tech's posts.

Rear model a bar and front t bar is the best and cheapest combination, with new rubber mounts and link bumpers.

[Black stallion]

I recently saw pics of Rex's Q with the 18's 245/45 and with eibach's. It looked sweet, but if it will cause more problems, I have enough of them already. I think I'll just keep the stance I have (looks fine to me) throw on some blues and a rear a-model sway bar and call it Christmas. Thanks for the input