94Q List of jobs--AC condensor, O2 sensor, Cat pipe, and blower resistor

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Qgrappler
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Well, having not been around for some time, I now am finding that my 94Q is in need of some things. My son drives it, and is now home from school, and has noticed no cold air from ac, fan stays on always-even when set on off. I drove to a dealer today, and on the the way got a Check engine light, with some mildly rough running of the engine (although no threat to stall or anything.) And, there is that leak in the exhaust system that we've been hearing.

Dealer diagnosis is AC condensor, $860, O2 sensor $401, exhaust tube (before the cat $1082. Ouch.

I think I could do the O2 sensor myself, and I might be able to get midas or someone to cut a length of pipe to fix the leak, which is prior to the drivers side cat convertor. I think I can do the blower resistor myself (dealer didn't quote on that, just mentioned it on the way out) but I don't have any good alternatives for the AC. In fact, I'm not sure the tech is absolutely certain thats what it is, since he responded to my "are you sure its a condensor" with the "yes, there's oil down there around it". I'm not sure thats the way to tell, or even if there is. In any case, assuming he's right, any suggestions for any alternatives. I hate to drop 2500 on these items.

It looks like I could get the OEM parts, including the exhaust for about 1100 + shipping, but I'm not sure I could do anything with the AC condensor. BTW, seems to me if the condensor had leaked and there was no coolant, my compressor wouldn't engage, but if I switcht the settings from economy to automatic, I believe I hear it coming on. Anyone else believe that is inconsistent with the condensor hole diagnosis?

Also, I wonder if the blower resistro failure and the no ac cooling are related. Likewise the o2 sensor and the hole in the exhaust. Maybe if I fix the exhaust the o2 sensor will clear up.?


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elwesso
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Personally what i would do is take the car to a person who really knows AC systems, with a printoutof the FSM on the HA section... IT had 4-5 pages on how to diagnose problems using a manifold gauge set.. If your handy, you could buy a manifold gauge set and most likely diagnose it yourself... Regardless, your probably going to have to replace your receiver dryer too.... I dont think theres any reason youd need to replace the condensor for unless its sprung a leak?

I dont have my FSM on me and my knowledge of AC systems is very limited... However if the compressor is coming on, and its not getting cold then then its charged correctly, which also means that theres not a leak... So take my advice as a grain of salt until someone else chimes in

THe o2s will cost you about $100 for both from sparkplugs.com. get the NTKs and the short lead is good enough.... Shouldnt take more than a couple hours to replace them.... PITA job, though, i might pay someone to shred their hands on the exhuast...

If its a small enough exhaust leak, maybe a muffler shop could patch it, that should be fairly cheap.. Id take it in to an exhaust place and see what they say.

The darlington resistor (the blower resitor you speak of) you might try and get from one of our parts Qs. A lot of times that indicates the motor is working too hard so id take it out, clean and oil it up real nice!!

Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Thanks

I looked at the car again today, and went through the onboard diagnostics for the ac, which seem to all check out, even the fan. However, the fan does stay on if you press the off button, which seems to indicate a failure if the "amplifier" unit (the blower resistor). I wonder if that failure could be the overall culprit somehow.

I also double checked the ac clutch engaging.....it does. To me, that means I must have R 134 pressure within the correct limits, and if that's so, the dealer has to have been incorrect that I need a new condensor. Anyone who thinks I could be wrong and the clutch could engage even without R 134 pressure, let me know!!!!I'll take it to an ac specialist to check the manifold pressures. I found the section in the service manual that describes the diabnosis.

maxnix
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Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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I had a little valve closing tapping noise (click...click....clidk) audible on one of my G50. $10 and a visit to a welding shop took car of a couple of perforations right before and after the catyltic convertor.

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gniknave
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Qgrappler wrote: Anyone who thinks I could be wrong and the clutch could engage even without R 134 pressure, let me know!!!!I'll take it to an ac specialist to check the manifold pressures. I found the section in the service manual that describes the diabnosis.
Judging by what I see come through this shop I'd suspect the expansion valve or receiver-dryer.


Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Decided to see if I could find the local Meneicke man to kill two birds with one stone. Not successful...local shop had no ac specialist, but did look at the hole (its right in front of the ds convertor, and guessed it would cost about 600 or so for a new one.

Left and went looking for someone with manifold gauges, and found a valvoline quick oil change with a big ac banner. The techs there agreed with me that the compressor shouldn't run if the condensor leaked. He hooked up his automatic machine, and instantaly saw that I had pressure. Ran it through a diagnosis cycle, and in the end added about a pound of R134a. Now it blows cold air. I still have the fan running with the system off, so I'll give Scottsdale a ring for that part.

I am truly frosted (haha) at the dealer. He must not have done anything to check the ac other than to ........well, I don't know what he could have done. Maybe memorized the list of most expensive parts that take the least time to install.

Thanks for the suggestions.

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elwesso
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Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT
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Qgrappler wrote:Decided to see if I could find the local Meneicke man to kill two birds with one stone. Not successful...local shop had no ac specialist, but did look at the hole (its right in front of the ds convertor, and guessed it would cost about 600 or so for a new one.

Left and went looking for someone with manifold gauges, and found a valvoline quick oil change with a big ac banner. The techs there agreed with me that the compressor shouldn't run if the condensor leaked. He hooked up his automatic machine, and instantaly saw that I had pressure. Ran it through a diagnosis cycle, and in the end added about a pound of R134a. Now it blows cold air. I still have the fan running with the system off, so I'll give Scottsdale a ring for that part.

I am truly frosted (haha) at the dealer. He must not have done anything to check the ac other than to ........well, I don't know what he could have done. Maybe memorized the list of most expensive parts that take the least time to install.

Thanks for the suggestions.
I knew it..... R134 is very sensitive to the charge...

Im wondering if maybe thedual pressure switch is messed up?? oh well.. at least it works now!!

The condensor is a PITA to replace...


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