94na Hesitation and Poor Acceleration

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
xx94sliktopxx
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon May 24, 2021 6:13 am
Car: 1994 Nissan 300ZX NA

Post

Hi All im new to the forums, I tried to search but didn't see too much on the issue I am having.

My Z starts up first crank never gives me an issue starting it idles around 12-1300 after its warmed up, I know thats a little high?. once I start to drive the car it pulls great has full power and everything, as soon as I am going for about 2-5 miles the car has got to operating temp it starts to get super sluggish when I give it more throttle it will go but its very slow and acts like its misfiring. however when I let out the throttle and give it less it doesn't hesitate as much. I am stumped it idles fine starts right up and seems to have no issues except once its warmed up and I give it more throttle.

so far I have replaced

1. MAF(new)
2. ECU from a 93na in working order. ( my last eco was shot and caused the car to max out at 4kRPM)
3. most of the vacuum lines are new I have checked for any leaks and havnt seen any issues.
4. I did adjust the TPS but not sure If I did it correctly.
5. new plugs are NGKs

any help would be greatly appreciated.


User avatar
NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

Post

Sounds like your O2s are bad. If your cars drivability is disturbed once it switches to closed loop operation. Also the idle is supposed to be around 750 so 1200 is extremely high.

Is the MAF OEM (orange label N62) if not then you can almost bet that the one you have is at the least contributing to your issues. In my 18 years working on Z32s I've never heard of anyone having success with an aftermarket MAF unless the car was tuned specifically for it (think high a** HP applications).

"Most vacuum lines" means there is still a potential for a vacuum leak which would also cause issues that are more prevalent during closed loop operation because the ECU is confused by the difference in MAF and O2 readings.

TPS is pretty easy, the idle goes up one way and down the other way. You can use a multimeter to read the output if you want to get surgical. Steps and voltages are avaialble in the FSM in my sig

NGK doesn't mean anything. Are they the correct plugs for the engine, if you bought Autozone special NGKs then this could be contributing (though less than the other potential issues) to your problem. These engines like OE/OEM with the extended threads (I always forget what the technical term is). Your absolute BEST bet is to buy the OEM plugs per the part number in the FSM.

xx94sliktopxx
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon May 24, 2021 6:13 am
Car: 1994 Nissan 300ZX NA

Post

I will check my 02 sensors, no the MAF is a cheapie I bought off eBay, could be the cause I will switch back to the orange label and see if that helps. can I addict the TPS with car started?


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