Note:
-120PSI compression across all 4 cylinders. runs rich as F#^k but doesnt seem to burn any oil
-225k miles
Mods:
-Rear battery relocate
-2.5" straight pipes (stupid, i know)
-Manual swap
-stage 1 clutch
-big thick cold air intake with tiny oem MAF
-coupe doors
-no ac (LOOKING TO BUY THESE PARTS. I WILL BUY THEM IF DIRT CHEAP)
-Isis radiator
-slotted rotors
Problems:
-Low idle (especially with headlights and/or blower on)
-Sputters from 1200rpm - 3000rpm when cold (50 F and below)
-Even when warm has no power from that RPM range
-obnoxiously loud (duh)
-grinding (metal on metal sound) when i shift the car in reverse. Appears to be coming from the rear right axle.
-fuzzy ground (when charging cell phone through cigarette lighter makes whining sound that corresponds to engine RPM)
-left side headlight motor goes up but not down (wiring or motor..?)
-15mpg (300 miles out of a tank.. yes, I do drive economically )
-Vibrates at high speeds
Car has new:
-alternator
-battery
-clutch
-flywheel
-plugs
-wires
Things I have done so far to attempt to improve various problems:
-Clean IACV (it was black and grimy, now its clean and engine idles at 1000RPM without blower or headlights on)
-Clean MAF and tighten vacuum lines with hose clamps (they were loose, now engine seems more responsive)
-Oil detergent (Oil light no longer comes on at idle, it used to flicker occasionally)
I assume (correct me if wrong) :
-the bad ground is due to the rear battery conversion. The moron that owned the car before me used SUB AMP WIRE. WTF? Thick gauge, but come on..
-the low idle with the use of more electronics is the engine attempting to compensate for the greater demand, but cant, because the max amount of fuel per air ratio is being applied, due to the lack of no catalytic converter
-possibly needs the o2 sensor replaced
-Vibrating is due to wheel bearings (the steering wheel does not vibrate at high speeds, the whole car does lol)
Things I plan to do (before buying SR20.. fixing these things to make the car operate normally)
-Add a stock cat(need back pressure), to bolt to the stock headers, then eventually ditch the 2.5" or 3 inch (not sure didnt measure) and get something reasonable (am i fine with just new cat? don't want something too loud..I like my music and girls like riding in my car... but its gotta be loud when i step on it
)-Replace battery terminals and wire with REAL car battery cables
-Replace left side motor (or is wiring bad due to manual swap..?)
-Check out wheel bearings
Car might seem like a piece of s***.. but I really like it a lot.
So..... how many more years or miles can I get out of this motor? Also, what do you guys think of my solutions to the problems? What should I do differently, etc..
Thanks in advance