I've purchased a sweet 94 Q45t and will be picking it up this weekend. I'm very excited! It's really a sweet machine and once I drove it I knew I had to have it. I was very surprised at the lack of rear body roll for such a large and heavy car.
I've done a lot of research on this model, but I'm finding conflicting info so I thought I'd post to get it straight from you gents in the know...
If you had just purchased a 94 Q45t with 150k on the odometer, what would you do next? I've heard Infiniti will do an inspection and let you know the things they find wrong. Would you pay to have this done? What should I be looking for?
I have that buzzing sound coming from the rear deck which I have learned is either the fuel pump or the fuel pump controlling unit. The fuel pump at infinitypartsusa is $250, which seems kinda steep. Would you go ahead and do this or wait for the inspection?
I also detected a hard downshift (not sure what gear) but I though I'd have the transmission flushed and serviced to see if it will remedy the problem. Anything else I should know about this? Can any shop do this or should I pay the dealer?
Are there other things you would recommend for a new owner to do in terms of maintenance? Any site I should check for details on preventative maintenence in the future?
Lastly, what's the difference with the Q45t versus the regular Q45 in 1994?
Thanks in advance, I know this is a lot of questionsScott McClure1994 Q45t
ps. I am a web designer and producer by trade, so I may be of service in setting up a site with FAQs if we can collect the data. I'm also more than willing to do web work in trade for performance parts for my new machine. JWT ECU, TCU and such. Let me know if I can help.
94 Q45t New Owner - First Steps?
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Mayhem_J30
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mccluredude,Welcome to our home. You can access lots of info by using the search function, if that's how you got the conflicting info then we apologize.Did the previous owner keep any maintenance records? Get a Service History report for your Q from your local dealer. All they need is your VIN# to get it. Review it to determine what's been done and what needs to be done.If timing guides are not listed, I believe your vehicle is a ticking time bomb. Those new to be replaced ASAP! The Q owners will chime in shortly. On NICO's main page there's an article on this in great detail. Just search for 'guides' (this is not in the forum section).Lastly, send us pictures!
Mayhem_J30 wrote:mccluredude,If timing guides are not listed, I believe your vehicle is a ticking time bomb. Those new to be replaced ASAP! The Q owners will chime in shortly. On NICO's main page there's an article on this in great detail. Just search for 'guides' (this is not in the forum section).Lastly, send us pictures!
94's are safe.
Only one was eevr known that wasn't,. I know I myself wrote about this a couple of years back but since then not another 94 has shown w/ old guides.
94's are safe.If I bought one I wouldnt worry about it too much anymore.Even many of the last few months of prodcution 93's are safe.
Fred...
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Mayhem_J30
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-Buzzing fuel pump fix it before it takes out the more expensive controller.
-Be sure to get a transmission flush with a pan drop and a screen/filter change (many say such change not neccessary or done but insist)
- Put new GL-5 into the rear diff , (prefer MOBIL1 GL-5)
-"t model": thicker front sway bar, a rear anti sway bar (none in the base) HICAS 4 wheel steering.
Fred...
-Be sure to get a transmission flush with a pan drop and a screen/filter change (many say such change not neccessary or done but insist)
- Put new GL-5 into the rear diff , (prefer MOBIL1 GL-5)
-"t model": thicker front sway bar, a rear anti sway bar (none in the base) HICAS 4 wheel steering.
Fred...
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greg_atlanta
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
Where do you live?
Dealer experience varies widely across the country. Some want to diagnose every problem and build you a new car, others want it to die a horrible death so they can sell you a new car. And the rest are somewhere in between.... hard to predict.
Do you know the history of the car? Buy from individual or dealer?
Dealer experience varies widely across the country. Some want to diagnose every problem and build you a new car, others want it to die a horrible death so they can sell you a new car. And the rest are somewhere in between.... hard to predict.
Do you know the history of the car? Buy from individual or dealer?
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Q45tech
- Moderator
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
"-"t model": thicker front sway bar, a rear anti sway bar (none in the base) HICAS 4 wheel steering."" .....................................THINNER front sway bar on t and a.
When you add a rear bar you should always reduce the stiffness of the front bar for balance..........unfortunately 29>28mm step down [13% less] is all that is available.
Getting the spring ratio vs the sway bar ratio front to rear is critical in maintaining the highway ride [oscillation over seams and periodic bumps].
"Some want to diagnose every problem and build you a new car, others want it to die a horrible death ""
That's usually the owners fault in dealing with the service manager [setting parameters] and not realizing that the car needs serious attention. That they may be required to spend more than the cars price on repairs the minute they conclude the purchase.Never seen a tech recommend replacing things that have not failed or are out of spec ------maliciously! Ignorance or unfamiliarity maybe a problem in diagnosis.
The American Car Council says that 9 out of 10 cars on the road have 1 or more serious mechanical problems.
Build you a new car? if a part fails thats all you can do! When many things are only designed to last 100k you have no choice!
When you read shop trade magazines the number one topic is always about triage......helping the customer prioritize work to get the most for his money.
I can assure you that on a 10 year old car less than 10% of the owners repair everything......there is always something not close to perfect. Long term owners still remember the car cost $50k new owners only think of it as a $5-$10k car in evaluating maintenance and repairs.
Most shops are afraid of losing customers so they try to break it to you gently. They are treated like it's their fault that the car is worn out. You didn't know them before they became customers yet it is your fault they have to spend money.
When you add a rear bar you should always reduce the stiffness of the front bar for balance..........unfortunately 29>28mm step down [13% less] is all that is available.
Getting the spring ratio vs the sway bar ratio front to rear is critical in maintaining the highway ride [oscillation over seams and periodic bumps].
"Some want to diagnose every problem and build you a new car, others want it to die a horrible death ""
That's usually the owners fault in dealing with the service manager [setting parameters] and not realizing that the car needs serious attention. That they may be required to spend more than the cars price on repairs the minute they conclude the purchase.Never seen a tech recommend replacing things that have not failed or are out of spec ------maliciously! Ignorance or unfamiliarity maybe a problem in diagnosis.
The American Car Council says that 9 out of 10 cars on the road have 1 or more serious mechanical problems.
Build you a new car? if a part fails thats all you can do! When many things are only designed to last 100k you have no choice!
When you read shop trade magazines the number one topic is always about triage......helping the customer prioritize work to get the most for his money.
I can assure you that on a 10 year old car less than 10% of the owners repair everything......there is always something not close to perfect. Long term owners still remember the car cost $50k new owners only think of it as a $5-$10k car in evaluating maintenance and repairs.
Most shops are afraid of losing customers so they try to break it to you gently. They are treated like it's their fault that the car is worn out. You didn't know them before they became customers yet it is your fault they have to spend money.
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Mayhem_J30
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mccluredude
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Mon Oct 28, 2002 3:56 pm
This list rules. Thank you for your help everyone.
I am in Northern California. Near Petaluma, about 35 minutes North of the Golden Gate.
I purchased the car from an individual whose maintenance record-keeping was lacking. Apparently the car has been serviced every 3k miles through a family friend who is a mechanic. I will press the seller about the history when I pick up the car.
For now I will assume regular oil changes and tune-ups have been done, but nothing else. The body and interior is in great shape. I know it's risky to not have the history in writing, but it was a great deal, and I am occasionally willing to take a man on his word.
I'll post pics as soon as I get the car. It's white with 17" Mille Miglias (spiders I think), 225/50's all around. Looks great to me and rides like a dream.
Thanks again.Scott
I am in Northern California. Near Petaluma, about 35 minutes North of the Golden Gate.
I purchased the car from an individual whose maintenance record-keeping was lacking. Apparently the car has been serviced every 3k miles through a family friend who is a mechanic. I will press the seller about the history when I pick up the car.
For now I will assume regular oil changes and tune-ups have been done, but nothing else. The body and interior is in great shape. I know it's risky to not have the history in writing, but it was a great deal, and I am occasionally willing to take a man on his word.
I'll post pics as soon as I get the car. It's white with 17" Mille Miglias (spiders I think), 225/50's all around. Looks great to me and rides like a dream.
Thanks again.Scott
The fuel pump replacement can cost $1000 at a dealership. It's a very easy do-it-yourself fix, nice way to introduce yourself to the car. Whether you D-I-Y or have it done, do buy the OEM Nissan part. The price you found from Infiniti of Scottsdale is the best you're likely to find. It's a unique 3-speed pump. Rebuilts don't perform well or last long.
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greg_atlanta
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
mccluredude wrote:I am in Northern California. Near Petaluma, about 35 minutes North of the Golden Gate.
I know that Bay Area dealers tend to be VERY expensive. Of course all depends on what's being done... but could be a surprise.
There were some posts a few weeks back about a guy in your area who was about to have a lot of work done on a 90 Q45... ended up shipping it to San Diego, but I think he posted the name of a place that seemed pretty familiar with the car.
He had the transmission replaced and the timing chain guides updated, neither of which should be an isssue with your car ('94 transmission is better, but not perfect, so may need replacement sooner or later).
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Ex-CA Driver
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- Car: Speeding of course
Price on Fuel Pump
I'd have to disagree on the best price Landtodd. I know and love the guys at Scottsdale as they have provided me with much help, but her ein Oklahoma, where things are cheap, The Infinit Dealership in Okalhoma CIty provided me with a new pump for a little of $550, and a new fuel pump controler for about $145 more
I deferred the work so I could ponder the meaning of conflicting test results. With the car in idle and the regulator vacuum line disconnected, I get 43.5psi. This is the test the manual says to run, and 43.5psi is good. But when I hooked the vacuum back up, I got 35-36psi through all RPMs. I don't think that's right. In the end, the pump is old, it hums, and I don't think I can return the new one, so the job will get done. Probably next weekend. Thanks again for the offer Doug. I'll take my chances on this one. How about I call you when I get around to replacing my engine mounts? If I ever decide to pull the engine please have me committed.
Yes, I was talking about the difference between having the dealer replace the fuel pump and doing it yourself. Dealers mark up parts prices however much they want -- 100% is not unheard of. Some replace the controller as a matter of course -- prevents your potential return as a dissatisfied customer and nets them more $$. $1000 isn't a made-up figure -- that's what my local dealer wanted, but they said it "could go higher, depending."
I don't think that $145 is a realistic price for a new fuel-pump controller ($400+ from Scottsdale). If your dealer sells Nissan-new controllers for that, ask them if they'll do mailorder and let us know! At that price, I would buy a spare! Buying "remanufactured" is a gamble I don't care to take.
I don't think that $145 is a realistic price for a new fuel-pump controller ($400+ from Scottsdale). If your dealer sells Nissan-new controllers for that, ask them if they'll do mailorder and let us know! At that price, I would buy a spare! Buying "remanufactured" is a gamble I don't care to take.