Has anyone pulled their transmission out themselves? Any writeup's? FSM makes it look simple but I'm under there looking at it and I can't figure out how you can reach the top bolts in the bell housing with no clearance. Also, do you have to remove the steering rack and crossmember under the motor to reach the gusset bolts or do you even need to remove the front bolts on those gusset's?
Anyone have experience with this?
'94 Q45a Transmission removal advice
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
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Re: '94 Q45a Transmission removal advice (qsiguy)
Mentioned in IOM, I believe. 3' extensions required. Lift, transmission jack and strong friend very desirable.
I only see pages AT109-110 for removal instructions and no mention of any tools needed or specifics. In the front of the AT section where they list special tools no mention either.
3' extension is no big deal, I just don't see how you can even see the bolts. Guess I'll try harder to look above the transmission. Might be better just to tow the car to a transmission shop and have them pull it for me.
3' extension is no big deal, I just don't see how you can even see the bolts. Guess I'll try harder to look above the transmission. Might be better just to tow the car to a transmission shop and have them pull it for me.
Re: (qsiguy)
Brian is right. Better have a 3 foot extension to get those top bolts. Not the 3/8 extension-1/2 extension, breaker bar, and yes a lift to get enough torque. Mine almost broke me! If I didn't have a transmission jack and lift I would be in trouble. The right tools do make a difference.If your going to do it, break the bank like I did. My car rips! Although the high stall is hard to get used to. Sell your nos Q and put the money towards one that rips!
I have sold the NOS Q to a member of this board and the deal was that I would keep a few things. I've already pulled the wheels, Brembo big brake kit from the front and the Z32 brakes from the rear (calipers and rotors) as well as stainless braided lines all the way around. I pulled the 4:08 rear end (Unitrax) and the driveshaft. Pulled the NOS and last is the transmission and front seats. Really debating the transmission now.
So in my position, transmission is available for me to keep, it's in my garage on jackstands, no lift available, will have to buy a 3' x 1/2" extension. I'm a capable mechanic but my garage is somewhat limited for this job. Do I leave it in the car and just pay to rebuild mine when the time comes or pay $325 for the local shop to remove it for me? This transmission may or may not have been rebuilt/upgraded. Judging from the rest of the options on this car it's definitely a possibility that it's been upgraded.
Help me decide.
So in my position, transmission is available for me to keep, it's in my garage on jackstands, no lift available, will have to buy a 3' x 1/2" extension. I'm a capable mechanic but my garage is somewhat limited for this job. Do I leave it in the car and just pay to rebuild mine when the time comes or pay $325 for the local shop to remove it for me? This transmission may or may not have been rebuilt/upgraded. Judging from the rest of the options on this car it's definitely a possibility that it's been upgraded.
Help me decide.
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: (qsiguy)
What's core allowance from Joe for the core? $400? Call and ask. Seems like even a dead core is worth $325, and hey, the kid can go barefoot the rest of the year!
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bullittandy
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Re: (qsiguy)
Get another quote from another transmission shop.
I'd think its worth $250 or less to not have to do it. $325 is a bit steep.
I bet you could "blindly" engage the top bolts, but trannies are heavy and poorly balanced and too heavy to lift by yourself.
I think you should buy a core, get the core rebuilt and then pay a shop to swap it in, bet the labor wouldn't be much more to pull and replace especially if you found a shop that's got a real gearhead (show 'em the turbo) LOL!
I'd think its worth $250 or less to not have to do it. $325 is a bit steep.
I bet you could "blindly" engage the top bolts, but trannies are heavy and poorly balanced and too heavy to lift by yourself.
I think you should buy a core, get the core rebuilt and then pay a shop to swap it in, bet the labor wouldn't be much more to pull and replace especially if you found a shop that's got a real gearhead (show 'em the turbo) LOL!
Re: (bullittandy)
I would come help if I was closer. I would get a 90 transmission, better gearing.It made a huge difference in first on mine. I know, sell me the 408 for $350!!!
I'm out of the city quite a distance and that shop is the only one within about 20 miles from me. I don't want to haul it that far.
Not worried too much about lifting it. I have a floor jack and I have pulled transmission's out a couple times but they were Chevy trucks and you could to the bolts a little easier. I can lower it easily with the floor jack as long as I can get it loose.
There are a couple on e-bay right now, one for $295 and the other for $350. Shipping isn't cheap tho. This is a difficult decision. Thinking to be worth it I need to get it out myself.
If I leave it, I should get the speed sensor so it will match my 4.08. Is that what the FSM is calling the "Revolution sensor" or is it something else? How difficult is that to get out?
Not worried too much about lifting it. I have a floor jack and I have pulled transmission's out a couple times but they were Chevy trucks and you could to the bolts a little easier. I can lower it easily with the floor jack as long as I can get it loose.
There are a couple on e-bay right now, one for $295 and the other for $350. Shipping isn't cheap tho. This is a difficult decision. Thinking to be worth it I need to get it out myself.
If I leave it, I should get the speed sensor so it will match my 4.08. Is that what the FSM is calling the "Revolution sensor" or is it something else? How difficult is that to get out?
Re: (qsiguy)
I think you can do it at home. Go for it. Once you drop the bolts and get her loose be careful the guide pins are very short, so she comes right out!I doubt the transmission was messed with in the nos Q. maybe a shift kit.
Value of trans
Even if the trans is rebuilt, how many miles on it, and with NOS you know the car has been driven aggressively.
Save the 325 towards a new trans and get your turbo car going now. Which car would you rather be working on?
If joe would pay me 400 for cores, I'd send him a couple today, but he only does it when ya buy a trans. Good used Q45 trans don't even bring 400 on ebay.
Its your time, your dollars - which car do you want to work on?
Save the 325 towards a new trans and get your turbo car going now. Which car would you rather be working on?
If joe would pay me 400 for cores, I'd send him a couple today, but he only does it when ya buy a trans. Good used Q45 trans don't even bring 400 on ebay.
Its your time, your dollars - which car do you want to work on?
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Q45tech
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Re: (qsiguy)
We charge $600 to replace a bad transmission with a Nisan remanned more if we have to clean up a old used transmission for install and flush it after install.
If oem in rad heat exchanger is maintained be sure to use pressurized solvent to flush it out before connecting to new or used transmission.....crud filled.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...flush
If oem in rad heat exchanger is maintained be sure to use pressurized solvent to flush it out before connecting to new or used transmission.....crud filled.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Mercha...flush
Re: (superuber)
Call joe about the speedometer gear for the 408. He will know what your talking about. When I did my 408 the speedo was off and the gear brought it back closer to normal.
Re: (superuber)
If you do the transmission don't go oe, it will be lame and you'll hate it. Get a performance one from level 10 or where I got mine-IPT. You will want something tough to hold up with the turbo and when you put the nos on.
transmission cores are somewhat a joke. For those of us not close to AZ, the $400 core credit is quickly eaten up by freight and supply (you may have to build a crate) charges.
If you can get the transmission out, then theoretically you can put one in and have a free (save the sweat and knuckles you spend) replacement is definitely worth it. You may be able to jack the rear end of the transmission up far enough to expose the top bolts by the firewall. You might have to pull the hood to get at them with enough force.
If you can get the transmission out, then theoretically you can put one in and have a free (save the sweat and knuckles you spend) replacement is definitely worth it. You may be able to jack the rear end of the transmission up far enough to expose the top bolts by the firewall. You might have to pull the hood to get at them with enough force.
Re: (Rex)
If you can get to the top bolts Im not sure you could brake them loose with just a wrench. I'm sure you could not get a ratchet in there, to tight.drop the tail of the transmission, get a long extension and start praying!I bust loose bolts everyday and I'm telling you those were tight!
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sijoko
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Re: (qsiguy)
I pulled my trans with the occasional help of my wife. It can be done but it will take you a bit of time.
I had to lower the engine subframe and drop the rear of the trans to get to the top bellhousing bolts. Once I got access to them, my impact gun would not budge them. I had to use a breaker bar with a super long iron pipe for leverage. Even then, it was hard to loosen the bolts.
Picture me underneath the car holding the breaker bar from slipping off while I push on the pipe as hard as I can and my wife standing on the side of the car, pulling on the iron pipe with all her strength. Finally, there was a loud clank and I thought I had broken the bolt. But it worked. Anyway, don't let me little story discourage you. Just be ready for some huffing and puffing.
If I had to do it again, I would probably just drop the engine and then separate the trans or just get the most powerful 3/4" impact gun on the planet.
I had to lower the engine subframe and drop the rear of the trans to get to the top bellhousing bolts. Once I got access to them, my impact gun would not budge them. I had to use a breaker bar with a super long iron pipe for leverage. Even then, it was hard to loosen the bolts.
Picture me underneath the car holding the breaker bar from slipping off while I push on the pipe as hard as I can and my wife standing on the side of the car, pulling on the iron pipe with all her strength. Finally, there was a loud clank and I thought I had broken the bolt. But it worked. Anyway, don't let me little story discourage you. Just be ready for some huffing and puffing.
If I had to do it again, I would probably just drop the engine and then separate the trans or just get the most powerful 3/4" impact gun on the planet.