You aren't overlooking anything.The way to change the filter is from below w/ the plastic shorud off (of course) and you contorting to reach the filter.
It is not easy to change the filter by any means.Some PPL cheat and take off the intake and do it from the top, risking damage to the MAF connector among others (which can result in all sorts of funky symptoms), which is not the recommended way.
Sorry i didnt have any better news.
It is possible to get a filter wrench around it just a lot of trial and error especially the first few times you do it.
Fred...
