94 Q timing chain noise?

[cientortas]

A long time lurker here, who has found more time to work on the Q...I'll be contributing more as I learn more about this great car...

After my most recent oil change last week (Mobil 1 5w-30), I noticed a new engine noise coming from the drivers side bank. It sounds like a tapping noise that is linked to engine speed. It is only present when the engine reaches operating temp and it seems to be coming from the top front of the bank. This is different from lifter noise I think, which also has been present on this engine for the last few oil changes.

I took a couple of videos, since it is hard to describe the noise with words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzz4i2SwtwE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD8bwv-7L3A

Should I be worried about this noise? Tensioner issue?

I know, I have some lifter tick as well...I'll try some BG MOA or go through the BG Quick Clean process to see if it helps.

Quick history: Bought the car 10K miles ago. It currently has 52K miles. P.O. used dino oil every 3-4k miles. I switched it over to synthetic and have been maintaining 3-4k mile oil changes. I tried Amsoil for my last oci and that seemed to have cleaned a lot of crap out of the engine, as it drained out black/brown after only 3.7k miles. All other service items are up to date.

[3Q Jay]

i have the opposite. tick when cold.yours (hate to say) is definitely worse than mine. the 'whirring' ticks are normal injector/chains noise.

but this is rhythmic. i'd definitely rig oil press gage (forgive me that i don't practise what i'm preaching here) and post the results.

[3Q Jay]

smash the parking brake, put it in drive to get some load on it, and do the same recording, also while occasionally blipping the throttle.

[superuber]

Welcome! It sounds like you are on the right track with your info. BG moa helped my lifter tick. It took me quite a few changes till my engine looked spotless inside. Now when I change it comes out clean!Question for the smart guys: Didn't some of the 94's get the plastic guides?

[maxnix]

Question for the smart guys: Didn't some of the 94's get the plastic guides?

None known. All the later VH45DE seem to have had the metal backed guides. Still looking for a very late early (1993) VH45DE with metal backed guides verifiably from the factory. I can't think of even one original 1993 owner who purchased new on this board.

Add some MOA. Then immediately before your next change, use some BG Quick Clean. Then refill with M1 10W-30 and report back. Do you use the M1 filter also?

[Q45tech]

With 52k in in 14 years, sounds like the previous owners did one oil change per year vs the 2 required by warranty and the 4 recommended for longevity beyond warranty. Sludge City?I would remove the passenger side valve cover and look, photo, and post for evaluation.

[cientortas]

Do you use the M1 filter also?

Yes, I use the M1 filter.

[cientortas]

With 52k in in 14 years, sounds like the previous owners did one oil change per year vs the 2 required by warranty and the 4 recommended for longevity beyond warranty. Sludge City?I would remove the passenger side valve cover and look, photo, and post for evaluation.

Looking at the records, yes, the previous owner did approximately 1 oil change a year. I hope the sludge is not too bad. Should I try the BG Quick Clean and MOA before investigating under the valve covers?

I am thinking that my switch to synthetic stirred something up which may have partially blocked the passages around the left chain tensioner, causing the noise at operating temp idle. When the engine is cold, there is no noise...maybe more oil pressure when cold overcoming the varnish/sludge? Is there any danger of the chain skipping a tooth if the tensioner is not 100%?

The engine runs smooth (except for the noise) and it has good power...very responsive.

Thanks for the help.

[maxnix]

No look at the oil fill inlet and observe the degree of varnish on the internals.

When did you search to synthetic?

Try the BG Quick Clean next change. If the noise doesn't decrease and you are worried about sludge in your oil pan, consider

http://www.envirolution.com

Which will remove most of it pretty well.

If you read the old oil thread, there is some commentary on high detergent lubricants (mostly for diesels) which one can use short term to dissolve ludge deposits.

[cientortas]

When did you search to synthetic?

I switched to syn when I bought the car at 40K miles, about 1.5 years ago. It currently has 52K miles. In the 12K miles I've driven it, I changed the oil 4 times using only synthetic.

[maxnix]

You really shouldn't be having those problems then.

Envirolution might do it. But try the other steps first.

When I ran 5W-30 M1, I thought it was too light and I was in Seattle.

[Q45tech]

Once sludge develops, almost not on earth will clear it fast safely other than mechanical scrapping and spooning it out. Once damage is done no synthetic oil can heal it.

Quick Clean is just for varnish not sludge where pine oil and kerosene will soften it slightly.

Again pull a valve cover and photograph and post so we can see the cam lobes and towers.

[elwesso]

You can get a pretty good idea on how things look by looking under the valve cover.. You can see a little bit under the oil filler cap.. look inside, you should see oil covered metal. if it looks dark brown or even black you have cause for concern...

I used to think the envirolution things were good, I personally dont think theyre worth it for extreme cases. you're better off saving the $100 or so and putting that toward a bunch a cans of quick clean and some cheap oil/filters. Do weekly oil changes for like a month and see what the deal is..

[maxnix]

I used to think the envirolution things were good, I personally dont think theyre worth it for extreme cases.

On one dealer's wall of shame, one of the bottles had what looked like solid coke that envirolution extracted. I know that one had to be run multiple times. Like no oil change in 36K miles on a QX4. Other bottles looked like tar. He had about ten bottles with contents so bad and heavy I couldn't even understand how an engine could run. It is a truly amazing exhibition of owner OCI abuse.

[cientortas]

You can get a pretty good idea on how things look by looking under the valve cover.. You can see a little bit under the oil filler cap.. look inside, you should see oil covered metal. if it looks dark brown or even black you have cause for concern...

Everything looks OK under the oil filler cap. Oil covered metal. There is a small portion under the cap that looks very light brown, tan colored. There seems to be some light varnish in that area.

Anyway, I'll pull the valve covers sometime next week to have a better look inside. If it doesn't look too bad, the BG Quick Clean process is next.

[maxnix]

Light tan is fine. No need to pull VC unless they need gaskets.

[Q45tech]

You pull valve cover to look at cam lobes for wear from running low on oil may not show up in oil fill port?

[maxnix]

True, but chances are if oil was low, wear marks would be even across all cams and HLA. But Dennis is right, you may not see a particular problem with one HLA.

Of course new gaskets are a must at that point.