Post by
VimyJ »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/vimyj-u238.html
Fri Mar 12, 2004 8:08 am
A sway bar or, or more acurately, an anti sway bar is a torsion rod shaped more or less like a large staple attached to a control arm then to the frame with bushing and then another bushing ( bushings are used to allow for rotation) and ending on the other control arm.
When making a sharp turn, the outside wheel control arm compresses. This compression is passed along the sway bar which compresses (or draws up) the inside control arm of the inside wheel with the overall effect of leveling the vehicle and reducing the body sway induced by the turn. This keeps the inside tires in firmer contact with the road surface resulting in better control.
If a sway bar is to stiff, it will transfer energy too readily so that if you hit a bump (or depression) the energy will be transfered to the non affected wheel making for a bumpier ride and defeating the purpose of an independent suspension. In other words, if too stiff, you will feel twice as many bumps on the road and decreased control.
I have a computer simulator (AKA PLayStation One "Grand Turismo). When I put overly stiff away bars on the rear wheels of a RWD car, the car won't accelerate smoothly. Rather it skips around on acceleration because the independent suspension is no longer independent. Too soft and the car will lean too much which reduces tire friction on the inside wheel which means more force on the outside wheel which, in turn, becomes susseptable to having its friction coeffient over come leading to a spin. It's all about finding a working compromise.
The Touring J30 suspension has stiffer springs than the standard version with a lighter sway bar. Springs are the main anti roll device on any car so presumably the Nissan engineers sought a softer (thinnner) sway bar for the T model to "soften" the ride. Conversely, the softer standard springs would be more suseptable to roll so stiffer (thicker) sway bars were added.
Your 94 J30t has the HICAS four wheel steering system. This was dropped in subsequent years. I don't know if different weights of sway were used for that set up. As far as I'm aware, the shocks are the same for Ts and standards.
The knock you are hearing and no doubt feeling comes from worn rubber bump stops. All four struts should be replaced. You can save money by replacing only the strut inserts on the front units. Replace all the rubber bits and pieces while you're at it.