'94 J30 died suddenly for a while then has run strong since

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aerotigger
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:30 am
Car: 1994 Infiniti J30

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My 1994 J30 just died after being driven about 20 minutes. I was leaving a light under medium/hard acceleration. The car died just like it was switched off. I coasted into the nearest parking lot. It started for about 3 seconds after that then shut off and would not restart. When I went back to the car to meet the tow truck about 5 hours later, the car restarted with no problems and has run strong ever since. The car had a new fuel pump less than 25k miles ago. Could this be a fuel related problem? There was no check engine light when the car was restarted.

I did, however, have a check engine light come on earlier in the drive for about 5 minutes. The light has been coming on anytime the car is driven for roughly 10 minutes at fairly consistent engine speed (2000 to 2200 RPM) but will go off as soon as driving conditions vary again. It has made getting the code difficult.

I am open for suggestions on this one. Thanks in advance.


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elwesso
Posts: 30810
Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT
Location: Indiana
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if you have a CEL then thats the first place you need start, check your codes, and tell us what you come up with.

aerotigger
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:30 am
Car: 1994 Infiniti J30

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There is no check engine light on now. I did a code check and got 32 and 34--egr and knock sensor. I wouldn't expect either of those would cause the car to shut off.

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elwesso
Posts: 30810
Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT
Location: Indiana
Contact:

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Yeah an EGR code..... who cares (for purposes of the car not running)...

So described what happened when the engine cut out... It didnt slowly die, just like someone cut the ignition. It sounds like a bad connection to me..

aerotigger
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:30 am
Car: 1994 Infiniti J30

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Dang, I was afraid that's what you'd say. Of course, I was thinking the same. These intermittant problems are the worst to chase down. I'm starting with the fuel area. Someone advised that when a fuel pump goes south the increased current can damage solder joints in the control area. As good a place as any, I guess. Thanks!

DominickJ30
Posts: 856
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 8:10 pm
Car: 1993 Infiniti J30t

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Dude my J30 is driving me nuts.

Same thing happen to me last night. I had the car running in my garage and it just suddenly dies by itself.

I think it may have something to do with the EGR since Im having problems with mine staying open at idle. Causes teh car to run really rough.

aerotigger
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:30 am
Car: 1994 Infiniti J30

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My EGR valve has less than 5000 miles on it. I replaced it with the transmission rebuild and the new exahust manifold along with the tube coming off the manifold since they were different. I also cleaned out the other pipes as best I could. I am going to replace the vacuum hose and the EGR solenoid though. I'll see if that helps. This one was turning 4000 rpm when it died though. Very odd. Hasn't done it since. Good luck with your EGR.

j30_Dood
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2005 2:10 pm
Car: 1993 Infinti j30

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I am having the same problem right now. I hate my introduction post is with a problem, but I hope someone could help. I am going back to my car tomorrow, to see if it will start like areotigger's car. Hopefully it will. If not, would the egr valve really cause this problem? I do not have a diagnostic machine, so I couldn't tell you the codes. I am using my service manual, and hopefully your help to narrow down my problems. I didn't want to start a new thread, so I just post here, sorry not trying to jack thread.

aerotigger
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:30 am
Car: 1994 Infiniti J30

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I definitely wouldn't call it jacking my thread. Any help is always appreciated. Just FYI, I don't have a code ready either for this car. If you get a check engine light, you can get the code by removing the ECU. The ECU is located behind the passenger's kick plate. You have to remove the trim panel above the passenger's knees then the kick panel. If you remove the ECU and look on the back, you'll find a recessed poteniometer looking dial. Switch the car on, but do not start it. Turn the dial completely counterclockwise, wait two seconds, and then turn completely clockwise. There is an LED on the ECU that should correspond to the check engine light on the dash. The code should be indicated by a series of slow flashes and a series of rapid flashes. The number of slow flashes represent the first number of the code. The number of rapid flashes represent the second digit in the code. Multiple codes can be revealed. Once all have been presented it will start over and continue until you switch off the ignition. I can give you the corresponding code to the number if you don't have it. Unfortunately, it's not nearly as convenient as the transmission computer procedure, but it is something. Good luck.


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