'94 G50 standard vs. active rear end diff.

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sijoko
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qsiguy wrote:When I pull the Unitrax diff should I/or do I need to keep the axles with it or will it bolt up to my OEM ones in my turbo? Anyone know?
The axles are the same assuming that both diffs are identical, e.g. non TCS. Just make sure you clean up any rust on the flanges and you'll be okay. You might have to experiment with the driveshaft flange position a bit to get the least vibrations but that is easy.


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qsiguy
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They both HAVE TCS so I should be good? Any reason I would want to keep them and are they hard to get off? How about the diff itself, will I need to open it up to get it off the car?

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sijoko
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qsiguy wrote: They both HAVE TCS so I should be good?
Yup.
qsiguy wrote: Any reason I would want to keep them and are they hard to get off?
As long as the shafts are in good shape, leave 'em in. Yes, they are a pain to remove from the car.
qsiguy wrote: How about the diff itself, will I need to open it up to get it off the car?
Here are the steps to remove the diff:

-remove the rear sway bar-remove the exhaust if you don't have clearance -remove the driveshaft bolts-disconnect your sensors and vent hose on top-remove the 6 bolts on each half-shaft -remove the 3 nuts on the 2 studs on the rear of the diff where it attaches to the subframe-remove the 2 long bolts that attach the diff to the subframe at the front.

Make sure you've got a jack to support/lower the diff, it is very heavy at approx. 80 lbs.


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qsiguy
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Cool, thanks for the info.

Now....what the heck are we both doing up at 3 am my time posting on the Q45 forum? We're nuts!

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qsiguy
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Is there a trick to detaching the driveshaft from the diff? Bolts are out, carrier bolts are out of the middle of the shaft, the shaft is loose. Still stuck to the diff, what's up with that. Is it just stuck and I need to "mallatize" it or something?

thejapino
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There should be a flange on the diff where the driveshaft sits on or vice versa. Similar to how a hubcentric wheel fits onto its proper hub. Beat it off with a soft mallet.

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qsiguy
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Thanks, thats what I've been trying but needed to know I was on the right track. The fsm doesn't show it very clearly.

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sijoko
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qsiguy wrote:Is there a trick to detaching the driveshaft from the diff? Bolts are out, carrier bolts are out of the middle of the shaft, the shaft is loose. Still stuck to the diff, what's up with that. Is it just stuck and I need to "mallatize" it or something?
Spray some penetrating oil between the flanges, wait a while and smack it with a plastic or rubber mallet. Once, you've got it loose enough where the flanges can spin separately, then grab the driveshaft and push it toward the trans.

You should have enough slack so that you can pull the driveshaft off the diff flange. There is a small step on the driveshaft flange that sits inside the diff flange.

So you think you'll be able to hang with my Turbo Q once you get the 4.08 diff?

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qsiguy
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That and the ECU boost tune, meth injection, new knock sensors, spark plugs, and fuel filter.

The new valve cover gaskets, shocks, springs, and new wheels will really push me over the top as I'm sure they'll add 10-20 more hp alone! Oh, and I can't forget about those NICO stickers, they are good for another 5-10 hp. I'm pulling out all the stops to catch you!

Oh, by the way, I did get it out last night so I'm good. Now for that transmission... (see new thread)
Modified by qsiguy at 9:53 AM 3/5/2008

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qsiguy
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Denver90Q wrote:I wonder what they charge for this service or if there is anyone who could rebuild to OEM standards. I don't think I could afford a new one.
I sent them an email asking what the current rate is for this service. I'll post when they reply.

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qsiguy
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Unitrax replied and said that it was $1100 to rebuild/regear my 4.08 differential, wow. Merry Christmas to me!

Here's their response."The Q45 differential that you own cost approximately $1100.00 to ratio change to 4.08. The job was performed on the bench.

At this time, is does not look like we are going to be able to perform any further ratio changes. There are two key components that are no longer manufactured; the ring gear bolts and the spacer required to set up the ring and pinion.

Only one company manufactured the ring gear bolts and they discontinued them sometime in early 2006. They do not have any stock.

If we can be of any further assistance, please contact us.

Regards,"

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dsagers
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WOW!! You really lucked out on the Unitrax.

Do you buy lotto tickets? Choose a few numbers and mail them to me.


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