94 Altima stumbles wont accelerate

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nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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I cant get the altima to accelerate. It stumbles Knocks and bucks? I get No Error codes just 55 Timing Mark is on 18 degrees. Whats up with this thing?


ultimatuc
Posts: 447
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:13 am
Car: fast cars, big trucks, sluts

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pull your distributer and check for oil in it. this is a problem w/ first gens..

good luck

SLOW KA_
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 10:09 pm

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EGR valve possibly...Intake manifold leak...

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Asleep Altima
Posts: 741
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 8:40 pm
Car: Turbo Altima, SR'd S13

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keep it simple and check the things first that cost no money. check for loose wires, loose or torn vacuum lines and make sure your fuel filter is not plugged. definitely check the distributor and cap and also look for spark plug wires that may not be firing, now would be a good time to pull the sparkplugs and make sure that they are firing also.

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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All new Cap Plugs and wires no vac leaks no Oil in cap Has me baffled?

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Asleep Altima
Posts: 741
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 8:40 pm
Car: Turbo Altima, SR'd S13

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still no codes on the ecu?

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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NO Just 55

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Asleep Altima
Posts: 741
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2003 8:40 pm
Car: Turbo Altima, SR'd S13

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set your timing to 20. if the engine will idle, get out a spray bottle and wet down all of the vacuum lines one by one. if the idle changes any way what so ever, then you have a leak. im still trying to keep it simple for you... the thing about vacuum leaks though, the engine will usually idle higher than normal. have you checked all of your electrical connections to see if any are loose?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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is it instantaniously not throttling up or will it accel for a bit then fall on its face? Vaccum leaks dont usually stop it from accel unless the leak was so bad it wont even idle. check your MAF or the air ducting between it and the throttle body maybe the tube is split and opens up when the motor torques?

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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The car warms up fine! Once you hit the accellerator it instantly falls off. You can idle in drive and it will move. Step on the gas and it stumbles backfires very lightly. I pulled the air duct and maf sensor there was a little corrosive green stuff. Cleaned it up put back together still the same.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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where is the "poping" coming from? the exhaust or the intake? if its intake I think you have a lack of fuel which could be due to an improper airflow meter signal to the ecm. Find out wher ethe poping is coming from first.

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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It,s the Exhaust side I checked tps good maf good signal

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Checked all possible items I think Injectors are the answer? I pulled all four and they look alright but there gritty anyway to test them? One bill a each is pretty steep!

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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do a voltage check on the maf. and pay close attention to the voltage drop on the ground wire. should be less then .2v

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Did this and It checked out

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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what were your readings on it? all three wires at idle?

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Disconected Orange Wire 12.42 Volts small white 12.42 volts. Started Backprobed at Idle small orange 1.48 volt at highest acc I can get without killing the engine 2.60 volts. small white 0.01

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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How Many LBS Vac. should I find? disconnected vacume booster and hooked up vac Gauge.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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about 20 at idle. Check all three of the wires with it connected and idleing and post just those numbers. You should be posting a voltage for each wire.

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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OK Orarge Wire 14.23V White center 0.01V Small Orange 1.23V

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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thats good readings for an airflow. maybe signal[1.23] might be very slightly low but certainly not low enough to cause your problem.

get a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what fuel pressure is at idle and what it does on accel.

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Put Fuel Pressure Gauge on about 40. Can't get enough off idle to make it change that much. It looks like 45lbs not the best gauge. When I shut it off Pressure bleeds off. I think It's suppose to hold for a while isn't it? Again could be the gauge. Fuel regulator seems alright has vacume to it and fuel Pressure go's down when vacume is applied. Still stumped? :(

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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it should not bleed off when the key is turned off. but the fact the pressure goes up when you open the throttle says its not due to lack of fuel pressure.

Couple more things you need to check. go back to the distributor cap pull it off remove the rotor then pull the black cover below that off. make absolute sure there is no oil in there.

pul the plug wires out of the wells and make sure there is no water or oil in those tubes that could cause your spark to arch the tubes instead of firing the plugs.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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try this little trick to for intrest porposes. set up your airflow meter connector so you can easily pull it off while the car is runing. at idle pull it off see what the engine does if it continues to run try to rev the engine up. lets see if the engine reacts EXACTLY the same or if it will rev but takes a couple seconds to respond rather then die. rev it gently let the computer compensate for the lack of input from airflow meter. does it respond differently and achive an accel?

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Now I'm getting somewhere! Pulled cap first time around found no oil. Didn't dig deep enough. This time Pulled cover under roter found five Quarts! :). Just kidding! Now what? Oil everywhere! My second reply I recieved said look for Oil under cap but I didn't see any. Like I said didn't dig deep enough. I Thank Ultimatuk For the info!

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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you need a distributor. There is no reseal kit available for it.

nelburg
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:19 pm

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Installed new distributor car ran great. You Guys Rock Thanks for the Help:)

QX4ME
Posts: 390
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 5:58 am
Car: 02 Infiniti QX4 4WD
11 MB C300 Sports
06 Honda Odyssey
Location: CA

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That is the same thing happened to my 94 Altima two years ago.

Now I have another intermittent problem. The engine turns over just fine but does not start at all. Take no notice of it and start it a few hours later. It starts right away. Had this intermittent starting problem for a few times. Once it starts, I don't see any problem, idle, various speed, A/C on and off, shifter on D, N, N or P, etc.

Anybody has any idea where to check and how?

Thanks in advance.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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do you have a check engine light on or any codes stored? does it smell flooded at all?

QX4ME
Posts: 390
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 5:58 am
Car: 02 Infiniti QX4 4WD
11 MB C300 Sports
06 Honda Odyssey
Location: CA

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I'll ask my dad who had this problem, to see if "check engine light" came on. When I started the car it started right away, no flooded smell at all.

By the way the car passed smog check a week ago, without any repair or adjustment.


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