My stepdaughter's 94 Altima has a charging problem that I am having trouble diagnosing. Basically, it's not charging. The symptoms occurred both before and after alternator changeout. Battery is good. Both the "BRAKE" and the charging light remain on. They will (both) go out after high (3K) revs, but charging voltage does not go above 12V (was at 11v, slowly dropping to 9ish V). I suspect the new alternator (will be looked at this week by the shop that installed), but the BRAKE light being on at the same time the ALT light has me concerned. Has anyone else found anything similar? Any help would be appreciated.Ralph

this might sound too silly. but nevertheless its a possibility. is the handbrakes engaged.

I already checked that. When the handbrake is engaged, the "BRAKE" light gets brighter. I'm afraid that there is a short somewhere in the harness. Ralph

Its your battery, it has a dead cell in it. When the battery is fully charged put a voltmeter on it, then crank it and see what the voltage drops too. If its below twelve volts when cranking then it needs to be replaced, you must also replace it before it kills your new alt. peace.

very common to have dash lights like an xmas tree when alternator goes.

get it replaced. at least manually charge your battery and be sure it holds charge or replace it too.sure, your new alternator *could* recharge your battery---but it is not really meant to do so and that will put a lot of stress on it.

Sorry for the delay in responding, I can read replies while at work (at lunch of course), but I can't post from work, and have been pretty busy after work.Thankfully, I have a Plan B available to me so I'm not in crisis mode (my stepdaughter (#2) is able to drive stepdaughter #1's car while she's away at college). Based upon your suggestions, I picked up a new battery this evening. Put it on the charger to ensure a full charge and will install tomorrow evening. My only concern (voiced earlier) is that only the "BRAKE" and "Charging' light are illuminated while in operation. Time will tell.I will post my results tomorrow PM.Thanks for the help. Ralph

if u picked a NEW BATTERY u don't need to to charge it. new ones come fully charged, waste no time and just put it on.

Well, I charged the battery for about an hour before the "charged" light on the charger lit up. Installed the battery, car started right up. Charge light and BRAKE light only lights still illuminated. the alternator is not charging (about 12.3 volts at the battery). If I rev up the engine to about 2k, both the indicator lights go out, but voltage remains at 12.3v. I suspect the alternator may have been damaged, will be going to the shop next week (the alternator is only a few months old). I am still concerned about the BRAKE light being on. Time will tell. Thanks for the suggestions. I will post when I learn more (or try something else).Ralph

the brake light does go on when the charge light comes on. I've seen it many times before. Have your alt replaced or rebuilt, I actually had good luck with a shop in town that rebuilds them. It was cheaper and it's a sure fit since it's the one that came with the car.

That's the most reassuring information I've heard. I was dreading some type of short backfeeding through the instrument panel causing the charging problem (like how the charge light needs to work to excite the field for charging).Thank you, I will post when I get some more information.Ralph

ralphs wrote:Based upon your suggestions, I picked up a new battery this evening. Put it on the charger to ensure a full charge and will install tomorrow evening. My only concern (voiced earlier) is that only the "BRAKE" and "Charging' light are illuminated while in operation. Time will tell.I will post my results tomorrow PM.Thanks for the help. Ralph

hmmm, i confused you unintentionally. good that you changed the battery with a new one and charged it first. but i was saying that the alternator on your car is bad (even if 'rebuilt' many are junk). fortunately the U13 alternator is easy to change so with 65-70% package failure rate of non-oem rebuilds you don't lose too much in labor.samrt money buys a genuine nissan reman'd (not as expensive as you might think from one of our sponsors) and doesn't worry again for another 10 years. however, i confess that even i have used autozone (but made sure to make the counter guy find me one with a hamburger on the rear casting) in a pinch.

to avoid problems aways best to change battery and alternator BEFORE they fail.

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Quote »if u picked a NEW BATTERY u don't need to to charge it. new ones come fully charged, waste no time and just put it on. [/quote]you are misinformed. conventional lead acid batteries on open circuit stand lose about 10% capacity per week (minimum).

Jay-Thanks for your input. My experience with motorcycle batteries trained me in ensuring that batteries be fully charged prior to installation. Perhaps unfortunately, my local garage installed a reman alternator a few months ago, so another reman will be installed next week. I purchased this car about three years ago for stepson #2 (since transferred to stepdaughter #2); the previous owner supplied many receipts of work that he had performed (a lot of work). My wife has "put away" the folder, so I have no clue as to where the records might be now, other than that they are still in the house somewhere. I recall that the PO had replaced the alternator, but I'm not 100% sure. I will post with more info when available.

Similar Situation on my 93 Altima. 2 days ago brake and battery lights started blinking together and came on at half to 3/4 brightness. While stopped I engaged the handbrake and that light went to full brightness. Car still crunk ok. Today I was driving locally and the car radio turned off and the lights in the dash went off, car started to stutter and started slowing down, I made it 400 yards and came to a stop. Car would not restart. I replaced the battery (which measured completely disharged at Advance Auto) and it started OK w/ new bat. Still suspect the Alternator. Measured voltage across New battery w/ car off..14Vdc...and with car running,..same 14VDC. Trying to measure alternator I placed the meter on AC and measured at the Red terminal of alternator to the chassis, reads 26Vac. Not sure if that means anything...Check Alt Fuse under Hood...OK..also check one inside, ok as well. Any suggestions on testing the alternator correctly to know it is working?

1993 Altima Alternator Replacement Update.

Replaced my alternator and everything is working now. The instrument lights in the dash (Brake & Battery) went off now and car runs normally. I removed the alternator and had it tested at Advance Auto and it tested bad, they had a rebuilt unit, I had them test the rebuilt unit as well (to make sure it was working) and verified the bolt patterns and pully size was the same before leaving the store.

To replace had to have 8mm, 12mm and 14 mm sockets. Remove Negative clamp from battery, then remove the front hose at the radiator and fold back out of way. (hold up end quickly and minimal fluid will be lost.) Remove the overflow tank on left, there is a screw/bolt on top and a plastic latch in at bottom (black plastic bracket on bottom) - I broke mine by pulling up..

There is a bolt under the belt, and across from it on the right side (facing car from the working side.) Remove the bolt that goes into the alternator frame where the top adjustment screw adjust the belt tension. Remove the cables that are attached. Replace in the same fashion. Note electrical tab on the connector has to be depressed down before pulling it from alternator. Took me about an hour to replace. Be sure your belt goes over correct pulleys (and under) and is centered on the pulleys before adding tension. Had to loosen tension screw all the way to get belt on and centered, then I retightened for tension and verified belt position on all pulleys with a flashlight. Cost fore Reman Alt was ~$160 w/ tax and core..

1993 Altima Alternator Replacement Update.

Replaced my alternator and everything is working now. The instrument lights in the dash (Brake & Battery) went off now and car runs normally. I removed the alternator and had it tested at Advance Auto and it tested bad, they had a rebuilt unit, I had them test the rebuilt unit as well (to make sure it was working) and verified the bolt patterns and pully size was the same before leaving the store.

To replace had to have 8mm, 12mm and 14 mm sockets. Remove Negative clamp from battery, then remove the front hose at the radiator and fold back out of way. (hold up end quickly and minimal fluid will be lost.) Remove the overflow tank on left, there is a screw/bolt on top and a plastic latch in at bottom (black plastic bracket on bottom) - I broke mine by pulling up..

There is a bolt under the belt, and across from it on the right side (facing car from the working side.) Remove the bolt that goes into the alternator frame where the top adjustment screw adjust the belt tension. Remove the cables that are attached. Replace in the same fashion. Note electrical tab on the connector has to be depressed down before pulling it from alternator. Took me about an hour to replace. Be sure your belt goes over correct pulleys (and under) and is centered on the pulleys before adding tension. Had to loosen tension screw all the way to get belt on and centered, then I retightened for tension and verified belt position on all pulleys with a flashlight. Cost fore Reman Alt was ~$160 w/ tax and core..