Guys, I can locate a 93 TCU for just about a little over $100 - and seems like a good price instead of paying >$300 for the JWT TCU.
Does the 2 provide the same benefits? All what I care about is prolonging the life of my transmission - so starting in first gear is my goal, any other benfit will be bonus.
Buying a TCU from a yard seems like the thing to do - the part is electrical and it either works or does not, unlike mechanical parts that wear with time and usage.
Should I go for it?
93 TCU in 92Q45
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Q451990
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That's what I did... just make sure the part number is either 31036-64U20 or 61036-64U75. Anything under $150 is a great deal!!
I'm with you on the works/doesn't work assessment. I've never heard of a TCU failure unless it's damaged in a wreck or gets wet (due to a bad repair from a wreck). Just check it out to make sure it looks like it's been kept dry.
Heath
I'm with you on the works/doesn't work assessment. I've never heard of a TCU failure unless it's damaged in a wreck or gets wet (due to a bad repair from a wreck). Just check it out to make sure it looks like it's been kept dry.
Heath
Were did you find it? I have been trying to locate one down here in SD. I can not find one. JWT is right here in SD and I can go have them do it while I wait. But its like 500$ for the TCU and $700 for the ECU, and I think they communicate with each other... not sure though. I will do what I must eventually. Good for you though.
crubio
crubio
1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRANS 00011603 $115 PRP -Knox Auto Parts USA-TN(Knoxville) E-mail 1-888-242-8733 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRA, (LH kick pnl)- L0821 $100.58 PRP -Auto Parts of Shelby USA-NC(Shelby) E-mail 1-888-597-7278 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRA, (LH kick pnl)- M0585 $100.58 PRP -Auto Parts of Shelby USA-NC(Shelby) E-mail 1-888-597-7278 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRANS COMP,L KICK PNL 1D0072 $Call S and W Automotive Parts, Inc. USA-GA(Lithonia) E-mail 1-800-706-8826 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TL TRANS A64-000 P45,31036 64U20 95495 $Call Euro Parts Express USA-MD(Rockville) E-mail 1-866-tireland 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TL TL2273 $Call Euro Parts Express USA-MD(Rockville) E-mail 1-866-tireland 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 31036 68U10 A64 000 P54 E2150 $Call LKQ - B and D Auto Recyclers USA-AL(Birmingham) E-mail 1-800-321-3209 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRANS. COMPUTER 01F187 $Call Jim's Import Auto Salvage USA-FL(Sebring) E-mail 1-800-447-4707 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 2C0503 $Call A and R Auto Parts USA-SC(Duncan) E-mail 1-800-922-7213 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 NW167 $Call Medford Auto Wreckers USA-NY(Medford) E-mail 1-631-289-1772 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 2F1344 $Call A and R Auto Parts USA-SC(Duncan) E-mail 1-800-922-7213 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 transmission COMP. 0326E1 $Call West End Auto Parts USA-TN(Knoxville) E-mail 1-800-456-0021 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 J01164 $Call Jack's Auto Parts USA-GA(Tifton) E-mail 1-800-476-4006 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 GRN,RWD,4.5,ATF,ABS, 4D FK1465 $Call Weaver Automotive USA-GA(Carnesville) E-mail 1-800-282-0723 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 GRN,RWD,4.5,AODF,ABS ,4D,TRANS CC2396 $Call Weaver Automotive USA-GA(Carnesville) E-mail 1-800-282-0723 1993 Chassis Control Box(not Engine) Infiniti Q45 TRANS 8L8084 $Call King George Auto Parts USA-VA(King-George) E-mail 1-800-847-4547
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Q451990
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Just make absolutely sure that when you buy it the P/N on the TCU you're buying is the same as the ones I mentioned before. They're the only ones that will give you the results you want. 94-96 had different gearing, so you'd get the first gear start, but all of the shift points would be screwed up.
I have a feeling you may be looking at some 94 model years built in 1993 mixed in there. Also, the chassis control box may be the timer unit - just make sure before you know what you're getting before you spend the $$.
Heath
I have a feeling you may be looking at some 94 model years built in 1993 mixed in there. Also, the chassis control box may be the timer unit - just make sure before you know what you're getting before you spend the $$.
Heath
Yes, the engine computer (ECU) and the transmission computer (TCU) do talk, mostly about retarding ignition timing during the shift to save the transmission, but sometimes about max rpm versus shift point. There are several (6?) different combinations of software revisions you could get when mixing '93 TCUs with '92 ECUs. Some of these combinations seem to be "happier" than others, but they're all a good deal happier than the stock '92 TCU.
My '93 TCU is a 31036-64U20. It works quite nicely in my '92, and I won't ever go back. I agree about the "chassis module" -- I doubt that's the transmission controller.
I got my '93 TCU from member Sopdadope about a year ago.
My '93 TCU is a 31036-64U20. It works quite nicely in my '92, and I won't ever go back. I agree about the "chassis module" -- I doubt that's the transmission controller.
I got my '93 TCU from member Sopdadope about a year ago.
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greg_atlanta
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I say it's a good idea, but some (including me) do notice a harsh shift from 1 to 2. But you just get used to it. I really does make driving around town a lot more fun -- easier to get it to drop into first after making turns (esp. if you have rear sway bar and can drift a bit!).
I just switched back to my standard '92 TCU today. I do that for winter since the engine revs too high in 1st gear when the engine is cold... I save my crazy driving for warm weather.
It's strange going back to the old TCU, but feels more like a luxury car now.
I just switched back to my standard '92 TCU today. I do that for winter since the engine revs too high in 1st gear when the engine is cold... I save my crazy driving for warm weather.
It's strange going back to the old TCU, but feels more like a luxury car now.
If it all turns out for $107, you did very well! The model year is coded into the part number, so if 64U20 is an accurate part number, then yup, it's a '93 TCU. Be aware that the part number is printed on the removable cover of the unit -- they can be switched easily. In fact, my '93 TCU has a '92 cover on it, and so shows the original '92 part number. (That'll confuse someone some day.) I've never looked closely at the circuit board to see if the part number is there, too.
As for installation, this is an incredibly easy switch to make! 15 minutes, tops. Entry sill pops off, kick panel might have a couple of screws holding it in. Get the biggest-headed common Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the TCU in place. The more common regular Phillips screwdriver will likely strip the center of the head and leave you looking for the bigger screwdriver anyway. Someone suggested using an impact driver on these screws about a year ago, but I didn't find that necessary at all. A bolt holds the harness to the unit. When the unit's protruding plastic tab (blue or red?) is flush with the back surface of the wiring harness, it's tight enough. Don't overtighten or you'll break something.
My old '92 TCU went into a box in the trunk, and that's where it will stay. Unless h-ll freezes over and I need to drive in snow. My 1-2 shift is smooth as silk at light throttle, peasantly assertive at mid-throttle, but it flairs just a little at full throttle. This could be the shiftpoint vs. max rpm debate I described, but more likely, it's symptomatic of a transmission whose line pressures are in decline. That's okay -- I bought the car knowing it was far from new, so I do what I can to prolong the second (?) transmission's remaining life, like installing first-gear starts with a '93 TCU. This was the best $200 I've spent on the car so far.
As for installation, this is an incredibly easy switch to make! 15 minutes, tops. Entry sill pops off, kick panel might have a couple of screws holding it in. Get the biggest-headed common Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the TCU in place. The more common regular Phillips screwdriver will likely strip the center of the head and leave you looking for the bigger screwdriver anyway. Someone suggested using an impact driver on these screws about a year ago, but I didn't find that necessary at all. A bolt holds the harness to the unit. When the unit's protruding plastic tab (blue or red?) is flush with the back surface of the wiring harness, it's tight enough. Don't overtighten or you'll break something.
My old '92 TCU went into a box in the trunk, and that's where it will stay. Unless h-ll freezes over and I need to drive in snow. My 1-2 shift is smooth as silk at light throttle, peasantly assertive at mid-throttle, but it flairs just a little at full throttle. This could be the shiftpoint vs. max rpm debate I described, but more likely, it's symptomatic of a transmission whose line pressures are in decline. That's okay -- I bought the car knowing it was far from new, so I do what I can to prolong the second (?) transmission's remaining life, like installing first-gear starts with a '93 TCU. This was the best $200 I've spent on the car so far.
Well it finally rained today in Los Angeles after 8 months!!! CA Highway Patrol reported only 151 accidents on the freeways prior to 9AM!!! Gave me a good chance to try out the 1st gear start TCU in wet conditions. Found little to no slippage!!! and yes I did give it the boot a few times. Snow of course is a different thing altogether. Still must say I highly recommend the 93 TCU.
Got it in yesterday - popped in this morning and the car now starts in the first gear - a 15 minute job. I can notice the shift from first to the second, but only if I try too hard - otherwise it is not even noticeable.
This is one heck of a deal for $100 - there were plenty others when I ordered around (in other yards) - I ordered from PRP -Auto Parts of Shelby USA-NC(Shelby) E-mail 1-888-597-7278 (guy named Roney/Rodney), and he had two available at the time - $107 shipped.
This is one heck of a deal for $100 - there were plenty others when I ordered around (in other yards) - I ordered from PRP -Auto Parts of Shelby USA-NC(Shelby) E-mail 1-888-597-7278 (guy named Roney/Rodney), and he had two available at the time - $107 shipped.