1993 240sx: Starting Problem

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ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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Ok i have a 93' S13 with a KA24DE. I am having an electrical issue I THINK. I am gonna run you through what i did and maybe someone might catch where i may have caused a problem.

One of my injectors went bad(i have sr20 injectors) so i was temporarily changing the bad one out with one of my old ka injectors. I had disconnected the Fuel pump fuse and also i disconnect the line to the fuel filter to relieve pressue since i dont know any other way. Everything went smooth until i went to crank the motor. When i turned the key and put the clutch in to start, as i attempted to start the motor made like a click and thats it. It didnt attempt to start at all.

Then after that my alarm start acting retarted and my lights or nothing electrical except for the digital clock on the cluster. it was as if there was no power. So i took my battery to get it checked and it was perfect.

what i find strange is that when i disconnect the negative negative on the battery and put it back on, the electrical components and alarm came back to normal. Well not everytime anyways. But as soon as i tried to crank again same thing. One weird click and back to where i started. I checked fuses and everything was fine unless there is something i dont know. And to add my car runs like new.

I am assuming its electrical because of the symptoms but i am not a mechanic so i only know so much.

Please help lol...... Thanks


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thomasjamal
Posts: 916
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:46 am
Car: 93 coupe

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One possibility is that it wasn't really a bad injector in the first place but a problem with your ECU. My old ECU started to go and caused one injector to go out and the engine to run on 3 cylinders. So I replaced the injectors and did a bunch of other random work trying to fix it and it turned out the ECU was the problem the whole time.

ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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I thought that also but what led me to believe it was the injector was that i moved the injector from the cylinder that wasnt working to another cylinder and when i moved it, the cylinder that i moved it to stop working. So im pretty sure it was the injector. I was think that maybe i spilled gas in some wires maybe dealing with the ignition. Whats weard is how it happend from one second to the next. Also has soon as i start to crank it everything dies, as if i didnt even have a battery on the car

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Q451990
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Posts: 11030
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
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I've had a loose battery connection behave this way before... car behaves fine electrically, turn the key and everything shut down. I would make sure your battery connections are good.

Heath

ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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Well the connections are nice and tight. And its as if it happens only the instant i crank. I will definitely check. My negative side connection is new but the positive is the original

ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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bump

LightningRodOfHate
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:22 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Vert w/SR20DET Red Top

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Check the starter wiring, fuses, relay, etc... A loose connection there can cause the same thing...

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comatoseculture
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:19 am
Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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Measure how much voltage you have at the battery under starting load. have someone else start it and watch the mulitmeter. You should have 10 volts at least. (it's possible to start with just less then 10v but will sooner or later get worse) If it's fine otherwise, but not under load, it's still not OK and needs to be replaced. Sounds like a bad battery. I know you said it's fine, but it sounds like a bad battery. Good Luck

ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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Ok so i cleaned the terminals and its started responding right away. The negative is really beat so im in the process of just changing the entire cable. I will let u guys know how its goes

ukrainekid
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:33 pm
Car: S13 SR20det Red Top

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Hey everyone, update on my starting problem. Ok so finally i got the whole battery issue out of the way, but now it turns out that one of the injector i used to replace the bad one had a bad o-ring so i had fuel mixing with oil. So i was told to change the o-ring and change my oil. Then attempt to start the motor. I was already fearing the worst. Hopefully i come out of this one ok

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comatoseculture
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:19 am
Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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ok first clarify was it just a loose/corroded negative cable or what?
Now what does oil have to do with your injectors sir? Lube up the o-ring a bit before install. Go ahead and change your oil or whatever and fear nothing.

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Q451990
Moderator
Posts: 11030
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
Contact:

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If you have a bad lower o-ring it can definitely let fuel past the injector, wash down the cylinder walls past the piston, and contaminate the oil. We've seen it way too often on the Q45 and in severe cases, the engine can hydrolock if there's a lot of fuel getting in there. Like comatoseculture said, replace the o-rings... lubricate them with a smear of motor oil before reinserting them into the rail, and see what happens.

Good luck!

Heath

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comatoseculture
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:19 am
Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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Ah HA. I really must have had a slow day yesterday. I was thinking he suggested oil was ran up at the injectors. Thanks Heath.


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