93 s13 240 coupe reading ECU code 32

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cc240coupe
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:35 pm

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I'm sick and tired of throwing error codes, first the O2 sensor, then the knock sensor and now code 32 - EGR malfunction (California models). After doing a self-diagnostic and looking over the list of ECU codes, i've noticed that its not the EGR valve itself, thats code 105 - EGR and canister control valve (Solenoid). I had to replaced the EGR tube leading to the exhaust manifold a while back, not like that would throw a code lol.

Now, where I stand is what part of the EGR system is malfunctioning?

I've try to Google this problem and looked over some forums but it seem that no one has a solution....... Can some help...? :wtf2:





When I first start the car and drive if for about an hour everything seems to be in good working order, then the engine light comes on. It still seem to run fine for a little longer afterwords then it does its thing. The RPM drop and bounce around 200-500 RPM, acting like it want to die but never fully does. I'm also experiencing lose of HP, small backfires and bad hesitation in the gas peddle while I'm driving under 3,000 RPM, the higher it gets the less its jacked up.


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comatoseculture
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:19 am
Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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There are basic tests for egr and what not in the FSM have you used that? Such as a hand pump to test the EGR valve itself? Anything of that nature?

cc240coupe
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:35 pm

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I havent done the test on the EGR valve that is discribed in the FSM. If the EGR valve was bad it would throw a code, right? Code 105 reads as, 105 EGR and canister control valve. I know there is a tool that allow you to test the EGR valve, i dont have one.

cc240coupe
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:35 pm

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So I found out something quite interesting. Even though my ECU is throwing code 32 EGR malfunction, the problem has nothing to do with the EGR system. I've taken off and clean the EGR valve itself, tested it and checked all the vacuum line for leaks and found none wrong. I replaced all the lines on the back of the engine awhile back. Again my car starts acting up only when it has had time to warmed up and I've drove it for about 30+ minutes. Its starts back firing a little, smells like gas and there's a loss in horse power. Also the RPM needle bounces around when I apply throttle, like it has a major loss in voltage through the ignition system. If I remember right the distributor is plugged into the gauge cluster. The RPM's show basically, in this case whats going on with distributor. The more I studied more about this, researched possible issue's and also talked to my mechanic, we came to the conclusion that I'm throwing what is called a ghost code. Meaning that something else was causing the problem and tricking the ECU into thinking that its the EGR valve. We believe that its an electrical issue within the distributor. Inside the distributor there is a optical eye that reads a little metal grid with braille type bump on it, a whole bunch of small ones, 4 big one, one is slightly bigger than the other 3, which is top dead center. Every time the beam of light from the optical eye scans over the bigger wholes it fires the spark for each cylinder. Over time it gets old and dirty and like everything else it stops working right. Come to find out these types of distributors in older cars, especially in some Nissan's have the tendentious to do just that. Some how I'm not that surprised lol. Also take in a count, the distributor in bolted right onto the cylinder head on the exhaust manifold side making it a pretty hot place to be. If my knowledge in electrical issue's treats me right, heat is one of its worst enemy's. Hints why when the car gets to a curtain temperature the car doesn't run right. So, if my theory on the distributor in right, the O2 sensor would read that the car is running rich.... as if the EGR valve was malfunctioning, throwing the ghost code.

I'm not 100% sure that I'm right about this whole thing so any feed back would be helpful and much appreciated. I'm looking for a DOHC distributor so I can swap it out for testing, before I go and drop a bunch of money on a new one. If I buy and new distributor and that's not the problem imma be pissed... :facepalm:

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coupe240sxguy
Posts: 441
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:36 pm
Car: '89 240sx/ '01 mazda 626
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I should have a list of codes in the link below.


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