93 Q45 testing replacing injectors

[BCC93QT]

Ok well lets start from scratch. I recieved a 93 Q45 from my X landlord for my $525 security deposit he failed to pay back. I havent diagnosed the problem myself but i was told 2 out of 8 injectors were replaced. Along with it needed a brake job, strut job, etc. The car idles rough but performance wise it runs good. It also needs a fuel pump which i can do myself but i have never done injectors on a car like this before. Are they any similar to a honda? Anyway, can anyone give me some info on how to ohm and change the injectors and where i would get the tool to do so?

[SUB ZERO CAR FANATIC]

First you need to get a Fluke digital meter or something similar.If the injectors are still good they should ohm between 10-14 ohms just touch the two male connector pins with pos. and neg. leads from meter.Take intake off to get to the injectors,be careful when you take the 10 mm screws out that hold intake inplace,they have rubber or plastic spacers between intake and intake tubes,they will fall into the intake tubes if you are not careful.There are several hoses to take loose once you take all the intake mounting screws out before you can lift intake up.Once you do lift it up and you will have access to the fuel rails,thats what injectors are mounted in. unplug injector harness,they have little clips that look like a staple holding each connector to injector,you can use flat screwdriver or something to snap it out. Disconnect the 2 fuel lines and fuel rails and injectors should come out as a unit so you can get to each injector to get them out.squirt a little lubrication of some type(i used oil) around injector(after you have taken metal caps and 2 mounting screws off top of each injector) let oil soak in about a half hour it helps loosen them up so they come out alot easier!if you decide your replacing them it doesnt matter if you damage pintle caps(little plastic cap on tip of injector) or not so use a block of wood to press pintle cap end of injector against and it will pop out. hope i helped and didnt confuse you . subzero

[SUB ZERO CAR FANATIC]

When you re install injectors make sure you replace o rings,and a very important thing to remember make sure you put some vaseline around o-rings on new injectors so they slide in with ease,otherwise you will dis-lodge oring from its place causing leaks and problems. Vaseline is a petroleium based substance so it will disipate not harming anything. GOOD LUCK

[lino]

Welcome to Nico!

Download a copy of the service manual if you don't already have one:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

Here is a quick way to test your injectors:

http://q45.org/ohminjectors.html

Be sure to check out these links too:

http://q45.org/techhelp.html

http://www.nicoclub.com/subpag...l#q45

Good Luck!

..... The car idles rough but performance wise it runs good. It also needs a fuel pump

If you think your car runs good now, wait until you replace the fuel pump and injectors

[AlabamaDan]

Welcome BC93QT.

Good post Lino. Way to make him feel welcome. Much better than saying "Have you searched?"

In response to Sub Zero's comments, be careful taking the top of the plenum off a 93. You might find alot of those hoses brittle and cause more damage. The guide on Q45.org might be a good place to start and if you do have to pull the plenum I'd go ahead and buy some hoses just in case.

[SUB ZERO CAR FANATIC]

Good pointer about the hoses Dan,i was lucky on both of the ones i did ,both motors had good hoses on them still,one a 94 one a 93 model. Dan do you still have any Q parts left? i thought awhile back i seen you were selling some parts!

[Haitian_King]

A running Q for $525? Not a bad deal.

Even if you decided not to get it running, parting it out will give you the $525 back, if not more. Good luck. Take pictures.

[AlabamaDan]

Dan do you still have any Q parts left? i thought awhile back i seen you were selling some parts!

I have a few things, but might be able to pull some others. My junkyard has some Qs. I'm willing to pull stuff for folks and just charge a little extra to cover gas and trouble. I've got a throttle body, MAF and a set of headlights off a 92. I have a passenger headlight off a 94, but it has a small chip. Looking for something?

[BCC93QT]

okay. when i get the new injectors in do i need to test them after? i found a fuel pump. Also found this company Python injection that makes the pump and ordered it for $186 with a 40$ core charge. a whopping $350 something dollars less than the dealership. As well as the injectors at $43 a piece which they wanted $250+ each.

[Denver90Q]

Phyton injectors are just cleaned and tested not new. You might be better off getting Series II injectors with fuel rails from a 1994 or 1995 as their failure rate is much lower. You might also consider buying new parts from Infiniti of Scottsdale for a 25% + discount and much better service. I think I paid about $250 for my fuel pump from them.

[maxnix]

As well as the injectors at $43 a piece which they wanted $250+ each.

You need to know Joe.

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

Pythons are a joke, at best.

[AlabamaDan]

Pythons are a joke, at best.

Man you're abrasive sometimes. The guy just said that he'd already bought it. Why make him feel bad?
Modified by AlabamaDan at 8:10 AM 2/16/2008

[lino]

[Haitian_King]

Bwa ha ha ha ha!

[Q451990]

I hate to pile on, but I have had bad luck with Python reman injectors. Put a set of 8 in "Q1" back in the late 90's - which resulted in a bleed-down problem that caused hard starts after a hot soak. O-rings were fine. After that I replaced all 8 with OEM and ran the car trouble-free for about 95K miles.

According to TJ (Joe's predecessor at Infiniti of Scottsdale) remanufactured are known for this... at least at that time. Members have had good results with injectors from Deutchwerks - so if I was going to try remans, that would be my choice...

Heath

[RAP]

I hate to pile on, but I have had bad luck with Python reman injectors. Put a set of 8 in "Q1" back in the late 90's - which resulted in a bleed-down problem that caused hard starts after a hot soak. O-rings were fine. After that I replaced all 8 with OEM and ran the car trouble-free for about 95K miles.

According to TJ (Joe's predecessor at Infiniti of Scottsdale) remanufactured are known for this... at least at that time. Members have had good results with injectors from Deutchwerks - so if I was going to try remans, that would be my choice...

Heath

If anyone knows of a way to "RE-MAN" an injector for a gasoline engine

PLEASE come forward. A lessor term is "re-conditioned" ? ? ?

[goody90q45]

If anyone knows of a way to "RE-MAN" an injector for a gasoline engine..PLEASE come forward. A lessor term is "re-conditioned"?

I agree. Remanufactured implies that the injector has been disassembled to the shell and rebuilt with new parts (i.e. alternators, starters). If you remove more than the orings and pintle cap from a fuel injector it's toast.

DeatschWerks (and Python?) sonically clean the FI exterior, replace the o-rings and pintle cap, sonically flow a cleaning agent through the injector, and finally hook it up to a flow meter to verify that its putting out the amount of fuel it's rated for (470?) . If it still ohms good and flows at the proper rate after all this its been reconditioned and is ready for reuse.

On a happier note, I should be getting back my fuel rail from DeatschWerks today or Monday. I sent it in with 8 FI that all ohmed good but they called and one dropped out since its flow rate was more than 2% out of family. I'll be installing a fuel rail with 8 injectors that all ohm good and flow at the same rate. Hopefully they'll work well for a long time. I hedged my bets though and had the 3 tan tops mounted at #1, #2 and #8 positions. The other 5 are purple tops.

[BCC93QT]

OK. well a new problem has occured this morning when i started the car. First, for about a week now it has been getting slow or weak starts. But today i turn the key and nothing happens. not even the clicking sound of a dead battery. Took me 3 mins to get it started and the check engine light comes on. When i reach around 25 MPH or 3000RMP the whole car starts bucking and jerking. When i have it in neutral or park the bucking starts around 2000RPM. I can hear a slight clicking noise and now it sounds like its literrally a boat. Ya it is starting to get that noticeable chug chug sound when u give it a little gas. Fluids are all flushed recently and filled. all 8 plugs/wires recently done. still have to do injectors and pump. Had some bad floods last week. Possibley the distrubutor? not sure where to start at this point. The car just doesnt seem to have even half the horsepower it had yesterday. And now i cant even go over 30 MPH. Help if possible? would be much appreciated.
Modified by BCC93QT at 9:27 AM 2/16/2008

[BCC93QT]

Oh yeah. lets add on the fact that the doors keep locking and unlocking like it would when its not even running

[BCC93QT]

Okay. 3 hours of searching has led me to belive the slight jerk when i start the car and the red hot multicolored catalytic converter under my car is my problem. 4 times around the block. running different each time. am i wrong on this one? any suggestions?
Modified by BCC93QT at 10:14 AM 2/16/2008

[Haitian_King]

Sounds like your run-of-the-mill demonic possession. Yep.

You checked the FSM yet?

How's it idle? Checked that MAF?

[SUB ZERO CAR FANATIC]

Did you say you have or havent put in your injectors,yet!

[maxnix]

Before you get too much invested, have you read the timing chain guide article?

[BCC93QT]

havent bought injectors yet. Doing the fuel pump first then injectors but i know the converter is bad. Not sure what i will get done first. Monday and Tuesday i got the garage. MAF i already checked and is working fine. Cleaned as well not more than a month ago with air filter. The idle is horrible around 500-600rpm give it a little gas they rise and fall to around 0 shuts right off or kicks back up falling and rising a few times until resting at 600rpms or so. Fuel pump has something to do with that as well. No i have not read the timing chain article. I have a big book of maintenance records. Florida car untill 2003 no records passed 2005 presumeabley when my X landlord got his hands on it.
Modified by BCC93QT at 5:50 PM 2/16/2008

[BCC93QT]

read the chain guide article. i guess im going to be taking more $ out than i thought. I still have to check the big huge pile of records to see if it was done already though. Thinking i might with dual exhaust when i replace the converters. This week is going to be a busy one. Get some pics up when i get a new battery for my digi.

[Q451990]

Red hot convertors probably indicate a fuel mixture problem... e.g. running very rich or very lean. They may or may not be toast - but I don't think just replacing your cats will solve your problems.

Heath

[GseaQ]

Red hot convertors probably indicate a fuel mixture problem... e.g. running very rich or very lean. They may or may not be toast - but I don't think just replacing your cats will solve your problems.

Heath

I agree, Heath. Red hot exhaust means dangerous, piston melting lean air/fuel mixture. The red convertor is a symptom, not a cause, although after running that hot for a while it could very well be TOAST. Sorry, I couldn't help it!

Seriously, though, BCC93QT, if it's idling rough, but not making any noticeable popping noises in the exhaust or intake, I sort of doubt you've had a piece of chain guide jump the chain. I mean, I've seen a chain or belt jump a tooth before (not on a Q) and still had a smooth idle but only about 2 horsepower. I think most Q's that have a chain jump due to guides die immediately and irreversibly. I have heard the odd one will still run, but maybe with bent valves, hence the popping I mentioned.

I think you still have a chance of survival, but you may have a couple of problems going on. I'd say a fuel pump and maybe a couple of injectors for sure.

One more thing, at our car's age, it's VERY common to find vacuum hoses cracked and leaking. I just 2 weeks ago found the EGR and FPR vacuum hoses both cracked (almost looked cut) halfway through. That'll mess up your idle AND make it inconsistent.

Good luck,Glenn

[GseaQ]

The Q needs a new battery every 3-4 years (I got 5 from the last one, not the norm) and when it goes it'll cause the issues you mentioned with the starting and maybe even the locks, but really, the locks are somewhat of a known issue, often the lock actuator in the passenger front door. A bad battery is hard on the alternator which is quite an expensive repair, so spend $80-100 on a battery - the right group and CCA. Costco sells good ones for that price.

When the alternator goes bad you'll usually see a couple of warning lights on together - I think the battery and ABS lights.

[GseaQ]

...all 8 plugs/wires recently done. still have to do injectors and pump. Had some bad floods last week. Possibley the distrubutor?

Modified by BCC93QT at 9:27 AM 2/16/2008

There are no plug wires in the conventional sense. Each plug has it's own coil that plugs onto the top like an old-fashioned plug wire. There's also no distributer.

[GseaQ]

If your mixture is so lean as to make the cat(s) red hot, the you may well have damaged the knock sensors.

TIP!!! If only the convertor on one side is red, that narrows down your troubleshooting a bit. If you get high resistance reading for an injector or 2 on the same bank of the engine, it's at least some re-assurance you're on the right track.

If you have to take the plenum off to replace injectors, make sure you replace the knock sensors and hoses while in there. It's quite a big job labourwise to do more than once. I found a supplier for knock sensors here in Canada for $48 each - made in Japan, too (autopartsway.ca).