'93 J30 Slow to start after car runs awhile

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ESimmons
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 10:25 am

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Hi! new to this...here's what I have...93 J30; 137,000 miles bought from a guy a year or so ago, so not sure of maintenance history, car from Florida.

A couple of months ago, there was a problem where the car would hesitate, sputter, and cut off any time I was at a red light, or at drive thru window. Mechanic put it on the diagnostic system and couldn't find anyting wrong; later tightened up a battery cable and voila! It worked.

Now (started about 3 weeks ago), when I run the car a while (get on interestate, run errands) and turn it off, say to go into the grocers; I come back and the car won't start. It will turn over, but won't catch. If I keep the key turned forward and hold the gas down slightly, it does eventually catch and crank. At the shop now...mechanic doesn't find anything from the diagnostics, checked battery, alternator, not sure what else.

I thought injector or fuel pump, but he thinks the fuel pump is fine. Nothing of a mechanic myself and the Infiniti is new to me. Hope this is enough info to get a little help. Thanks!:help


DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Welcome! Did your mechanic bother to check the fuel pressure? Are you implying that the car will start easier if left alone for longer periods...overnight?

forecast
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 6:44 am
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I don't think two problems are related. Some cars are designed to stop in case of an open battery wire situation, which it seems like you had before.

This is a tricky one to diagnose since it could be any of a number of items from fuel pressure (five components there), MAF sensor, wiring harness, poor connectors.

Does it ever stall when hot? Stall right after starting when hot?

I think it's signifigant that you need to move the accelerator some to start it. It is critical to restating to have the gas down slightly?

I'd start with a fuel pressure check. Be sure the pressue is checked on the fuel rail (maybe where the two rails bridge) to elminate the pulsation dampener.

ESimmons
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 10:25 am

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DAEDALUS: The mechanic said he checked the fuel pressure and it was fine. Yes, it is true that the car starts easier when left alone for long periods.

forecast: It does not stall when hot, even right after starting it. As far as how far the pedal is down, we were trying to keep from giving it too much gas.

So, I should start with verifying that the fuel pressure was checked on the fuel rail?

Would I get a problem like this if the fuel filter needed to be replaced?

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PalmerWMD
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 3:14 pm
Car: 2004 350Z

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Gurus:

How about vapor lock?Would be consistent with the gas pedal all way down to start (ECU fires plugs but adds no fuel)+the cut off when stopping w/ runniong engine+as well as the difficulty in diagnosis?

Fred..:)

forecast
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palmerwnd correct me if I'm wrong - vapor lock is problem that can't occur at Fuel Injected pressures. Vapor lock is essentially when the fuel cooks off the most explosive and therefore useful molecules in fuel. In closed system, the fuel can't evaporate much since the tank becomes pressurised against the vapor canister.

Fuel filter problems are more often indicated by engine stumle after long periods (15 sec) of acceleration.

I'll bet the mechanic checked it at the proper point.

However that does bring to mind the possibilty of a very bad tank of gas - but three weeks seems to rule this out.

Where do you live E? The car is from Florida, but yourself? What is the daily air temp? When the car is running are there any other symptoms? Low power, ecessive noise? Missing at idle? Did this problem start suddenly or gradually. When cranking with feet off the accelerator does it ever fire (slight surge in cranking speed) Does it start any more quickly at Wide Open Throttle (becareful about this!)

When it comes to starting a fuel injected car, too much throttle isn't the same problem as it used to be with carbourator driven cars - flooding. The problem is that the car shouldn't be raced after starting - hard on the engine components.

Did the mechanic pull a plug to check for fouling? I wonder about the strength of the spark - heat induced power transistor failure?

At this point i'm really just guessing?

ESimmons
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 10:25 am

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FORECAST: I'm pretty close to you...Nashville, TN. Actually, I do buy gas at the same location...maybe I can try somewhere different to see if that helps?

Daily air temp has varied from 60-80 degrees F during the hours I'm driving the car. This problem started suddenly just before Easter (mid-April) when it got warmer outside.

When the car is running, there are no other symptoms. Even when idle there is no indication of a problem. It is just when trying to start the car after I've been driving a bit, though it does not happen all the time...just every now and then.

When cranking with my foot off the accelerator it starts fine SOMETIMES (which is my first way to start it)...never noticed a surge in cranking speed. Can't say that it starts any more quickly at wide open throttle...don't know that I've paid much attention to that.

I'll make sure they thorougly checked the plugs and pay more attention for the symptoms you mentioned.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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If you sit and idle for extended periods and the idle roughens, it could be debris in the tank.

I would use the 90% methyl alcohol solution (Heet?) Q45tech recommends to purge any water. A good practice anyway to reduce corrosion.


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