Post by
rsmithdrift »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/rsmithdrift-u36706.html
Sun May 28, 2006 9:52 pm
OK, I have 2 problems......
But first, what I've already done......
I have done oil change to synth. Changed belts, new 02 sensor, new CTS, cleaned MAF and TB, removed AIV from intake track, installed short ram intake, new coil, new NGK plugs + wires, new cap, new rotor, new fuel filter, ran fuel injector cleaner, disconnected and cleaned all elect. connections uner hood, set timing to 25* and still able to run 89 without knock. I can go all the way advanced actually w/o knock ON 89!! Which I find very odd. But to be safe I keep it at 25*. The computer always reads 14 only......I cut the yellow/green wire.
Here's the problem.....The car just a few days ago decided to not idle right all of a sudden......it dropped down to 200 rpm. It consistantly now drops to 200 when I put in the clutch to slow for a stop light or whatever.....if it doesn't stall it'll slowly recover back to 600.
My idle used to be 900 after I cleaned the TB and MAF.....I had to adjust the screw under the throttle arm to get it down to 700. Still wasn't particularly consistant. Some days it'd be 800, sometimes it'd be 500. It never could decide. Now it'll idle 600 all day untill I drive off and then put in the clutch.....then it drops to 200 for a few seconds........then SLOWLY comes back.
The other problem is even after all this new stuff I still bog out untill 4500rpm. It bogges just the same no matter where the ignition timing is set. I tried 15*, I tried 20*, now I'm at 25*. Only thing it'll affect is the power once over 5k rpm. More advance always meaning more power. And it still doesn't really pull like it should. I can't catch second for the life of me unless I'm turning really hard. I have to really push it and downshift to climb mountains that my N/A Z31 wouldn't even notice.
In my efforts to find the problems I decided to unplug the TPS while it was idleing to see what would happen and it stalled. I pushed up the EGR valve and it didn't stick and it stalled. I played with all the sensor connections I could think of and nothing fixed it. Playing with my ignition timing doesn't fix it. I still have code 14 only after clearing and test driving for 30 minutes.
Damn.......that was long and drawn out......
So how do I figure out this car's problem. Could the knock sensor be out and it not show a code?? Could the AAC, FICD, IACV, whatever all those are, be bad??
Please help.....I'm at the end of my rope here.