93' 240sx Shell with rust

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!

Keep it or Junk it?

Its worth the work to repair the rust.
2
67%
The rust is already at the point of no return. Junk it
1
33%
Try and trade around for a better shell.
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 3

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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I'm brand new to the forums and still kinda brand new to working on cars. However, I purchased a 1993 240 shell off craigslist about a week ago for 300$. The owner was parting it out before I got it so I need to get an engine, transmission, driveshaft, gas/clutch pedals and sensors and a gas tank. I dont know whether this was a good deal or not but quite frankly, I dont care. I really wanted a project to start on and 300$ was all I could afford at the time. But upon further examination, I have found rust inside the engine bay where the battery used to sit. After alot of hammering, I punched clean through into the wheel well.
Im wondering if the engine bay is too rusted to repair, I'll post pictures of the affected area and let you guys decide. Any professional advice would be greatly appreciated.
-Rollins
[img][img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2912/144 ... d1cc_s.jpg[/img]Untitled[/img]
[img][img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/142 ... 11f4_s.jpg[/img]Untitled[/img]
[img][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/144 ... a7c6_s.jpg[/img]Untitled[/img]


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Razi
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Yeah that's pretty busted, but I think you could fix it.

Any amount of damage is repairable, it just comes down to how much money you're willing to spend on it.

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
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That doesnt look too bad. Look for a flux core welder on Craig's list. Probably pay about 50-100$ get a cheap angle grinder for 15$ and cut it up take your time. You could get some 18g metal from lowes and you'd be set probably cost less then 200$ with parts. Before you do anything check for rust on the frame rails all under the car and the hatch/trunk. If its too rusty your better off selling it or parting out and buying a another. If you do go that way and its a hatch I need a dome light cover if you have a sun roof :) good luck

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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Thanks for the advice, sorry about the delay in response. I've been busy taking summer classes and can't find alot of time to spend on her. I did manage to make some progress however on the rusted area. All it took was alotta hammering, sanding and a paint job to clean up the area. This definitely isn't permanent but it should help slow down the rust process until I get it professionally fixed. But what do I know, do you guys think that its fine for now? If so, i'd like to move onto other parts of the car needing help.

Here's a picture of the "new" engine bay for now
Image

Also, could somebody direct me to a good page for putting in an ls1 motor? I think that's what I decided to put in her :ohno:

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

Post

get the body and suspension ready before you need think about an engine like that also what kind of paint did you use there's a type of paint that's called a rust converter that's what you're gonna want to use.

if you just use spray paint its not going to really help. If anything it'll hold moisture and spread the rust. You need to sand to bear metal and primer then spray it at the very least.

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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waxdnuggz wrote:get the body and suspension ready before you need think about an engine like that also what kind of paint did you use there's a type of paint that's called a rust converter that's what you're gonna want to use.

if you just use spray paint its not going to really help. If anything it'll hold moisture and spread the rust. You need to sand to bear metal and primer then spray it at the very least.
I've been cleaning up around the underbody looking for rust and havent found anything yet. But yeah, I used the rust converter spray can on it after I sanded it all down. I didnt post any pictures of the process but I did alot of sanding before painting it. What should I do suspension wise if I wanted to put in a ls motor?

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

Post

Maintenance before performance. Check all your bushings especially your subframe and tension rods. Your at least gonna want some stiffer lowering springs and new shocks unless you plan on drag racing then stock springs would be better. Stiffen up the body a bit. (Strut mounts, c pillar brace, tension rod brace. Then look into a motor. There's no point if you have a 350hp motor and cant get it to hook.

Thats great. If you dont find rust work on the areas that usually rust like the spare tire well and the fr a rails near the front of the doors that's where the run off water drips. Spray them with rust converter and then rubberize undercover them that way you'll never have a problem. With the spare tire well just make sure there's no surface rust. The reason hatchs leak is the gummy stuff around the tail lights aren't sealed and the hatch weatherstripping is old so check that and you should be good.

You know I have to ask. Why an ls1? :) That's what im planning well a 5.3 ls based motor anyways but same process basically but 2k cheaper.

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

Post

Oh an p.s. you dont need that little hole professionally fixed that's tiny. But some sheet metal and cut and bend it how you want and booger weld that thing in. This isn't gonna be a show car I assume mount your battery in the trunk and say f it

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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waxdnuggz wrote:Oh an p.s. you dont need that little hole professionally fixed that's tiny. But some sheet metal and cut and bend it how you want and booger weld that thing in. This isn't gonna be a show car I assume mount your battery in the trunk and say f it
As it stands, I still haven't decided what my plans are for this car actually. I want to get her new-car quality at first and then see how I feel about it after that. One things for sure though, and its that form will follow function. I wan't it to be perfect mechanically before I turn her into something that's nice to look at. But don't get me wrong, I still want her to be as appealing as possible.
Another thing that I want is to do all the work myself, I dont want to pay somebody else to do something that I can. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the tools needed to do it all myself. Im sure i'll need help along the way but i'd like to be able to do the work. (i'll probably rent the tools as I need them)
One issue in particular is the high price for sandblasting, my friend has an air compressor but i'm not too sure if I could use to for sandblasting. If I could, can somebody post a link of the parts needed?

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

Post

Thats how they do sandblasting is with an air compressor do you have a harbor freight tools near you? Its like 100$ for the attachment tool.

Edit http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearc ... sand+blast

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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waxdnuggz wrote:Thats how they do sandblasting is with an air compressor do you have a harbor freight tools near you? Its like 100$ for the attachment tool.

Edit http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearc ... sand+blast
Thank god, I had a hunch but I wasn't too sure. I've gotta find the details of his compressor before I get the wrong piece but thanks for putting me in the right direction; I'm pretty unfamiliar with the whole sandblasting concept, would I have to strip the engine bay completely if I wanted to blast the entire thing? I've still got brake lines in and the harness is still there. Here's a pic of what the engine bay looks like currently, any advice on where to go from here would be much appreciated.
Image

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asoomal
Posts: 2374
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:45 pm
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored)
Location: Canada

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waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

Post

I would take the harnesses out of the engine bay but it's not necessary you can sand blast around them. when you sandblast it's a pretty narrow spray almost like a pressure washer before you sandblast it though you're gonna wanna make sure you get it as clean and grease and dirt free as you can you'll get the best results that way as for the brake lines you don't have to take them outjust put a plastic bag around the master cylinder with the lid on are you planning on sand blasting your entire engine bay or just parts of it it's not really a need to sandblast the entire thing unless you're doing a full-blown restoration

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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waxdnuggz wrote:I would take the harnesses out of the engine bay but it's not necessary you can sand blast around them. when you sandblast it's a pretty narrow spray almost like a pressure washer before you sandblast it though you're gonna wanna make sure you get it as clean and grease and dirt free as you can you'll get the best results that way as for the brake lines you don't have to take them outjust put a plastic bag around the master cylinder with the lid on are you planning on sand blasting your entire engine bay or just parts of it it's not really a need to sandblast the entire thing unless you're doing a full-blown restoration
I really wanna get the engine bay all prettied up though before I throw the engine in because it's alot easier now, I doubt that i'll make it a show car but I really want to go over the top while i'm preparing it for the engine transplant. So I think i'm probably gonna sandblast the entire engine bay and paint it some random color lol, lime green or a bright blue is what i'm thinking currently because the body is gonna be black in the end and I think it'll add a nice touch instead of murdering it out. This whole process has to be as cheap as possible though because i'm still saving up for the engine too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-ab ... 92857.html
I went out and bought this yesterday, the guy told me that it was all I need for a small job like that.

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rollinsstewart
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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That looks like what I need but seems pricey, could you give me a link of what the part looks like in real life? Cause I might just have a piece of sheetmetal welded in

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asoomal
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:45 pm
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored)
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Image

Part 64132

I have a feeling that there is gonna be more rust where the 3 layers of sheet metal meet.

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rollinsstewart
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:53 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx (Hatchback)

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asoomal wrote:Image

Part 64132

I have a feeling that there is gonna be more rust where the 3 layers of sheet metal meet.
Yeah you're right, there is some rust in there. I couldn't really get to it with the wire brush.
I discovered the glory or the wire brush drillbit today and went to town for a good 5 hours, the paint that I covered the rust with has been mostly erased and I got rid of a lot of rust but theres still a good amount left. I think i'll try out the sandblaster tomorrow.
Heres a couple pics:
Image
Image


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