hey all, so ive already been doing searches on this particular problem for the last week or so and thought that i would be ok just by doing that. i have replaced a number or parts to no prevail.

another bad acceleration problem.. heres my story .

(this first section is all leading up to the problems, read if you'd like , may have something to do with my current problem)

car was running great, i was driving it daily, and somewhat hard on some nights. my power steering pump had been out for a while which wasnt a huge probem to me but got annoying. i went out to a drift day and was running my car pretty hard throughout the day, but it was runing great the whole time, i even drove it another 100 miles after to get home, wth no problems. the next day i went in and replaced my P/S pump and belts and fluid. during that procedure i removed the airfilter and took the cap off the rotor to give myself room (did not take out the distributor). finished all that up and went for a spin.. car felt great no power loss P/S was working awesome. a few miles from home my belt blew off. got out , unmangled it and noticed that one ply had been torn i thought it was from it being loose but i then noticed that my crank pulley was not factory and ony had 2 grooves instead of three. using my resources i cut the belt down to 2 plys so it would work. got back in the car and drove it home, with no problems.**So heres where things started going really wrong.**The next night i went to go drivng with some friends, as we were heading out my car felt as if it was loosing power and was getting worse with the more gas i gave it, i figured that it was just because of my janky belt so i got out and checked it, i tightened it a little but it wasnt off by much, we start driving again and it its doing the same thing , (great i tightened it too much, i hought) so i pull over and mess with it some more, get back in and its still doing the same thing. so i decide to call it a night and start heading back home. i went to merge onto the freeway but was only able to give it about 10% gas without it wanting to die out and sputter and bog (as if a misfire) i pull over ..again pop the hood realizing that its beyond the belts. check all the wires, they were all tight checked all my cennections, all good. (im stumped) I get back in the car and onto the freeway again. after letting it sit for a min it felt as if it had a tad bit more power but not much. i was babying it the whole way barely giving it 15% throttle and it was getting worse and worse the further i went. by the time i got onto my road and to the first hill i was unable to give it any gas at all, anything id give it would make it want bog down and sputter more and more but it never died, i had to park the car down the road and walked. next day i went to my car , started it right up and drove it right up the hill, still had accel problems but made it. its as if the hotter it get the worse it runs.

sorry about the lenght of this but i woudnt beable to give all the details with out... please stay with me.

so in the daylight i go over everything.. i noticed my wiring harness going through the passenger side fender had dropped down and was rubbing on the tire, exposing a few wires, i imediately fix that. doesnt help..next i notice a few connectors the are bad about 3 or 4 of them. including my o2 sensore wire. i had another harness so instead of trying to splice the 02 and everything else i just threw in my other Engine harness. along with that i replaced *TPS , *temp sensor, *swapped the MAF, *new cat, *plugs, wires, coil, the rotor and contacts looked good so i didnt replace, *knock sensor, *fuel pump, *fuel filter and re-did the timing.

my car is still running like crap hasnt gotten any better, what else could possibly be wrong? please any help would much appreciated.

its a 93 dual cam. intake, altima intake cams, butterfly restrictor valves removed.

There is a lot of possibilities and to hard to tell without seeing/driving the car myself. But since it wasn't replaced, take a close look at the rotor. It's possible that it is shorting out to the distr. shaft. So most of the spark gets fed into the shaft and not to the cap.

thank you for the quick reply. i just got home its a little dark but i ordered a new distributor, cap and rotor. gotta wait til tommorow its a little too cold and dark now. ill let you know how it goes.

I only skimmed through your story, but check your ecu for codes. If there is multiple codes, reset your ecu, and wait til it gets codes again to narrow it down, because the wires you messed up before, im sure tripped codes.

well, i wasnt getting any CEL and i havnt reset disconected the battery yet, so i will also try that in the morning. on my car to check the number that the ECU would be throwing , my CEL will flash a certain amount of times right? like 3 flashes then 4 flashes = 34. this is what i was told by a friend that has a 91.thank you for the reply.

so i finally just got a chance to get the new cap and rotor on and it definately helped but not completely. it still feels like its misfiring at higher rpms , and still sometimes when i give it more than 40% gas. i also reset the ecu ..

also , i realized my temp gauge in the dash is not working. i checked the single wire connector, i stuffed a wire inside of it and grounded the other end with the ign turned to ON. and nothing happened. could this have anything to do with everything?thanks

Maybe you need a new distributor? Your situation sounds similar to my neighbor's. Inthis case it wasn't a 240, it was a 92 Toyota truck, but still with a 4 cyl motor that was bogging after a night of drag racing and it kept getting worse until it couldn't go anymore. The next day he swapped in a used(better condition) distributor and it was like new again.

Being that the car uses a seperate coolant temp sensor for the ecu and the gauge, it probably has no relation.

Shot in the dark-sometimes the EGRs only clog on 1 or more cylinders. So sometimes 100% of the EGR gasses are being pumped into 1 or 2 cylinders only. This will definitely cause misfires and poor running under load. I imagine this would happen gradually over time though.

Being that the car uses a seperate coolant temp sensor for the ecu and the gauge, it probably has no relation.

Shot in the dark-sometimes the EGRs only clog on 1 or more cylinders. So sometimes 100% of the EGR gasses are being pumped into 1 or 2 cylinders only. This will definitely cause misfires and poor running under load. I imagine this would happen gradually over time though.

Another possibility- the p/s pump seizing caused the timing chain to jump a tooth. You would need to confirm cam timing to know this.

check ig. Timing

checked it.. and retimed it according to the timing tutorial . here.

zerothread/253879

took it out for a spin.. still feeling sluggish through 2nd gear up to about 4200 rpms , noticed it a little misfire feeling around 3500 in 3rd. i live in a windng road area so its kinda hard to get up to redline.

also scared to go for too long due to my temp gauge not working

"bump"

im still trying to figure this out.

how long did u have ur belt off? u might of over heated ur engine when ur had ur belt off or loose was it hot outside?

the belt was off for long enough to make a U-turn and pull over..

a while back when i first blew the pump i almost overheated the car. got the temp to rise pretty high, but nothing blew. as of right now it still has the Homemade (2 ply) belt. and i havnt yet changed the crank pulley.

arighty well i got the car running better, prett good actually. but after about 15 mins of driving i get a Code # 35. also , i got my temp gauge working again as well. the wire going to my ecu hadnt been connected, so i spliced it in and it works..

but now after a few miles of driving the temp gauge rises to all the way hot! the first time it happened i pulled over let it cool down and started driving again, it started to get to the overheating line again but i just kept going. shortly after it dropped back down to regular temp again.. could my Code # 35 (EGR temp Sensor) be causing this? it kinda seems like a thermostat to me..

anyone??

i found out that code 35 (EGR temp sensor) is for California models with all the emmision controls. apparently my car had that all removed and replacing the harness without putting a transistor into the egr plug was causing the code.

so your fixed?

yea, i think so. ill post if anything else goes wrong. but as of now im onnly throwing a code 35 (EGR temp sensor). but i dont have one .

thanks everyone for all the help

How did you solve you slow accel problem

I know dead thread but id really like to know what you did, I have a 89 single cam but I have same issue as you