92 300z 2+2 NA Compression low in 5 cylinders!!

[ZNME]

So I finally get the car i want.. Call the guy selling it. Meet him and the car. He tells me there is an issue with oil leaking and battery was dying, but still runs good. I buy it and drive it home. Parked it til the next day. Next evening i start the car but it was sluggish, the battery i thought. So i replace that battery with the one in my truck, just to get it started ( A friend was going to look @ my oil problem) Still didnt start but had more power. So this dumb a** turns and turns and turns it over...flooding it. Started to smell oil & gas. Pulled the dipstick and yep, gas mixed with the oil.

After a few days pass and conversasions later about what it could be, someone said its your security system. This is what you do to fix it. Turn the key this way & that way and viola! didnt work. I read on a site that someone pulled the 10amp fuse and it worked. So i did that (note i havent tried to start the car again yet). I get in the car and start it, it starts so i think yay i fixed it. So i turn the car off. Started it again about 5 mins later it starts then it shuts down in like 4 seconds. Turned the key again and it wont start so at this point i checked the spark plugs and they are saturated in fuel. But i did get spark from coil pks. Called a shop and had it towed to them. The Compression test results are

Cylinders;
1)70psi
2)95psi
3)85psi
4)155psi
5)70psi
6)45psi
They said they did a wet test and the reading was the same if not lower. So they checked the timing and its fine. They did a Compression test on the radiator/ coolant. Water came out from below. There wasnt anything in the radiator. He asked if it ran hot or if the check engine light was on when i drove it that day, the answer is no for both. IDK WHAT TO DO!! Please, offer some advice

[es.biggs]

The coolant came from below? Was there any more details? I wouldn't pay for a pressure test if the mechanic can't tell you where the leak is coming from.

Those compression numbers are crazy. Maybe a leak down test is next in line...

How did they check the timing did they take all of the timing covers off to count teeth?

Your car probably wasn't starting because of the wet spark plugs.

From the low coolant and compression results, it sounds like you might have warped heads from overheating. Smoke from the exhaust would be expected though if this was the case. Did the car smoke at all when you drove it? Even just a little? You say the car ran good - was it idling smooth? Would you say the engine had decent power?

If you are planning on driving it the way it is, you should at the very least change the oil and put new spark plugs in it. Make sure you put the right OEM spark plugs in - you know how to do research from what you posted above - I can't remember the part number but it's easy to find. Also, definitely have whoever is working on it isolate the coolant leak. Whether its coming from the head gasket, a cracked head, heater hose, thermostat, water pump, it could be a million things making the coolant drip down and leak below the engine.

[vg1134]

Sounds like your car was over heated and it has warped heads like mentioned. I'm sure if you let the engine get cold and clean does plugs it will start, but once it gets hot it should die out on you. Hot meaning normal operating temperature.
I don't know what you paid for the car, but sounds like he sold you a lemon. Ppl like that give other a bad rap when selling our cars.

[es.biggs]

Just some food for thought - I bought a pair of tt heads from somebody for $200. He told me the car overheated and they were probably a little warped. I figured I'd just get them decked and use them - my guy at the machine shop told me he had to take .030" of material off to get the surface perfect again. .030" is a HUGE amount. I didn't use them because I would have had to use super thick head gaskets to make up for the loss of metal on the heads. So what I'm trying to say is I know first hand that these heads will warp with severe overheating.

Good luck man, hoping the best for ya

[J30tChumpCar]

Those compression numbers are crazy and dare I say inaccurate, the flooded situation has rendered the technician confused or something as the extra fuel will temporarily render the cyls low PSI. I know you state wet and dry but I dont buy that, why?

ANY gas engine will not idle (in any particular cyl) with compression below 90psi so you would have noticed a very bad idling or stalling engine as only 2 holes have enough to run @ idle.

OR

Your trip home started with a decent but water leaking engine and you overheated it badly enough to damage the heads on the way home.(Note a totally empty radiator may not indicate overheat, no water for the sensor to measure the temp..)

Suggestions? Locate the water leak, new spark plugs and oil change, get it running again, go from there.

[ZNME]

To es biggs he said the water was coming from the radiator..couldve been the motor. They told me they checked timing but at this point I'm not sure they did. They took front panels off and said that my oil problem was the front main seal and said the timing was fine..whatever. To chump car, when I left the prior owner I thought about the oil leaking and nothinglse..ima girl lol I watched my temp indicator and I wasn't alarmed by anything.. Someone said at this point it could be timing and warped heads based on the fact I was driving it prior to it not starting. So do you guys think I should be able to change the fluids add water change plugs and get it going at least to get more info on what the problem really is?..i appreciate all your repsponses. I have a motor lift available just needing help. anyone wanting to offer time I can pay

[ZNME]

So even with possible timing water and head issues I can still p put water in the car, change plugs, and oil and get it to stay?

[es.biggs]

I agree with Chump's post - those compression numbers are so crazy it doesn't even make sense lol. If you have any doubts about trusting the shop/mechanic that has your car I would definitely go get a second opinion. Like Chump said - I'd get the car running (fix the coolant leak, change the oil, change the spark plugs) and go from there. Definitely have a compression test done by somebody else after it's running again.

OR - do the comp test yourself - all you need are some very basic hand tools and a compression tester (30-40 bucks at an auto parts store) It's not hard, and that way you KNOW it was done right

[J30tChumpCar]

Honestly a compression test is not needed if the thing gets running and idles smoothly...(flame this comment if you want but I do this every day and being pretty general if idle is smooth it HAS to be in decent enough shape)

Yes focus on a good battery, new plugs and oil change, fill with plain water or repair the leak and see if it recovers from its "fit" .The front seal is is done when you get a timing belt/water pump but focus on getting it to start and run, go from there. A second opinion aint a bad idea.

[ZNME]

Ok.. Thats what I'm going to do.. Idk why it started that one day but oits is leading me to believe that out may not be as bad as it seems...thank you guys sooooo soo much.. Im still open for suggestions. But im going to take your advice. And let you know how this is working out.

[es.biggs]

Honestly a compression test is not needed if the thing gets running and idles smoothly

I'd still get it based on the results of the first test