mac , because it looks VERY-much the same as my VG30DE (J30 motor) , and I had 3 mos. ago put in Timing SET.
Dude I think I see some for sure things to be concerned : 1) that "Roller (pulley) is NOT the TENSIONER
2) That top roller is an "IDLER" also sounds "Anemic" (bearings noisy) 3 ) There's a SECOND "IDLER" lower Rt. ?4 ) Shoulda replaced those and > 5) Tensioner @ lower L. IS Adjustable , shall take up that definately / obvious /incorrect "SLACK" you have 6 ) Tensioner Adj SEE FSM

but MAY go like this = loosen / compress tens. plunger piston to SPEC. Now you install a small screw into body to HOLD SPEC / move tensioner into/against belt with moderate to "Heavy hand pressure" , tighten / tork to spec tensioner swivel-arm to spec. / NOW DONT FORGET TO REMOVE "holding bolt" , HAND crank motor 2+ revolutions CHECKING any interference problems etc. COMPLETELY ,YA GOT right tenion now - NO ??? Then REPEAT #6 Until you "Gottit"

most important , man did you only get the Belt and no NEW idlers or tensioner ? Set has - belt & two idle rollers and one roller for the tensioner ARM assy. ( ***note they are ALL a DIFFERENT mtg. SETBACK - ea. has it's own specific location) . A key component on tensioner ARM is a hydraulic / spring loaded "piston" which KEEPS tension and MUST be "CORRECT" after final adj. - which is "usually" HALF of the fully extended "relaxed state (example if all the way out =5mm ,then proper tensioner Adj = tip = 2 1/2 mm

). These are things "at a glance" I hope help you do it well w/best reults . Respectfully GT 2/24/2018