Every 1500 miles or 3 months, that is real passion and dedication!Peabody wrote:Thanks for the input.
The owner kept all maintenance records on the car. He drove it for the 1st 2 years about 9K a year and then drove it as a Sunday driver only for 20 years. The T tops have never been removed and also the windows down on rare occasions hence the new car smell & always in a climate controlled garage. I hope to take her home this week and will post better pics. I know he had the oil changed every 1,500 miles or every 3 months. The timing belt has never been changed and I will decide if I need to change it.
He did say 1 or 2 speakers do not work because of the bose amps. I am planing on keeping the car totally stock, maybe K&A air filters so I would like to get the factory radio working and I could just use a cass adapter for my Ipod. I have many mixed tapes from the 80's & 90's that would bring back memories.
just do the timing belt all OEM and never have a worry! its recommended every 4 years or 60k. 22 year old timing belt?Peabody wrote:. The timing belt has never been changed and I will decide if I need to change it.
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I'd listen to the man here. After one summer in my low mileage Z, I decided that the 1500 was a good insurance measure so the that's the first thing I did the following summer.Rager wrote:just do the timing belt all OEM and never have a worry! its recommended every 4 years or 60k. 22 year old timing belt?Peabody wrote:. The timing belt has never been changed and I will decide if I need to change it.
.you went through the trouble to buy a very low mile clean Z, now protect your investment. -dropping 1500 to do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners ect. its just part of owning a Z . the VG is a zero tolerance motor, so if the timing belt breaks or skips to far its game over. welcome to the dark side. also check your power steering rack for leaks . very common problem.
post pics when you get home.
You will probably be running in the 20mpg range if you are easy on it and drive freeway miles, less around town and depending on how hard you get on it- maybe down to 15-16 mpg.Peabody wrote: What kind of real world gas mileage can I expect if you drove the car easy which might be hard to do when I first get it.
Thanks
NO, you are right and were VERY smart to do as you did, and IMO lucky to have missed on this buy. NO WAY you should have to deal with any of what you mentioned unless it was stated ahead of time in the sales listing/pitch, the car should have worked perfectly for that kind of $ as even my $8K TTZ works nearly perfectly in all ways from the day I bought it.Peabody wrote:Well I do not own it yet.
I did not buy the car yet do to the rough idle and lack of power. I drove 330 miles to get the car and had to return home because I did not feel good about the running condition. He found out #5 injector was bad and called me and said he wanted to replace the injectors with new style 370cc purple top from Z1. He wants me to buy the injectors and he said it will take him 10 hours to do the job. He is not charging me labor but I have to cover the parts.
He got a little pissed with me when I asked if I could get the car for a lower price if I paid the $783 for the parts it is going to raise the price to $17,083 for the car. If the job does take 10 hours labor was I wrong in asking to lower the price for his time?
The brakes also have a hard pedal and a master cylinder is probably the problem. I also asked him to have that checked out and he really got mad and said not to order the parts and now he does not want to sell.
Maybe I am wrong but when you pay out $16,300 for a car you would expect it to be running in tip top condition. Am I crazy or is the seller right?