91 92 93 94 or 96 Z32 - problematic areas for purchase

[SandW]

I'm completely new to Z32s. In the past I've always tinkered with Corvette Stingrays (68 - 76 model years). I've always been able to buy one at a fair price, maintain it, minorly fix it up (mostly cosmetics) and sell it for 2 or 3 thousand more than I paid for it--so I'm spoiled I guess. I've decided to try something new. I decided to venture outside of old faithful Stingray and try a 300ZX. Wanted one for quite some time, want a Z33 even more but those things are too dang expensive for my little hobby and play car and the values drop too much being so new!!! Probably will wait another 10 years before getting one of those ;-]

Anyway, I'm looking at buying 1 or 2 of the below model years that I've found in my local area. I've listed the basic info on them and what's been done that I know about. For the most part they're all stock, except for one that's had some mechanical overhauls. Please chime in and tell me what to look for. I'm not sure if they're good deals or not. Don't want to go in the hole too much because I'll probably sell the primary keeper Z32 in 2 to 4 years for another one or go back to a vette (depends on experience I guess) and sell the othe one immediatly and try making some upgrade money for the keeper ZX.

All are non-turbo. I prefer the 2+2 due to my young kids like to ride in also. Only drawback to the vettes--only one kid at a time.

1. 1991 Coupe 2+2; 98,000 miles, 2 owners, has had 3 of the injectors changed over the last 5 years. Original bright red paint. Everything works except for the antenna. The car pulls to the right when driven and when braking (alignment or worse???). Owner said he thinks it needs an alignment but I'm questioning that because he seems like the kind of guy who would fix it if a $100 alignment was all it needed. Price: $5,250

2. 1992 Coupe 2+2; 39,000 miles, 1 elderly owner, no work known. Original silver paint, leather interior. Everything works reportedly (not inspected yet). Price: $9500 firm from small town dealer who bought it from the widow (probably for its trade value of $4K I'm guessing, loser).

3. 1993 Coupe 2+2; 108,000 miles, 2 or 3 owners, no work known. Original or redone black paint, leather interior. Everything works except antenna, missing t-top inserts and hatchback blind. When braking above 30mph, it shakes very bad as if rotors or caliper(s) are bad. Small dealer won't fix them for the price I talked him down to. Price: $5,400

4. 1994 regular Coupe; 84,000 miles, 2 or 3 owners, no work known. Original maroon paint, leather interior. Everything works (reportedly, haven't inspected yet). Price: owner hasn't made up mind. I think he wants around $8,000 or $9,000 at least, which I think is kinda high.

5. 1996 Coupe 2+2; 189,000 miles (that's right 189,000), 2 owners. Engine was swapped with unknown model/year (had 65,000 miles on swapped motor on install, 15K miles ago), 4 weeks ago the transmission rebuilt with some sort of custom shift plates/kit, and new water pump. This one looks real sweet on outside with good original/redone black paint, custom rims, but the inside is kind of out of order with BROKEN: driver seat (back bottom frame member), rear view mirror, center console lid broken in half, no A/C, probably one or two other small things. Price: $4,000

I'm leaning towards buying the 1991 to keep for myself and buying the 1996 to resell. I think I could resell for $6,000 if I fix the little stuff on the inside (not the A/C though). What do you think?

My main concern on all is major costs involved with the suspension and steering components. A guy told me (while I was testing driving his Z32) that the early years 90 - 93/94 had brake rotor/caliper issues and these years and maybe later years also had suspension/steering members that went out and were expensive because they weren't adjustable. Something about you can only adjust the toe and only to some limited extent? Is any of this true?

What should I really look out for on the 5 I'm considering, especially on the two I'm focusing on?

Lastly, should I expect to lose more money on these than make? Again, I'm used to classic 30-yr old or more vettes that get what they deserve on resale.

Thanks much! I'll post pics when I can.

[NSR240sxe]

From vette's to z32's...interesting lol

Welcome to NICO!! Good luck buying a Z

[Barry'z (NJ)]

Hmmmm...

This post looks familiar

The only cars that had brake issues were the early '90 N/A production models, which had a 26mm thick rotor as opposed to the 30mm thick rotor. I believe this was changed in 6/90 to 30mm and it was this way on all cars after that. The TT's had 30mm rotors from the beginning.

The '96 has to much history for my tastes, why a repaint? why did it need a new motor? My comments on tt.net still stand.

And welcome to Nico Forums!

[nsrZ32]

Welcome to NICO

1. 1991 Coupe 2+2; 98,000 miles, 2 owners, has had 3 of the injectors changed over the last 5 years. Original bright red paint. Everything works except for the antenna. The car pulls to the right when driven and when braking (alignment or worse???). Owner said he thinks it needs an alignment but I'm questioning that because he seems like the kind of guy who would fix it if a $100 alignment was all it needed. Price: $5,250

2. 1992 Coupe 2+2; 39,000 miles, 1 elderly owner, no work known. Original silver paint, leather interior. Everything works reportedly (not inspected yet). Price: $9500 firm from small town dealer who bought it from the widow (probably for its trade value of $4K I'm guessing, loser).

3. 1993 Coupe 2+2; 108,000 miles, 2 or 3 owners, no work known. Original or redone black paint, leather interior. Everything works except antenna, missing t-top inserts and hatchback blind. When braking above 30mph, it shakes very bad as if rotors or caliper(s) are bad. Small dealer won't fix them for the price I talked him down to. Price: $5,400

4. 1994 regular Coupe; 84,000 miles, 2 or 3 owners, no work known. Original maroon paint, leather interior. Everything works (reportedly, haven't inspected yet). Price: owner hasn't made up mind. I think he wants around $8,000 or $9,000 at least, which I think is kinda high.

5. 1996 Coupe 2+2; 189,000 miles (that's right 189,000), 2 owners. Engine was swapped with unknown model/year (had 65,000 miles on swapped motor on install, 15K miles ago), 4 weeks ago the transmission rebuilt with some sort of custom shift plates/kit, and new water pump. This one looks real sweet on outside with good original/redone black paint, custom rims, but the inside is kind of out of order with BROKEN: driver seat (back bottom frame member), rear view mirror, center console lid broken in half, no A/C, probably one or two other small things. Price: $4,000

I'm leaning towards buying the 1991 to keep for myself and buying the 1996 to resell. I think I could resell for $6,000 if I fix the little stuff on the inside (not the A/C though). What do you think?

My main concern on all is major costs involved with the suspension and steering components. A guy told me (while I was testing driving his Z32) that the early years 90 - 93/94 had brake rotor/caliper issues and these years and maybe later years also had suspension/steering members that went out and were expensive because they weren't adjustable. Something about you can only adjust the toe and only to some limited extent? Is any of this true?

What should I really look out for on the 5 I'm considering, especially on the two I'm focusing on?

Lastly, should I expect to lose more money on these than make? Again, I'm used to classic 30-yr old or more vettes that get what they deserve on resale.

Thanks much! I'll post pics when I can.

They all sound like project cars, except for the second one, and honestly I wouldn't expect to make money on any of them. 2+2 non-turbos are the least desirable of the Z32's, and if it has an automatic transmission, good luck reselling it for much.

Car #1 - Price seems fair. Antenna isn't an uncommon problem, and its easy to fix. The pulling is probably either alignment, tire problem on that side, or a brake caliper problem.

Car #2 - Not sure where you came up with it being worth $4K but it would easily bring $9500 where I live. Extremely low mile Z's, regardless of options and model, are VERY hard to find.

Car #3 - Not a bad price. Your shaking problem is warped rotors. Easy fix.

Car #4 - Price is kinda high, I'd say $7K would be about what it would sell for in my area. If you're gonna spend $9K buy car #2.

Car #5 - Run away. That car has a ton of miles, lots of little problems, and you won't make any money on that at all...ever.

[SandW]

NSRZ32:They all sound like project cars except #2? Why's that? #2 sold this morning for $10,550 to someone with more $ than sense. It's buyers like this that jack up the prices for the rest of us, at least from dealers. Most private sellers end up selling for a reasonable price, but still highly influenced by the used car salesmen. When I sell my vettes, I sell for a reasonable price that if bought from dealers would be at least 30% more. Dealers really don't do that much if anything to them. They spend $80 on a detail to make it look all lusty but leave all the work they know it needs unless a customer catches it and demands it be fixed for the price they're asking. What they bring retail is the highest price they always bring--reserved for people with more $ than sense when they get caught up in the emotional moment. I've only bought one car in my entire life from a dealer for this reason.

I thought the 96 was the only real project car being it had the most tinkering on the inside to get looking nice all around. Other than that, it seemed mechanically sound regardless of the major work that seems to have been done well enough. Is there something dealing with the suspension or other elements that the high miles make a high risk? For I know most the miles could have been highway, at leat that is the assumption. It would be very hard to put that many on 96 in the city I think. Not impossible, but that's a lot of local driving (nearly 19,000 a year). Not sure if the paint was shot or not. There are no tale-tale signs of such, I just thought it looked too good for the miles on it. However, it could have been taken very well care of and just been driven like heck on the side. These days it's not uncommon for folks to drive 100 miles or more round trip per day to work and then after that is all their pleasure driving.

I also like the 96 simply because I think the guy is honest and the work seems to have been done well. Plus, it is $1200 under trade-in value. The guy is simply straped for cash and needs the income and I've been the only cash-only (no trades) guy who has seriously considered his car.

****************************

BTW, what does NA stand for? I guess TT stands for twin turbo.

If I get two, I'm sure I'll have to sell one ASAP because I only have room for 1 in my garage. Also, the 96 comes with about $500 or more (best I can tell) of spare parts the guy stripped from the old Z he took the motor out of. I'm sure I sell them and recoup at least $500 if sold on eBay or online.

Lastly, does the 2+2 car differ significantly from the regular coupes? Someone told me they have rear suspension issues because of the modified shocks or something? I can see them weighing more, but are the chassis the same length and makeup other than the backseat and weight?

thanks much for all of your help!

[greensparcs]

NA stands for Naturally Aspirated lol id go with the low mile Z.

[WidebodyZ]

Normally aspirated (or some will say naturally aspirated). 2+2's rock, no suspension problems to date from me (91 2+2 TT) but I have full aftermarket suspension...arms and everything. 2+2 is longer and sexier. 2 seaters look squished to me. That's why most aerokits from Japan are for 2+2..most of their TT's were 2+2. Steer clear of TT.net if you really plan to modify it. Use it for info/search, but not to post. 96's an be problematic..if you plan to keep it stock and not to modify it engine wise then get it...but not if you plan to go for real power, uness you go stand alone.

[NSR_s30]

I've heard the '90's were the best to have, with them being the lightest and having no airbag(s)....etc. Plus I'm sure you could find either an NA or TT '90 for decently cheap for the year/mileage on it. Happ hunting though. Z32's are amazing cars.

[gpelite]

The only cars that had brake issues were the early '90 N/A production models, which had a 26mm thick rotor as opposed to the 30mm thick rotor. I believe this was changed in 6/90 to 30mm and it was this way on all cars after that. The TT's had 30mm rotors from the beginning.

Um yea, the calipers were frozen solid on my '90 2+2 when I bought her, I had them replaced with turbo spec ones. I never knew that the front calipers were smaller, neither did the guy I bought the new rotors from. I just opted for the upgrade after I noticed it wasn't gonna work with my current NA ones. The rear ones however are 30mm I believe, I had no problem throwin the rotors on there.

My rotors are sexy slotted and drilled... the only thing nice on the car right now that "pops" sadly