'90 S13 Fuel Pump connection questions (Pics inside)

[golgo13]

Update: Put the fuel pump (last pic) on and connected the fuel line. I put a newer fuel line with 3/8 ID which seemed a little looser than the previous one, so I just tighted the clamps as much as possible.

Update: I took out the pump and tried to improve the connections as suggested. My soldering skills are horrible as is my crappy iron so let me know what you think. I did a crimp/solder deal on the disconnects and put a new jacket and little heatshrink tube on the ends which I haven't sealed yet. Images are in this post replacing older ones (pics 2.0)

Orginal Post:

First off, I'm a novice. NEWBIE ALERT~~ Ok, got that out of the way...

At this moment, I'm doing a fuel pump replacement. I'm replacing the old pump with a new OEM pump. So far, I've removed the old pump and I'm connecting the +/- terminals to the factory blade terminals. The old pump appears not to have been factory and I had to remove the splice and put M terminals. Can you folks take a look at my connection and give me a progress report. I'm not entirely comfortable with the connectors being so bare like they are but I'm a novice, so what do i Know?

It's raining outside so It appears I won't be able to put this back in today. So, if you can take a look and give me any advice or suggestions I'd appreciate it.

Pics 2.0









Modified by golgo13 at 8:22 AM 7/3/2006

Modified by golgo13 at 8:35 AM 7/3/2006
Modified by golgo13 at 8:40 AM 7/3/2006

[vancouverbc]

I did a half-*** writeup on fuel pump.

zerothread?id=112047

I solder all my connections. even the spades. obviously, dont solder around the gas tank.

[golgo13]

I solder all my connections. even the spades. obviously, dont solder around the gas tank.

I was considering soldering at one point but decided to hold off. Besides, when I finally connected everything and it worked, I was happy enough. In my experience, since I'm paranoid and anal, I tend to overdo things and keep messing with things unnecessasrily only to screw it up worse.

[vancouverbc]

you should be paranoid with connectors. they are unreliable. maybe if you are good at making connections it is a different story.

[Jott5555]

Really with something as important as the fuel pump i wouldnt EVER trust anything but a properly soldered and shrink wrapped connection.. a crimp connection is NEVER ok in a gas tank full of gas.. think about it.. one lil spark from a not very wounderful connection and blammo.. so continue wiht your anal retentiveness and pull it back out and properly set up your connections..

[ricebike]

while you're pulling it out for the 2nd time to fix up those electrical connections w/ solder (it's really not that hard to do)...

... check the condition of the float bowl & arm... floating bulb intact? arm movement freely? looking @ that pic, rust may play a factor in those...

ohm-check to see resistance change on the float arm/bowl assembly is the only other verification that it's working properly on the fuel-tank side...

[golgo13]

Updated with my attempt to improve connections. Read my update on first post.

In reply to ricebike, the arm seems to move smoothly. I'm scrapping the rust off the arm right now. If you want to elaborate on ohm test for me on exactly what to do , I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the help!

[ricebike]

hey, G...

u download the free FSM yet? it may have it there...

um put the probes into the socket of the fuel tank gauge unit

* ***XX*

-------------------those 2 x's when you see the plug-------------------if arm is near bottom/empty, ohm reading should be high ~74-85middle ~27-34full ~4-6-----------------------slide that arm slowly/smoovely & see resistance changes accordingly... like testing a tps sensor too...

after u rule that out/ other hunts are towards wiring/grounds/cluster itself...

GL! & enjoy the rest of this holiday weekend...