90 Q45 Problems

[Silent Ice]

My Q45 is displaying the following alerts but I already fixed them a long while back. Its displaying: brake pads worn (they have already been replaced), tail lights inoperative or something like that (they have been fixed already). Also the driver's seat dont move or anything and the lights inside the car don't work can someone please offer me some advice on how to fix these problems.

[koolaidandQ45's]

My car is doing the same thing with the brake and tail light message, I hope that some one can help?

[texasoil]

did you replace the bulbs in the rear window brake lights?

[Silent Ice]

It might be that but if its not idk y because all of the tail lights work. I will try replacing all of the lights and see what happends. Also I am having a problem with the fuel meter it does not work at all i have to wait for the message low fuel but it dont give me a countdown from how many miles i have left it starts at 0.0 and rises. Thanks for the help.

[maxnix]

You need to read the posts about tail lights.

Use only OEM or Sylvania LL bulbs. Do not use cheap Chinese bulbs sold at 3rd party American autoretailers.

Same for pad warning light.

[goody90q45]

My Q45 is displaying the following alerts but I already fixed them a long while back. It's displaying: brake pads worn (they have already been replaced)...

When you replaced the pads you may have bought a set without the wear sensors. If you've still got the old sensors installed, or no sensor at all, you will get the brake pads warning in the odometer display. They are on the passenger side only. You can eliminate the warning by splicing the sensor's two wires together and plugging it back in (see pic). When you take this route you need to be diligent about checking your pads because the next warning you get will be grinding rotors.

.......the lights inside the car don't work can someone please offer me some advice on how to fix these problems.

Sounds like you may have a fuse burnt (or a short burning out fuses). Which interior lights are not working? Speedo cluster and overhead lights or the small lights in all the switches? If the latter check the 3rd and 4th fuse from the top in the engine compartment fuse box, the illumination circuits. Pull and check them with a voltmeter. Don't rely on your eyes. In act, check all the standard fuses in the enginne compartment and passenger compartment fuse boxes and see what you come up with.

If none of this works you're going to have to break out the voltmeter and start checking for shorts. A tedious process.

Want to make sure that when you checked all your rear bulbs (including the 3rd brake light) you also checked their mating sockets for signs of melting. A very common problem.

.....Also the driver's seat doesn't move or anything

Are none of the functions working or just the fwd/rev? If just fwd/rev pull the seat (4 bolts) and clean the tracks.

If none of this works look up Brian (Maxnix). He's your local expert.

[lino]

Use only OEM or Sylvania LL bulbs.

Are the Sylvania bulbs ok too or only the Sylvania LL?

[Q45tech]

The LL are marginally aceptable vs oem Hitachi. The standard Sylvania are a step up from Mexican Vietnamese/Chinese/ Korean bulbs.

The cold inrush current* vs operating current.............unfortunately the engineers like most people falsely assumed that equal number bulbs were all equal to the the Hitachi used in design and testing.

Something they learned was not true and did the redesign in 1994..........the newer single bulb draws HALF the 90-93 current so the sensor and sockets and plugs and wiring last better now.

I use nothing but Sylvania LL but change them annually.............just a maintenance habit and part of May check list.

* Inrush current can be 12-20 times operating current depenting on bulb temperature..................consider the resistance of tungsten at 32F vs operating.

"This means that a 5% reduction in operating voltage will more than double the life of the bulb, at the expense of reducing its light output by about 20%. This may be a very acceptable trade off for a light bulb that is a difficult-to-access location (for example, traffic lights or fixtures hung from high ceilings). So-called "long-life" bulbs are simply bulbs that take advantage of this trade off.".......................LL means resistance is 5% higher than conventional.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I...etime

[Black stallion]

As far as your fuel gauge, I had the same problem when I bought my car. I don't know how patient or mechanically inclined you are, but in my case I removed the instrument cluster (starting from the center console and working your way around).

I removed the fuel gauge itself and moistenedthe needle with some fine instrument oil and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

Believe it or not the dealer wanted to "trouble shoot" starting with the fuel pump and sending unit to the tune of about 700 plus dollars.

Nothing beats a free fix!

[carfrk666]

ive had similar problems, one thing ive done with the tail lights was take out the whole bulb assembly and remove some of the wires and put them back in, the ground wires are screwed together into the block along with some other wires, thats how they connected them, i re-did them on my blocks and the message went away forever, try that on all of them, wiggle the bulb around and just make sure u get a better connection, as far as your fuel gauge, when i first owned the car it sat for a very long time and i drove it around a bit and noticed the gauge was way off, after time it had just gotten better because the gas was sloshing around and makeing the sensor work by actualy being used. . try some of that and let us know