90 Non-Turbo lifters, oil pressure, and price

[syphon0202]

I am thinking of buying a 1990 300zx Non-Turbo. The guy is trying to sell at $3500 because the car has a short shifter and stage 2 clutch, but hopefully I will be able to get it for cheaper. Anyways, he has told me that there is "no lifter sound until it's warm" and that the car runs at "60 lbs oil pressure all the time, 80 at first crank." He said all that the car needs is valve adjustment.

Just a couple questions:
1) Is it likely that the car just needs valve adjustments? If so, how much would that cost? If not, what is likely wrong and how much would that cost to fix?

2) Does that oil pressure seem right? I do not know the expected oil pressure for a 300zx.

3) Is that a good price to get the car at?

I have spent the past week trying to learn more about this car and forums always seem to be the best way to go. Thanks for any help you can offer.

[Z31toZ32]

greetings and welcome here to nico.

1.) the lifter tick is very common with the higher mileage zs. it really isn't a big deal, but is annoying. you could try a few bandaide fixes such as running a thicker oil, seafoam, or a quart of ATF in the oil for a few miles, but they dont get to the root of the problem which would require taking them apart and cleaning them. there is a writeup somewhere.

2.) the oil pressure seems a bit on the high side, but the oil pressure sending unit also isn't the most reliable in its age (although usually it reads lower). ballpark is 10-15 idle, 30 in town, 45 on the highway, and 60+ when cold. how thick of oil is he running?

3.) cant really tell what it is worth given your description. some things to look for are a recent timing belt (cost $1200 w/ labor), and fuel injectors replaced for the 90-93 models (another $1200). the short throw shifter wont add any value and a new clutch will add next to no value (but decent piece of mind) post up some pictures, and mileage would help too.

[syphon0202]

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/2194446617.html
That is the one I am looking at. It is at 152,000 miles. I am going to look at it Friday, so hopefully I will be able to ask him more about it then. I will also give him a call tomorrow to ask about the oil, the timing belt, and the fuel injectors. Thanks for your input.

[syphon0202]

UPDATE*

He just told me what oil he is running through it. He said "I run mobil one 2ow 5o synthetic and redline gear oil." He kinda sucks at texting...

[robomatic12]

That oil is too thick at startup and even too thick at running temperature. Not too sure on your climate but I would stick with a 5w30 rated motor oil.

[syphon0202]

Alright, if I decide to get this one I will change the oil right away. As for climate, I live in South Carolina, so it gets pretty humid here, never gets too cold.

Also, just a couple random statements from across the internet.

"The thicker the oil the more ticking on my lifters" -Project z32. Could the same be true for this car?

and, more importantly,

"if you want to fix a lifter tick, do a proper oil change and substitute 1 quart of oil for transmission fluid... it should quiet up within no time. If not this engine cleaning stuff will probably work too." -Posted by tq on these forums. Is this a good idea to try out?

[marty1mc]

Alright, if I decide to get this one I will change the oil right away. As for climate, I live in South Carolina, so it gets pretty humid here, never gets too cold.

Also, just a couple random statements from across the internet.

"The thicker the oil the more ticking on my lifters" -Project z32. Could the same be true for this car?

and, more importantly,

"if you want to fix a lifter tick, do a proper oil change and substitute 1 quart of oil for transmission fluid... it should quiet up within no time. If not this engine cleaning stuff will probably work too." -Posted by tq on these forums. Is this a good idea to try out?

The proper way to fix these is to remove them and either rebuild or replace. Replacement is expensive since each cost around $35 and there are 24 of them. I wouldn't put transmission fluid or any additive into my oil. The effect is to thin the oil and maybe get some into the clogged holes of the hydraulic lifter. The thinning also affects every area where the oil flows. It reduces the shear strength of the oil as well. That means you are also flowing substandard oil into your crank and in between the crank and the bearings where it can do some real damage.

[syphon0202]

Well, I wasn't planning on running on that for a long time. I was going to drive the car easily for about 50 miles or so then replace it with just oil. The other easy option is to use the "Extreme Clean Engine Flush" from z1
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=2476

In the end I plan to replace them or rebuild them myself, but I am going to have to save up before that. I am likely going to have to replace the timing belt as soon as I get the car, as well as do an oil change right away. I am but a poor college kid, haha.

[Z31toZ32]

^ idk man. if i was looking for a car, id look for one that is as close to mechanically perfect that my budget would allow, and not one that already has problems that aren't exactly a 5 minute fix. rebuilding those things is a big job, and the car itself doesn't look too clean. personally, id take a pass on it.

[syphon0202]

I went to look at the car yesterday, and it was in pieces. Previous owner had used it for drag racing, the interior was all torn out, drivers seat had lots of tears in it. The lifters were ticking like he said, but the engine itself didn't seem like it was in good condition. It was supposedly rebuilt 50,000 miles ago, but whoever rebuilt it rebored the engine and I think they screwed up. In any case, I am going to look at two different ones next weekend, I will start a thread about it in the appropriate place. Thanks for your help.