90 Nissan Truck Won't Start

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Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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I've got a 90 nissan hardbody with the 4cyl KA motor. Won't start.Here's the history 177,000. After I put in a new alt. I took off and it started to ger hot not boiling just to the hot line, drove 8 miles back home where it stalled. Took couple of hours to restart.When it did it started and idled but give it any gas and it started surging. Now it won't start at all. I read the codes on the computer and it said the engine temp. sensor was bad, changed that, new wires,rotor and cap, also a new air flow meter, new fuselinks, relays fucntion ok, also a new computor, there's spark at the plugs,fuel pressure at the injectors, would the fuel pressure regulator keep it from starting or the BPT valve or the EGR. Any info is greatly appreciated............


Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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Changed the fuel regulator still won't start. I've got power at the injectors. When it got hot is there something that is affected that would keep it from starting. Can the Swirl Control Actuator cause it not to start? Is there something in the ignition coil that will give spark but it won't start. IS there one single thing that goes out slowly and causes it to surge. It's been sitting for 2 months I need help. Gremlins?

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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get a noid light and see if the computer is pulsing the injectors. most part stores dont carry nissan specific noid lights. but a gm one will work. plug it into an injector harness and crank it to see if it flashes.

Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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I used a test light is this ok. Test light did not pulse but it stayed on while cranking. It tried to start but one little burp at the b eginning of cranking and that was it. Do i need to get a nod light I messed with the SCV actuator this morning and it started acting like it was going to start but then back to just crankingThanks for the info. This is getting personal. I want to fix this myself with your help. Thank You very much

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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um never use a test light on ecm ciruits. there is not enough resistance to protect the ecm from the high amps. try a noid light and hope you didnt fry the drivers for the injectors.

Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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Thanks for the info i got a noid lite and all injectors are firing. Pulled the fuel line off and pumped out about half a gallon. hooked it back up and it started but sputtered, got a bad fuel leak at the injectors. I'll fix that and we'll see if its fixed Maybe air in fuel line or bad fuel pump? Thanks

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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is the fuel leak external? I wouldnt say you have a bad fuel pump since you got a half a gallon out of the line disconected. after you fix the leak if it still doesnt start right try holding the gas pedal about 1/3 of the way down and try starting it. maybe you have a bad coolant temp sensor telling the ecm it is colder then it really is and its running it to rich.

Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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I poked a hole in the rubber on one injector. I checked a one wire temp sensor on the water intake at the thermostat there's two sensors there one with a connector like the injectors and another with just one wire con. the one wire is blinking when checked with a test lite with key on. Hope to have rubbers in tomorrow.OU 65 Texas 13 OUCH

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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the 2 wire one is your ecm input the single wire is your cluster gauge sender. you need to use an ohm meter to test it. not sure of the exact specs off the top of my head but FSM will have them as well as the FAQ's have general specs on coolant temp readings.

Shack55
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:36 am

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Sorry for the delay Had to go work. Got it started after i fixed the fuel leak but it has a miss and surging problem, after it starts it idles ok and with a little peddle it's ok but give it 1/4 or more and it starts to surge. Could it be a valve problem? I took off the cover and every thing seems to be ok, no springs broke, all moving. could it be the ox. sensor? Unplugged it and no change.This is the original problem after it got hot . I've replaced air flow meter,engine temp sensor,fuel pressure regulator,wires ,rotor,dist.cap, computer gives no codes faulty, checks ok.also replaced eccm unit under seat. Bafflededededed Thanks for any suggestions, IC unit or is there a secondary unit problem


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