Okay guys...This is our best package that we will find available for our Q's. I spoke with Sherwin at Brake Zone 818-781-7777, who is a Wilwood dealer and he just got done designing a custom brake package for another Q45 owner and will be installing it next week. They designed the braking system specifically for the Q45 and are aware about the agressive rear braking used by the Q45 so there is no need for a proportioning valve.
Below are the specs on the brake package.
6 piston front Wilwood calipers4 piston rear Wilwood calipers14.25" front & rear cross drilled & slotted vented rotors (front & back)32mm thickness both front & backE-Brake compatible (which is a feature that many upgrades exclude)ABS compatiblePadsSS LinesBrackets - these are not custom machined brackets, they already fit our cars withuot any adjustments
It includes everything except brake fluid and is a plug & play system.
The cost is about $1,800 per axle.
Below is a link to a slide show with a very similar package that we will be getting for the 350Z and M3. I know the cost is up there, but look at what you are getting for brake package compared to what else is out there for the monies. I am really interested in this upgrade and will most likely do it in May or June as I need to make sure all my other mods are working correctly on my car first. Please feel free to call Sherwin yourself to ask him any questions you may have. The above package assumes 18" wheels. He also 4 pistion front brake upgarde but I did not ask many question about that system as the said the caliper design was actually wider than the 6 piston design and therefore the 6 pistion set up would provide more clearance. I am almost postive that this is what he said that the 4 piston had less clearance than the 6 piston as he said the 6 pistion would be a better design for me with 18" wheels. He will make sure that your wheel & brake combo work together as he looked up my wheels to make sure about the clearence.
http://www.imagestation.com/al...nvite
90-96 Q45 Big Brake Upgrade
Y E S!
Great job RSI.. I can't believe someone else with a Q45, just blazed the trail for us. Probably not even a nico member!! Whoever it is, thanks..
Looks like I may need to strip the skyline brake upgrade off of my car...
Looks like I may never have any spending money again either...
Carbon fibre driveshaft18 inch wheels/tiresWilwood big brake upgrade
Great job RSI.. I can't believe someone else with a Q45, just blazed the trail for us. Probably not even a nico member!! Whoever it is, thanks..
Looks like I may need to strip the skyline brake upgrade off of my car...
Looks like I may never have any spending money again either...
Carbon fibre driveshaft18 inch wheels/tiresWilwood big brake upgrade
yeah...I am going to ask Sherwin who this guy is and ask him to tell the Q45 guy about us NICO guys as I am sure that if he is spending $1,800 on brakes that he would be looking for additional mods as well. Got to do the recruit trip for new NICO member, especially one of our own...A Q45 Guy. Maybe he as resources for mods and the like that we don't even know about.
I don't know if he has done a M45 yet. I know that he is installing the brakes on the Q45 today and will email pics to me to post. Unfortunately....I can really hear my front pads wearing thin under a highspeed braking so I need brakes which will put some other mods on hold. With this type of braking force, I will probably send my self through the windshield if I stomp on the brakes.
maxnix...you see here now what I stated above was way to express my thoughts on what these brakes will do on my car....I do not need nor appreciate your comments on the true forces of mother nature and I think you forgot about something. Q45tech said that the Q uses some of the most aggressive rear braking in the industry....therefore I would need slicks on the back as well to fully feel the effects of the coefficient of friction. I don't really know you maxnix...but please try to hold back from posting your smart comments directly towards me...and yes I understand that everyone has a right to express there thoughts, but for the sake of things between you and me I would like continue to have a nuetral postion with you....thanks
Here is Sherwins email address. [email protected]
He is located in California and I am sure that we can get you black calipers.
He is located in California and I am sure that we can get you black calipers.
Here are the pics of the Q with the big brakes on them. He did the front & rears. This guy who owns the Q already has the exhaust, intake, ECU, rearend, suspension mods, and a couple of other things. The last thing he needed was the brakes. They are on 18" wheels. The just installed these today. This is the 6 pistion front & 4 piston rear and there was plenty of clearance between the calipers and the rims using 18" wheels.
I did not go for a ride....these pics were taken by Sherwin who works at Brake World in California. Maybe he is not too far from you as I see you are in Cali also. I live in Miami and found Sherwin through the internet while I was looking for somebody who could do a brake upgarde for us. Sherwins phone number is posted at the top....give him a call if you like. He has a nicely modded S2000.
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szh
- Posts: 15932
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Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
rsiwicki wrote:I did not go for a ride....these pics were taken by Sherwin who works at Brake World in California. Maybe he is not too far from you as I see you are in Cali also.
I think it is Brake Zone in Van Nuys, CA (near Los Angeles). I have not yet called Sherwin but will do so sometime soon ...
Z
Good luck, my friend 
This is the gold standard of braking upgrades... Whoever this Q45 owner, has my thanks.. He needs to get on nico..
You mentioned he had "exhaust" done... Any idea, what exhaust he is using?
Everytime I look at those pics, I drool. The Q looks SO much better when it has big wheels/tires filling the massive gap the stock wheels/tires have. On top of it all you're getting a huge boost in braking power.. Better looking/better braking..
Awesome
This is the gold standard of braking upgrades... Whoever this Q45 owner, has my thanks.. He needs to get on nico..
You mentioned he had "exhaust" done... Any idea, what exhaust he is using?
Everytime I look at those pics, I drool. The Q looks SO much better when it has big wheels/tires filling the massive gap the stock wheels/tires have. On top of it all you're getting a huge boost in braking power.. Better looking/better braking..
Awesome
Unfortunately....I don't think that this Q owner is interested in NICO, but I maybe wrong though. He is a car buff guy and apparently has a nice collection of cars according to Sherwin. I will try to find out more info on who the Q owner is and at least to try to get this guy to check out our website.
$1,800 per axle, is quite a bargin..
Goto stillen.com and look at the brembo big brake upgrade for the Q45.. It's $2,500 for the FRONT AXLE only... Not to mention the rotors arn't as thick or big, and they are only 4 calipers..
This is the first true big brake upgrade for the Q45.. If you have some sort of problem with it, that is fine. BTW I like my car, and i feel it is on par with newer cars, that are more expensive and higher stock performance. There are people here who drive their Q, to the absolute limits.. For those people, this kit makes sense..
While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years so called racers have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them. Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many wanna be "Racers" believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.
A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.
Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger. (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.
Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out. For a real world example, look at "real race" cars. Mainly, road race cars such as Trans Am, IMSA, and CART will exclusively run slotted rotors with very aggressive pads. While many teams have their particular love of brand, they all have the same basic function. One must also realize that when operating a performance system, there will be a trade off in the system some where. Generally performance street systems are designed to compromise the pads life with added braking ability. By doing this, one can expect certain "better" braking while not sacrificing the life of the rotor.
As you move up in pad compound, you must realize that it takes more heat to get these brakes working at optimum standards. The trade off here is accelerated rotor wear.(Here's were combination playing can pay off / or not). Ideally, you would want to run a new pad on a used rotor and vise versa when seating new components. Depending on the track conditions and characteristics of the particular car, bypass stagger (brake ballast) in conjunction with pad and rotor combo can be the deciding factor in longevity and performance.
For most import and domestic applications, there should be little more than a need for basic cross drilled or slotted rotors with carbon based pads and steel braided lines. Not all big brake kits are practical for each application. They may not even be available for your car or truck. The last important factor is to take into consideration is driver charctoristic's. Late braker's will generate more heat cycles than a "two footed" driver. The dreaded "two foot" driver will just eat brakes period.
Goto stillen.com and look at the brembo big brake upgrade for the Q45.. It's $2,500 for the FRONT AXLE only... Not to mention the rotors arn't as thick or big, and they are only 4 calipers..
This is the first true big brake upgrade for the Q45.. If you have some sort of problem with it, that is fine. BTW I like my car, and i feel it is on par with newer cars, that are more expensive and higher stock performance. There are people here who drive their Q, to the absolute limits.. For those people, this kit makes sense..
While there are many rumors and home made theories about the benefits of different rotors, lets try to dispel them and deliver some facts. Cross drilled rotors have long been the subject of ridicule and blame. For years so called racers have been blaming poor old cross drilled rotors for failures that were not directly related to them. Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many wanna be "Racers" believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.
A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.
Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger. (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.
Slotting the rotors is generally intended to pick up where cross drilled rotors leave off. They tend to have a higher thresh hold to heat there for enabling the brakes to function at much higher temperatures. By slotting the rotors you create "sweep" for the pads. At high temps cross drilling becomes non effective. Rotors can't pull air through after extreme temps. The rotor actually becomes a heat sink. As the cross drills become non effective, the slots can sweep the gas pocket out. For a real world example, look at "real race" cars. Mainly, road race cars such as Trans Am, IMSA, and CART will exclusively run slotted rotors with very aggressive pads. While many teams have their particular love of brand, they all have the same basic function. One must also realize that when operating a performance system, there will be a trade off in the system some where. Generally performance street systems are designed to compromise the pads life with added braking ability. By doing this, one can expect certain "better" braking while not sacrificing the life of the rotor.
As you move up in pad compound, you must realize that it takes more heat to get these brakes working at optimum standards. The trade off here is accelerated rotor wear.(Here's were combination playing can pay off / or not). Ideally, you would want to run a new pad on a used rotor and vise versa when seating new components. Depending on the track conditions and characteristics of the particular car, bypass stagger (brake ballast) in conjunction with pad and rotor combo can be the deciding factor in longevity and performance.
For most import and domestic applications, there should be little more than a need for basic cross drilled or slotted rotors with carbon based pads and steel braided lines. Not all big brake kits are practical for each application. They may not even be available for your car or truck. The last important factor is to take into consideration is driver charctoristic's. Late braker's will generate more heat cycles than a "two footed" driver. The dreaded "two foot" driver will just eat brakes period.
When I drive on the track, I drive aggressive.
I use the absolute most threshold braking I can, and alot of trail braking.. When you have a two ton+ car hurdling down the track, you need all the stopping power you can get...
The more stopping power you have, the deeper you can go into corners..
Braking is as important, as acceleration is.
People track all kinds of cars.. From the tiny rice rocket econoboxes, to huge two ton sedans.. Driving on the track, is all about having fun, and experiencing your cars limits, no matter what your car is.
The stock brakes are sincerely lacking, in almost every case IMO.. I live in AZ, drive hard, between these two they are a lethal combo on the brakes.
People continue to push the Q45 performance. If it wern't for people wanting to push their cars harder and harder, nothing would ever be accomplished.
I use the absolute most threshold braking I can, and alot of trail braking.. When you have a two ton+ car hurdling down the track, you need all the stopping power you can get...
The more stopping power you have, the deeper you can go into corners..
Braking is as important, as acceleration is.
People track all kinds of cars.. From the tiny rice rocket econoboxes, to huge two ton sedans.. Driving on the track, is all about having fun, and experiencing your cars limits, no matter what your car is.
The stock brakes are sincerely lacking, in almost every case IMO.. I live in AZ, drive hard, between these two they are a lethal combo on the brakes.
People continue to push the Q45 performance. If it wern't for people wanting to push their cars harder and harder, nothing would ever be accomplished.
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AZhitman
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All behold the awesome power of the "report post" button....
Let's leave it at this: If there's anyone here who can swing $3600 for brakes, then let's sit back, relax and wait for them to buy/install, and hear what they have to say about them.
Trying to interject opinion in these matters is like telling a kid that candy will rot their teeth - WHO CARES, right?
I would hazard a guess that we won't see these on a Q for a long time, but hey, I've been wrong before - maybe someone will make me eat my words.
Fair enough?
Back to the brakes. And nothing else.
Let's leave it at this: If there's anyone here who can swing $3600 for brakes, then let's sit back, relax and wait for them to buy/install, and hear what they have to say about them.
Trying to interject opinion in these matters is like telling a kid that candy will rot their teeth - WHO CARES, right?
I would hazard a guess that we won't see these on a Q for a long time, but hey, I've been wrong before - maybe someone will make me eat my words.
Fair enough?
Back to the brakes. And nothing else.